I make mine clutch alingment tools in the lathe.
You dont need the splines on them, just snug
fitting inside the splines

With two disks in there you need the splines 

Quote from: Phil Brown on March 28, 2019, 12:54:20 PM

Not trying to highjack a thread
But how do you kill the cam bearings without hurting the crank and rods in a non- sideoiler ? I only ask because I saw this happen recently to a 428, and yes the bearings were installed correctly. No reason they just looked as they stopped getting oil

Very possible. I have seen it first hand. Some blocks the oil groove is not machined center in the saddle. If the bearing is installed so it is centered in the saddle, it can block the oil feed hole in the bearing to the cam and the oil will still make its way to the crank/rods as it normally would around the back of the cam bearing.

Here is a pic of my block where you can see how far off center the annular groove was machined. I fixed it by using a small ball end carbide burr and creating a little channel under where I want the oil hole to end up:

Interesting find on your block and that could answer a lot of questions, thanks for sharing

If I'm not mistaken in Calif.with the PVC, the other valve cover has to be vented to the air cleaner. It can not be an open breather.

To me the 5 or 6 qts. Of Brad Penn is a lot cheaper than the cam and lifters
I know what you're saying, but why take any chance when in the end it's not really that much money

Phil isn't using the universal arm, those are dual 660 center squirters.
Cool, but hardly the best choice on the street.

  True, but the carbs have had a lot of work before I got them and they do have respectable street manners. BUT it's NOT a car to drive every day between it's high compression, C8AX-D cam and the 4:11 r&p  in the back (being a 3 pedal car probably helps with the drivability) But it IS a fun car to drive. that's why I said "for what it is"
  HTM101, also very nice setup
  Run the Ford linkage to the front carb then make a new linkage to go carb to carb, easy to try and it'll ether work better or not. If not just change it back

X2 on the tape, been doing it that way for years

I am having a set of Pauter rods made for my 427 build. Picture is one of a set I had made for some one in Europe.

Rods are made here in San Diego CA, on my build, I am going for original or US made parts

Kinda hard to tighten the bolts when there made like that though (unless its a VW motor :-) )