So I have a deep sump 8 QT Canton pan on my build, after mocking it up with the stock ride height it is fine, but I dropped the front suspension and the rear suspension 2 1/2" on all 4 corners and now that deep sump pan is too low. So I need to get a T pan. However when reading on the T Pan from Canton, Moroso I dont see one that has a Stroker clearance for a 4.25 stroke......................What you builders use?

So every now and again I just get a real good nights sleep and I wake up with what I think is a real good idea. My history with building cars and bikes goes back 30 yrs, however the majority of that time is mainly over the last 15 with higher HP technology stuff. I have decided to ditch this carb stuff and and run a FAST EZ-EFI system.

Now my question is to you Engine builders with EFI conversions.

I have three options to choose from all based off of intakes I already own, I am not looking for the max HP, but a combo of HP, Original looking old school motor and drive ability. My combination is as follows:

1) Bored and stroked cross Bolt main 406 so CI is 445
2) Lentech AOD
3) Rear end gear is a 3.89
4) Car weight is about 3900 lbs wet (1961 Thunderbird)

Intakes available

1) Ford LR 1963 Dual Quad ( Thinking FAST EZ with dual quad upgrade Kit )
2) Shelby Side winder
3) Edelbrock Street Master

All three intakes have plus or minuses I am sure, the one that intrigues me the most is the dual quad with the FAST EZ, however I have read on this forum some short comings on the EZ system and I have also read the EZ 2.0 is a better system................I sure like the looks and the function of the 2.0 better so the right fit might very well be the Street Master or the Shelby which I know most here dont really like that intake for performance.

So what to do? I will be interested in hearing your thoughts, One thing is for sure................I have made up my mind and the carb really needs to go away.................Hell Its been so long I cant even remember how to tune on of those things!!! LOL

I recently bought a Lentech AOD for the Bad Byrd, so now I need to sell the Built c6 and New TQ converter, my question is anybody out there running one and what did you do for a TV cable and bracket?

I am all set-up for the C6, so I have a Billet carb mounting throttle cable, but truly had no intentions of using a kickdown..........I have always shifted my auto's so never found the need for one. But this is a totally different situation so a little help or opinion is necessary.

So I have possible changed my tune a little bit on the Stroker build. I bought a Edelbrock Streetmaster intake manifold, and I am shocked at how small the intake ports are. My heads are essentially MR intake ports and the intake ports on the Shelby Sidewinder are a medium riser as well but this Streetmaster is TINY compared to the heads and the Sidewinder. So has anyone ever actually taken these out that far?

I cant imagine being able to even port match to the gasket on the Streetmaster, I am looking at blending at least .150 in each direction to get these to match.

So I am in the market to have a Aluminum drive line build for the Bad Byrd project, the guy that has always build my stuff over the years has gone out of business. There is a couple other builders in town but I have never heard anything good about either one of them.

Anyone have any good experiences with a certain driveline builder that they want to share with me?

I have been working on the braking System for the Bad Byrd project and got the rears on, but now its on to the fronts. The rear set-up is a 13" Wilwood 4 piston caliper set-up and the front is a AeroSpace Brakes 14" with 4 piston Calipers and the GT Hub. Although Quite a bit different then the Brembo and Stop Tech kits I have done in the past these are equally well done. One little hick-up that appears to be my fault is the front Calipers where supposed to be Black and I didnt relay that to them...............So I might be sending those back!

Hello everyone

I am building a Resto Mod/ Pro Touring 1961 Thunderbird, I had a guy out of Florida build my engine. We discussed this build over the phone many times and after all my waffling and direction changing he finally finished the engine to my exact specifications. He did a great job and the engine looks GREAT. My question to you FE experts which I am not is this. How much HP did I leave on the table by not running a set of Aluminum heads? I realize this is a broad question being all the different heads out there, but a general # is all I am asking for here no exact numbers of coarse. Here are the engine specs.

406 Cross Bolt Main block 
Probe 4.160 Pistons
4.125 stroked Crank
Callies 6.700 BBC rods
Cam is a Comp Cam Specs 282/288 .530/.540 108 LSA (hydraulic roller)
Intake is a Shelby Side Winder
Heads are a worked over set of C4's 2.09 Intake 1.65 Exhaust
Comp Ratio 10.41 (static) 7.96 (dynamic)
Harland Sharp Roller Rockers
Carb is a Quick Fuel 780 I had built to the specs of the motor
Headers are FPA

Any input would be great, the engine isnt going in the car for its final resting place for a few months, so before I send it home for good, I am questioning my decision of not running Ported Aluminum heads. To invest another 3K I kind of wanting your expert opinions of what gains I would get to see if it is worth the $3K.

Thanx for your time and I appreciate all opinions.