So then, Brent, you do not care what the coil bind clearance is, right?
You'll run a spring .25 off coil blind or .000 clearance, right? What ever it takes to have low seat pressure, right?
Conical springs produce lower valve mass and can help but, they can't negate the need for open pressure.
So, give me a example of a actual spring, for a 8K (500 over rev factor) engine, with 1.78 installed ht, and .600 net lift and we will say 150 lb seat pressure. You say you an have anything you want, right? Oh, I forgot, it needs hyd rollers so I don't have to fiddle with it. What's the spring number I want?
I'll give you a break and won't require positive rotating retainers
We have ran 8k engines, for many years w/o conical springs. I would say, before you were born, even. As heavy a seat pressure as you had to take, to get the open pressure and longevity needed. Coil bind has to be addressed as well as fatigue.
For a street engine at 5500 or less, seat pressure isn't as important. Low lift and low duration, with longer ramps, won't get you into any area, where your gonna pull a valve apart or shorten valve seat life, beyond normal rebuild life. You can triple spring prices with conicals. That's fine, if you don't need the money someplace else. Each part in a engine costs money, there are a LOT of parts. I make my decisions of where I spend my money and I spend it wisely.
Correct coil bind settings, will lengthen spring life as that is where they are designed to work.
To answer the PO's question:
The main one is, would you shim the side with lower lift to get the same open pressure, especially if the lower lift one is the intake?
You want to set them at the same coil bind clearance, for best results.