My 427 SOHC Build..... Finally the time has come!

[Drew Pojedinec]

Not headers, but I've done exhaust with just mandrel bends, a chop saw and a mig machine.
Sure, it wasn't as pretty as a pro, but that is why they sell die grinders and carbide burs.....

[ScotiaFE]

Have to disagree with you on the band saw v chop saw.
In my small shed I have a really old King 93 x 3/4 band saw with a good coolant pump and I can get that thing to
chop just about anything nice and square.
The chop saw just creates grinding dust and sparks which by the way is one of the major reasons
why guys burn their garages down.
 

[NewFalconOwner]

i built my headers myself,, spent about 200 in 1-7/8" u and j bends and a pair of collectors,  and pieced it all together. used a chop saw, tuck tape and grinder..

[My427stang]

All the tools are good, more are better

However, not all chop saws will flood your garage with sparks, just like all band saws aren't liquid cooled!  Mine has a bag that catches most of it

Regardless, anything that cuts straight works.  Including a guy who knows how to use a hacksaw, but I really like my 14 inch chop with miter deck for quick exhaust cuts.  Band saw would work too, but not sure how much it costs for a decent one, I assume when you go from wood to metal and need room for 2-3 inch pipes, things get expensive.

I will say though, talking about fire is extremely important.  My family lost a 16 bay garage in the late 80s, I was in high school and personally lost a 71 GTO clone that was ready for paint, but my father lost his business for a few years.  Aluminum tools were literally melted in the tool boxes, our 68 F100 4x4 sunk in the pit, axle housing literally folded into the pit from the heat.  We'll never know exactly what started it, but the day prior we had an employee extending the frame to install an oil tank on a dump truck chassis.  Lot's of grinding and welding, so we assume that is what happened.  I don't even let Yankee Candles stay unattended anymore...better be careful, especially those in small garages

[babybolt]

When I was much younger I built a set of tri-y headers using only a hacksaw, tubing cutter, small benchtop grinder and a gas welding setup - using a two sets of cutup aftermarket headers and some bends from JC Whitney. 

Several years ago a guy who does great work in Michigan gave me a quote of $1200 for custom made headers, $1500 for stainless.  And not much more to finish the system to the back of the car.  He had just finished a set for a real SOHC drag car.

[cobracammer]

Thanks everyone.  I definitely agree that a clean cut (joint) will make all the difference.  I did have one question..... and I'm not sure if this is common knowledge of not.  Since I am going to be taking these header tubes on the car as I go, does the car have to be sitting on it rubber tires (due to the electric current from the welder?)  or is leaving it on Jack stands ok?  I wasn't sure if the Jack stands would ground out the car.....  I have an idea how a MIG welder works, but wasn't sure about welding on the car while on stands (given all of the electric components on this thing).

Any advice?

Thanks

[jayb]

You can weld with the car on jackstands.  The current from the welder will flow from the torch to the ground clamp of the welder.  I'd recommend disconnecting the battery cables, and putting the ground clamp of the welder close to the spot you are welding.  Other than that, you should be just fine.

[cobracammer]

Perfect!  The battery has been totally removed and I will clamp the ground from the welder to the metal tube I am tacking.  Getting excited.  Was able to torque the transmission with the correct bolts and washers to 35 ft lbs as well as torque the trans cross member to 46 ft lbs (as directed by Tremec) and the transmission to the cross member at 45 ft lbs (as directed by tremec).

I can also now measure for the driveshaft and get that ordered, but I need to get the car lowered onto all 4 wheels, while still keeping it up high enough for me to slide under it and measure.  Saleen has about 2" of ground clearance with the body kits when they are sitting on their wheels. 

[Drew Pojedinec]

jacks under the front and two jacks under the rear end is sufficient for measuring a driveshaft.  Lil trickier getting the angles perfect later, but worry about that later.

Scotia,
We all weld, grind, chop etc in our garages.  Any of these things can easily start a fire.  Using a bandsaw with a coolant pump isn't an alternative to following fire prevention procedure.

[cobracammer]

OK I just printed out the Drive shaft measurement/Order form.  Will be getting the measurements for the order this weekend.  Also just purchased the fuel hat for a return line system.  This product is made by "Division X" and I consider myself lucky.  From what it seems, none of these newer mustangs are built with a fuel return option EFI.  So there is no such thing as a return port on a OEM fuel hat.  Luckily this company makes a direct replacement and even the wiring harness to ensure it works well with the ECM and gauges.  Now I can go from the Tank....to the EFI, to the regulator, and then back to the tank....  plus it comes with 2 fuel pumps good up to 1000 HP.  Pictured below:

[manofmerc]

Cobra cammer if you don't have much welding experience now after building these headers you will !You need a mig welder .You might as well get yourself a smaller 220 volt name brand welding machine that uses a bottle of gas instead of flux core wire.Flux core wire has its place but isn't as pretty as standard wire with gas .As far as cutting tubing a chop saw will make a clean straight cut every time very useful for other projects too.I recently did a roll bar for a buddy of mine .I bought myself a big tubing cutter it is a Rigid brand like pipe fitters use .I bought mine from a junk store it is another good way to cut and trim tubing .If I were you I would fit and tack your header pieces together get the whole thing tacked together and find a welder to weld this for you .Welding thin tubing together that has some gaps is hard for a professional welder much less a novice .This will save you mucho frustration and time .As far as safety and sparks in the garage .Whenever I use my chop saw I do it outside .I set up in front of my building and throw the sparks on the concrete .I also don't store gasoline or paint thinner in my building .And try to keep the floor clear of shop rags and paper towels .I am scared to death of fire one reason I have a steel building .I wish you were closer Cobra Cammer I would love to help you with this .I bought myself a nice used tig welder recently and it does a really good job .Good luck with your project .Doug welding for 38 years

[cobracammer]

Thanks. I have a mig welder that uses argon and co2 mix. In other news, Dad came down today and helped me get the transmission lock out module wired in. This module prevents you from shifting into reverse instead of "6th" gear since they are close in the shifting pattern. Also got all of my measurements for the driveshaft order, so sending in the order form on monday. 6061 aluminum shaft 3.5" diameter. Now i will focus on the headers!

More to come

[cobracammer]

OK Driveshaft is Ordered!!!  My buddy Paul over there says it takes about 1 week to make and then it will ship.

In other news, the Division X fuel hat (and twin fuel pumps) arrive tomorrow....  The guys called me and said they would give back my 3 day delivery fee since they are located in West Palm Beach (like 45 minutes from me).  LOL  I didn't know they were that close.

Anyway, fun stuff!

[cobracammer]

OK, the Division X return style fuel hat (Pictured above) arrived yesterday.  I must say its a solid (Billet) piece and feels quite sturdy.  Also in my box-O-Goodies was twin fuel pumps (Walbro GSS342's that can pump 255 Lph each)  and the harness to ensure it all plays nice with the Saleens OEM ECU.  Now, the Fuel hat has a -10AN outlet and a -8AN inlet.  At the end of each of these 90 degree fittings are Male threads with a Flare (37 degrees).  I had to separately purchase the fittings with the 3/8" hose barb to run my fuel hoses.  -8AN fitting (female with flare- to 3/8" hose barb) was easy and picked it up on Jegs.  However, NO ONE sells a -10 AN fitting (Female with flare- to 3/8 in hose barb).  Finally after about 2 hours of trying my luck at multiple places, I decided to purchase a reducer to go from -10 AN to Male -8AN with flare.  Then purchased a second -8AN fitting (female with flare- to 3/8" hose barb).  I wasn't sure what this was going to screw up, so I made a call to a tech at Jegs.  He seemed knowledgeable (at least more knowledgeable that I am in this ) and we "Chatted" a bit.  I explained to him that I want to run 3/8" fuel hose through out the whole system  (to and from the EFI).  I asked him if there would be any negative effect since I am running the -10AN outlet through -8AN (I was assuming they made the outlet -10 AN for a reason.  He explained (and anyone here can jump in if this is incorrect) that there is a large difference in LPH between 3/8 hose (which he said is about -6AN?) and the -10 AN (which he said is about 5/8"?)  however, this difference would only become a problem if I were running super high horsepower (like over 1,000 HP) and said for my purposes, it should be fine.

I also picked up a FAST in line fuel filter.  So now, the progression will be from the New Division X fuel hat, I will run 3/8" hose from the -8AN barb to a -6AN fitting(with 3/8" Barb) the -6AN fitting screws into the FAST inline fuel filter and another -6AN fitting with 3/8" barb off of that.  From that barb run the 3/8" hose to the 8AN fitting with 3/8" bard on the first throttle body.  The throttle bodies came with their own hoses and fittings to link them together.  Then I run 3/8" hose from the 2nd throttle body barb to the FAST Fuel pressure regulator.  Out the bottom of the fuel pressure regulator, run 3/8" hose all the way back through the same channel (Saleen has this channel down the drivers side where the fuel lines run and there is a flat plastic cover to keep everything covered......  really convenient) back to the inlet 3/8" bard on the fuel hat.  Now the car has a Canister Purge valve up front in the engine bay on the driver side wheel well.  I believe this runs to a separate location on the fuel tank (Saleen has a saddle style fuel tank).  I will have to leave this in place and reconnect the harness plug since it allows you to fill up the gas tanks all the way to full.  Without it, I was told there would be a headache of problems associated with filling up the car with gas.  Also the FAST EFI system says that the fuel tank must be vented, and I believe this is the vent.

As you can tell, I am stalling on the headers because the thought is daunting, but once the fuel system is in place, there is nothing left (aside from troubleshooting during first start up).... So eventually I am going to have to do the headers.  Wish I had handy neighbors who were into cars/welding.  LOL

[KMcCullah]

I've had a recent "snafu" with the evaporative emissions system on my 2006 Fusion. Maybe the system is similar to your Saleen. My vapor canister is mounted to the bottom of the spare tire well. I hit something that cracked the canister. This caused a vacuum leak in the evaporative emission system that made the ECU set the CEL light. I started out with pulling the codes. Which translated to the gas cap being loose. Replaced the cap and reset the ECU. CEL came back on a few days later. Did some studying and decided the canister purge valve must be bad. Replace the valve and reset the ECU. CEL was back on a few days later. Checked all the hard plastic lines for cracks and loose fittings. Finally found the crack in the vacuum canister and replaced the canister. No CEL light for 8 months now.

 I'm thinking your ECU is going to be mad if you don't supply enough vacuum to the canister purge valve. The ECU will think your gas cap is loose and set the CEL light. You might have to locate the vacuum sensor and wire in some kind of fancy electrical fibbing device to fool the ECU. Mr Jay is an electrical whiz, maybe he can expand on this...