I'm going to set my valves with the EVO/IVO method with adjusters retracted...

[fairlaniac]

So I'm going to set my valves per the EVO/IVO method per Brent Lykins. On my Harland-Sharp rockers I have loosened the lock nut and retracted the adjuster almost out of the rocker body. I'm going to set everything from scratch. Should I start with the firing order and run the adjuster into the push rod cup and set them one at a time? Seems when ever I took off the rocker shaft assembly in the past and put it back on and keeping  the adjusters still set from when they came off, I was torqueing the stand nuts against the valve spring tension which I'm sure flexes the shaft as I do so? Is this a bad practice? Should you always retract the adjusters each time you have the shaft assembly off the engine?

Thanks!

[blykins]

I just start on one side and roll through from front to back, then go to the other side.   When it's in the car or on the dyno, it goes super fast, because you can bump it with the starter and fly through it.  I can check all the valves in just a couple of minutes. 

To answer your other question, there are two positions on the balancer where the valves will be shut or almost shut.  You don't have to loosen all the adjusters every time you pull the rockers off.  Just park the engine so that all the valves should be shut on one side, pop the rockers on and run the nuts down evenly and slowly, then do the other side.

[Joe-JDC]

If you will take a white grease pen and mark the damper at 0*, then put a dot exactly straight across the damper which would be 180*, then put two more dots at 90* and 270*, you can go through adjusting the valves in just two revolutions following the firing order.  Simple to do that way.  I have started marking my dampers upon assembly so that I can adjust valves this way quickly any time after engine break-in is completed or changing lash settings on dyno. Just rotate the engine to the next dot and not worry if you have the camshaft and lifters in the correct position for lash adjustment.   Joe-JDC

[My427stang]

I would back off nothing in preparation.

Pull off one valve cover, hook up a starter button to the solenoid, unhook your 6AL plug or equiv, and do intake and each exhaust opens and exhaust when intake closes.

If you want to be careful, go around them all again by bumping the starter.  You'll be done with one side in no time, even rechecking

Button up that side, then do the other.  You'll be amazed how quick it goes. 

ON EDIT: Correct yourself now though or you are in for trouble.  Its not EVO/IVO.....

EO-IC

EO - Exhaust (starts to) open, anywhere on the opening ramp - adjust intake valve on that cylinder
IC - Intake (starts to) close, anywhere on the closing ramp - adjust exhaust valve on that cylinder

If you do EVOIVO it'll be all over the place

[fryedaddy]

i put a power handle on the crank bolt and rotate 1/4 turn at a time while watching the cylinder that im doing next,in firing order.when it comes to adjusting valves im in no hurry.i like to make sure they are perfect,or there is no need in setting them .i dont like bumping my starter.i have had a little bad luck in the past with headers on the street with my starters hot.i have harland sharps too,i think they recommend 0-1 thread showing under the adjuster for proper pushrod length.

[Falcon67]

I do the EOIC adjustment like Brent - start at #1 and go down the row one at a time.  I don't bother with firing order, doesn't make it any faster.  Right side, left side, done.