As the title says the car is a 64 Galaxie 500 XL fastback. It was was running and driving this spring. Title is clear and in my name. Interior is original and in mostly usable shape, needs carpet and headliner, new headliner included. I have all of the correct trim, it needs cleaned and installed. Glass is all there, no cracks. Newer shocks and tires. One of the previous owners did some shotty bodywork, and it has rust on the frame. Comes with the original 352/auto. I would consider this a serious project, or parts car. $2500

410 FE engine, internal balance, C4AE-G heads with 2.03 valves, Crower solid cam, Smith bros pushrods, 427LR rockers, 428PI intake, Duraspark ignition, Summit 750 carb, chrome pentroof covers, older coated tri-y headers, RobbMC starter. Engine has been started, and cam broke in. Right head gasket blew, engine did not overheat. Will need decked. $2000

Rebuilt C6. Work was done by Fountain transmission in Iowa City. He is an old FE guy and has a stellar reputation, receipt for work provided. Completely gone through, mild shift kit, floor shift lever installed. Comes with Hughes 3000rpm converter. Never installed, stored in my climate controlled dining room, ask my wife. $900

28 spline 9” Richmond Powertrax differential, 3.50 gears, with install kit. All new parts in original boxes. $500

Lots of other parts to go with car or motor.

Family health situation forces sale. I will make a really good deal if somebody wants it all. I will ship, help load, etc. Located in Iowa. Nandoz66@gmail.com or (three one 9) three three one - four five 75

I got the 416 in the car and fired it up yesterday. I had my kid running the gas and watching gauges, while I watched the engine for troubles. After about 10 minutes I noticed the right side header glowing on the rear cylinders. I looked at the left side, it looked normal. Using the IR temp gun, the left is showing about 325-350F, the right is showing the same on #1. Cylinders #2,3,4 are showing 875-900F. I was running 16 degrees initial timing, with the vacuum advance disconnected. The only things I can think of that would cause this are; exhaust valves not closing, vacuum leak on these cylinders, or an obstruction in the exhaust. I am leaning toward the intake gasket as the culprit. I primed the oil pump before start up, and checked the valves. I am darn sure that none of the adjusters is too tight. The  carb ran super rich of the box, so I re jetted it to 72 primary and 74 secondary. The headers and ignition are from the prior motor, and worked fine before. Any thoughts?
Here is my setup:
.030 390 block, C1AE heads, PI intake, Summit 750 carb, Crower solid lifter cam, 427LR rockers, parts store Duraspark ignition.

I have a 428PI intake that has a small threaded port on the back of the carb pad. I removed a plug/set screw from it and measured the threads. I came up with 3/8-24. The port has two small holes in the top of the plenum. I want use this for my pcv vacuum. It is not 1/8 npt, so no luck finding a fitting.

Since it's still freezing cold here, I am penciling out some math on my build. I'm trying to nail down a torque converter. The way I figure with a 28" tire and 3.50 gears I should be turning 2300 rpm+/- at 55mph. My cam is advertised as 2250-6000rpm. The question is: should I be looking at 2500-2600 stall speeds or 2000-2400. Maybe it's splitting hairs on a street car, but my budget is tight, so I want to get this right the first time. Also I don't want to be driving to work with the converter slipping the whole way. Where I live all of the roads are 55mph speed limit, so I am using that as my baseline.

I recently purchased a PI intake from a member here, for use on my 416. Greg was a real pleasure to deal with, by the way. I want to run no hole "THUNDERBIRD" valve covers from my original engine. The intake has a rear PCV provision, and a flat spot behind the thermostat for an oil fill tube. My concerns are these: If I have a hole cut for the fill tube, should I also port match to the heads? My combo is a .030 over 410, Crower solid lifter cam #16356 (228 @ .50 .520ish valve lift 114 LSA),C1AE heads with 2.03 valves. I'm not sure the gain from port matching would be worth cutting up a nice old intake. My other question is would the old fill tube breather and rear PCV be sufficient in a street car? I have done quite a bit of reading on PCV systems, but my experience with the 460 in my truck goes against everything I read.

I have a 1967 Galaxie 500 with a built 428. I am running a redone C6 with a TCI streetfighter converter. The tranny came from a truck, so it has a lower gear set. My car came from the factory with a 3.00:1 open 9". I need some opinions on a rear end setup. I plan to (have to) use the stock axle housing, drive shaft, and suspension (3 link). I am on an air tight budget, so I don't want to make mistakes. The car is mostly street driven, but I plan on running it at the track. It currently sits on 235/60/15 BFG TA's. I have been thinking about going to a taller and wider tire. What would you recommend for durability in a locker? Gear ratio? tire size? etc. Thanks in advance.