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Topics - rcodecj

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1
Non-FE Discussion Forum / custom steel wheels
« on: March 27, 2023, 11:00:04 AM »
Does anyone know a place that will build custom wheels? I contacted Wheel Vintiques and they do custom back spacing but not custom width.
I am looking to have a stock steel wheel that will accept a dog dish hubcap, something like 9 inches wide and 5.5 inch back spacing. Thanks.

2
Non-FE Discussion Forum / J&L oil separator
« on: December 06, 2022, 04:39:25 PM »
What do you guys think of the J&L oil separator? They say it catches oil before it gets caked on the intake valves.
I've seen some newer 5.0 mustangs where it caught quite a bit.
Is it a good thing or does the engine use that oil to lubricate the valves?
They are very popular.
Here's a link to the product:
https://www.jlosc.com/jl-oil-separator-3-0-passenger-side-2018-2021-mustang-gt-2019-bullitt/

3
Non-FE Discussion Forum / HAPPY 428 DAY
« on: April 28, 2021, 09:46:03 AM »
I know I don't post much but I still read this forum every day.
Thanks to Jay and all of my friends on this forum for making it great.

4
Non-FE Discussion Forum / 2021 Mach 1
« on: October 08, 2020, 06:03:01 PM »
What's the opinion out there?
I wish you could get the Magneride without the stiffer springs. I'm concerned the ride might be rough even with the Magneride.
I do think Magneride would be a plus. Lots of moola though for the car.

5
FE Technical Forum / motor oil with zinc in a hydraulic roller cam engine
« on: November 24, 2018, 04:02:00 PM »
Can something like Mobil 1 15w50 synthetic, which has zinc in it be used in a hydraulic roller cam engine without any detriment?

All I can find is info on zinc when using a flat tappet cam and that it is not necessary with a hydraulic roller.
But would it be harmful?

6
FE Technical Forum / 1971 360 compression?
« on: April 26, 2017, 07:09:11 PM »
A friend of mine and I were talking about his dad's 71 pickup he bought new with  360 and he said he thought it was 9.3 compression.
I said I didn't think any 360 had compression in the 9's, not even the early ones.
No argument or anything just two guys who would like to know the compression of a 71 360.
Also I thought all 360's were all the same compression but I searched and can't find it.

7
Non-FE Discussion Forum / Positive Crankcase Ventilation valve testing
« on: December 03, 2014, 01:40:42 PM »
Test engine was a fresh 302 with 14” of vacuum at idle which is reasonable for the E series cam and 9.0 compression. Carb is a new 750hp Holley with holes in the primary throttle blades. Vacuum advance source was manifold vacuum that I wanted to keep despite the several hundred increase in idle rpm.

Purpose of the tests was initially to chase down why the engine needed to have the throttle blades closed below the transfer slot to get the idle down.. Engine was first tested for vacuum leaks and an intake manifold gasket leak was found and repaired but made little difference. Both valve cover openings were temporarily blocked and no vacuum was measured at the dipstick. In fact there was slight pressure not vacuum as it should be.

After that the test was to block the breather on one valve cover while leaving the PCV valve in the other side and measuring vacuum at the dip stick. I found information from a college mechanics test that it should read 1-3” of vacuum. With the hose pinched off the rpm should drop 50-80 rpm.

 With an unknown Fram PCV valve with the number 2286 on it, the vacuum at the dip stick measured 7.5” vacuum - too high despite being checked for vacuum leaks. My 460 measures 2.9” with the same PCV valve.

#2286 PCV valve hose was restricted to 3/32-.094 and dipstick vacuum reduced to 3.5”.

Next an AC Delco #CV774C PCV valve was tested and dip stick vacuum measured 5.9”.
PCV hose was restricted to 5/64-.078 and dip stick vacuum measured 2.2” but the PCV valve would not suck up to the carb side. I switched the restriction to the valve cover side and it still would not suck up.

Next up was an AC Delco #CV789C that measured at 1.9” dip stick vacuum.

While this helped a bit with the idle it was not major so I temporarily JB Welded the Holley throttle blade holes shut and was able to reduce the idle speed by 300-400 rpm. This allowed the carb to be set with the primary throttle blades uncovering the transfer slot instead of well below.

In looking at catalogs I found that the same PCV valve is listed for big blocks as well as small blocks and of course if you have a big cam you are out of luck to find a match. Because of this I have always just pulled one off the shelf that physically fit but it is obvious to me that the internal pintle valve makes all the difference in pan vacuum.

Just so we are clear at idle with vacuum the internal pintle should get sucked towards the carb side and closes (but not entirely) and at cruise (lower vacuum) it sits in the center and is more open.

I also discovered an adjustable PCV valve which would be perfect for setting the PCV to work at idle with a big cam but there is no adjustment for the cruise setting, they just say it is formulated to be correct by calculations based on the idle vacuum setting.

http://mewagner.com/?page_id=444

So, what do you guys think? Am I over thinking, under thinking?

8
Non-FE Discussion Forum / Hoonigan all wheel drive 65 mustang
« on: November 17, 2014, 03:07:45 PM »
If this doesn't make you want to go out and do a little hot rodding, I don't know what will.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5qanlirrRWs

Don't miss the reference to OJ at around 7:30

9
Non-FE Discussion Forum / coated headers
« on: November 01, 2014, 06:21:40 PM »
What's everyone's thoughts on coated headers?
I know they help under hood heat and resist corrosion but...

any horsepower gains?

10
Non-FE Discussion Forum / Galaxie offset shaft stabilizer bar
« on: September 29, 2014, 06:24:38 PM »
I saw this and thought it might be of interest. I vaguely remember reading something about this on Galaxies's in the past.
Maybe somebody could explain to me exactly what is pivoting that he mentions.
I bought one of his spring compressors and it was of very high quality and worked well.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/63-64-Ford-Galaxie-Offset-Shaft-Stabilizer-Bar-/251446444227?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3a8b6040c3

11
Here's a link to a boat load of vintage Ford books, magazines, shop tips, service training manuals, and sales brochures. There is lots and lots of excellent information.
It is all printable in PDF form.

http://mustangtek.com/Litterature.html

12
Non-FE Discussion Forum / the missing bolt, or was it?
« on: February 08, 2014, 02:37:38 PM »
I was working on the front springs and shocks the other day and lost one of the front shock bracket bolts, you know the 3 carriage bolts that slide into the top shock tower slot and hold the top shock bracket on. Anyway one  fell out and got lost. I looked and looked under the car at the suspension etc. I even backed the car up and swept the floor thinking I just wasn't seeing it. I then got the bright idea to have the wife come down to the shop and look for it, she always finds the ketchup in the frig when I swear there isn't any. Well, even she couldn't find it. So I ordered new ones, that usually makes the part reappear. It worked! I was sitting on a chair about 10 feet away and I spied something lying on the floor underneath the car. It was there in plain sight and I still don't know how I missed it, UNLESS, it was hanging onto the undercarriage or someplace on the car when I backed up and then fell down when I pulled it in. Anyway, the moral of the story is if you want to find your missing part or wrench just buy a new one. I figure I can always use these when I lose another one or on another project. Of course by the time I need them I won't be able to find them anymore. I hope you find my story amusing. Between not remembering where I put something or losing it for a while I have a heck of a time getting anything done anymore, but I just smile and think to myself it can wait it's only a hobby.

13
Non-FE Discussion Forum / Wilwood front disc brakes on 67-69 mustang
« on: November 26, 2013, 04:16:52 PM »
I am looking at the 140-11071-D Wilwood front disc brake kit for a 67-69 mustang.
The brake line kit they list is #220-12168 which has 18" brake lines.
I contacted Wilwood with concerns that the brake lines are too long. My current brake lines are around 14" long and they are plenty long a 12" might work, and I am aware they have to be long enough for full suspension travel. They told me "The caliper in this kit sits higher and in a different position from the OEM, which require a longer line."
In looking at the pics I don't see that it sits higher and if it sits in the rear instead of the front like my 67 then it could be even shorter.

Is anyone running Wilwood front disc brakes with a 67-69 mustang that could tell me what the brake lines look like.

Does it really need an 18" brake line?

Here's a link to the disc brake kit and the lines:
Thank you.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/wil-140-11071-d/overview/

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/wil-220-12168/overview/


 

14
Non-FE Discussion Forum / Marti Auto Works Service Center Museum
« on: June 29, 2013, 05:08:36 PM »
title says it all, there is some cool Ford service equipment in this video:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-C0mBfcJdv8&feature=youtu.be

15
Non-FE Discussion Forum / Pro systems SV1 tech review
« on: January 09, 2013, 09:58:52 PM »
I have a friend who put a couple of these on a big cubic inch mopar hemi.
They really did clean up the idle from standard Holley's
The car did go faster but unfortunately it was not the only change made at the time.
I believe they are only recommended for high horse power engines. He runs 9.3's if I recall correctly.
He doesn't run an air cleaner, so I kid him all the time that he is going to suck a bird down one of the carbs some day.  ;D

Here's the link:
http://www.enginelabs.com/engine-tech/tech-review-pro-systems-sv1-carburetor/?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=tech-review-pro-systems-sv1-carburetor

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