Hi everyone,

my last post was around this time last year when I installed Jay's intake manifold adapter but had to abort since I seemingly over torqued one  bolt and cracked the water jacket - yes my fault.

Well now I have had the adapter repaired and tested and now installed on the car, see images below.

Seems to run like a charm but need to tweak the distributor settings and the carburetor as well as it is not perfect. Also I cannot drive the car yet since I had to rip out the accelerator arm, the kickdown and of course the accelerator itself. The reason for this is the adapter and Cleveland manifold have moved the mounting points so high that I only have HALF the leverage and ipso facto - half throttle maximum.

Would any readers out there who have replaced their throttle with a Lokar or similar please offer any feedback? I have not purchased the throttle mechanism yet (thinking of http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/361379932349?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT ) but the Thunderbird is a pain as the firewall is double skinned!

Here are my specifications now:
- Mallory mechanical distributor, setup like Faron did with my Duraspark and fired with a MSD 6AL
- 4 barrel Cleveland manifold
- Demon Carb, 650 cfm
- everything else the same as before

Also, thanks to Brent, I found this on an old Forum 54 post from years ago and following this the engine fired first crank - saved a lot of fussing around!

If you're not sure of the firing order and distributor, here are some pointers:

Firing order is 15426378, CCW.

Passenger side cylinders are 1-4. Driver's side is 5-8.

Make sure that #1 is coming up on the compression stroke (you can put your finger in the spark plug hole, or you can pull a valve cover and watch the rocker arms), and stop when the pointer is pointing around 25° BTDC. Once that happens, make sure the rotor is pointing at the #1 spark plug wire. At that point, give her a crank.

Drew,

that is a pretty good video, link is here:
 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9vcWvp_DIWA

Graeme

Congratulations, a great feeling.

Graeme

I went to order some air bleed blanks from JEGs (Summit are the same) and the parts were around US$22 but shipping was US$67...why!!

They would easily fit in a small envelope, don't need a box with shiet loads of bubble wrap.

There is a business opportunity for someone in the US; margins are so small I guess the big players rule?

Graeme

Sure is purdy'

Hi,

I've just about had it with my original radiator, was perfect until the block cracked and pressurized the radiator and expansion tank - leaks everywhere. The expansion tank is good now but the radiator I've had multiple leaks repaired and again this week, another spot has opened up.

I was thinking of a few solutions, what do you guys think:

• recore existing radiator 4 core?
• replace with a new radiator (custom built)
• as above but do away with expansion tank and have radiator cap installed and hose to manifold (like a Galaxie)
• as above but do not have trans cooler setup in radiator

That last thought would be that I run aluminium pipe in the correct size to a dedicated Derale type cooler behind the axle.

Thanks, I appreciate your feedback

Graeme
p.s Installed in 62' Thunderbird

Thanks Jay,

did not need to trim anything else, the adapter went on 'ex factory'.

Here is a good look at where I am at now - had family commitments otherwise would have been out and about now.

Some points to note:

• manifold to water pump tube did not require any trimming, but it is not a straight connection. Should not be an issue though.
• tightening up the Cleveland manifold (the one here) you can get to all the bolts, same for the adapter with a torque wrench. But it is a long stretch to the rear bolts on the Cleveland.

So, in the coming week I should have everything up and running, will check back later.

Graeme