Truck has about 120k miles on it.  No mods, has just been a reliable stock daily driver.  Noticed a fuel smell a few months ago.  Took it on a 2 hour trip about a month ago.  It was fine on the way there.  When I got home there was fuel dripping in front of the passenger front wheel, the inside of the wheel was wet, and fuel was all over the battery on that side as well.  Truck runs fine.  Did some searching, and there was fuel in the valley between the heads.  Replaced the hard fuel supply on the passenger side head, no improvement.  Took off the fuel filter bowel, replaced the drain valve, o-rings, fuel filter and cap.  No more fuel in the valley, but still leaking fuel in front of the passenger wheel.
  The front of the motor is completely dry.  There is no leak in the valley now.  You can sit with the truck running for 20 minutes and no leak.  I tried putting it in gear, and sitting still loading it with the breaks, no leak.  It looks like somehow fuel is spraying forward onto the radiator overflow tank, and getting blown by the fan over to the passenger side battery when driving.  I tried shoving rags around the filter housing, fuel lines, and injector pump.  Drove the truck.  Rags are dry, but there is still fuel all over the battery, dripping down in front of the passenger tire.
  All of the fuel lines run up from the drivers side into the valley of the motor.  They are all dry.  The injectors are under the valve covers.  I have now idea where the source of the leak is now.

Paul

Looking at a Sunbeam Alpine tomorrow that had a Ford v6 conversion.  I think Offy is the only game in town for a 4 barrel intake.  They are stupid expensive new, and hard to find.  Any leads on a used one would be great.  Will anything else work?

Thanks
Paul

I was running Felpro composite gaskets.  They had a good squish pattern on both sides of the gaskets.   They were installed dry, no sealants or grease.  They had a pretty good leak on both sides.  So I changed the gaskets.  I used Felpro cork gaskets, Motorcraft T31, and red grease.  I made a full bead of T31 on the inside lip of the valve covers, inside the bolt holes.  I stuck on the gaskets, and lightly greased the head side.  I set the covers on the heads, and just put the bolts in enough to hold everything in place until the silicone set.  I snugged the bolts up the next day, and took it out for a run.  I can see oil running down from the bolts, on the top surface of the covers.  Not just the bolts on the bottom bolts, but also from the bolts on the sides.   A decent amount of oil leaking, considering I did not drive it that long.  Any ideas?

Paul

Long story, I will try to make it short.  I own nothing but Fords.  Have about 15 Fords in the garage right now.  Wanted a new Bronco.  Put in a reservation and deposit in October 2020.  I still have no vehicle.  Really wanted a v8 in my new toy, but nothing available.  I put in all the options for what I could.  About $54,000.  Heard they were doing a Raptor version this summer and tried to sign up.  No way to do it.  End of January got an email from Ford.  It said if I was interested in a Raptor Bronco, click the link on the email.  They would let me know by Feb 11th.   Got a no love email from Ford on Feb 11th, said I couldn't get one.  Called up Ford corporate to see what was going on.  Basically it was a lottery email they sent out.  Maybe gave one guy a chance to buy the Raptor Bronco at sticker price, but they let it slip that the dealers would still get Raptors to sell.   Ford said they "should go to reservation holders" first.  After a couple calls to my dealer, they lied constantly about what was going on, finally heard that they were going to charge about $20,000 over sticker for the Raptor Bronco.  That means the sticker base $68,500 + $20,000.  Sounds like a good deal to me!  Really interesting right after Ford put out stories about cracking down on dealers up charging for specialty vehicles.   I am dealing with Ricart Ford, in Columbus Ohio.  I think they are still the largest Ford dealer in America.  I also learned that 40% of the Broncos produced are sold to walk in buyers.  No reservation necessary.  I will never give Ford another dime.  I am cancelling my reservation, will only buy aftermarket parts from here on out.

Paul

Anybody have extra Holley parts lying around.  I have a manual set up, need to switch to electric.  New parts are cost prohibitive.

Thanks
Paul

I have a solid 69 fastback  that started life as a 390 Mach 1.  It was a California car,  with just a few small rust holes in the trunk floor (bad seal).  I bought it in primer.  It has sat untouched for the last 10 yrs.  It will eventually have a FE heart again, but right now it has a Cleveland .
  Just really want to get it back on the road this summer.  Now way will it be painted, or FE powered.  Just want to get the mechanicals in working order.  The motor turns over by hand, but looks like it was never under power.  The motor mounts are not even bolted in.  I don't know what condition the motor is in, but will give it a whirl to get it running.  The tires are junk on it, so to get things rolling (literally).

1)  What wheel size?  It has a cool set of Ansen aluminum slots on it now, 14's in the front 15's in the back.  The off set on the back wheels is way off.  They stick out past the fenders.  If I stick with 15"s all around, what back spacing should I shoot for in the front and back?  I have a good set of 235-60-15 and 295-50-15.  Any way I can run these tires with the right rims?

Thanks
Paul

I am still building up my 292 y block.  Found out the stock 1956 bolts that I used are grade 5-6, and tend to stretch.  I want to change out to grade 8 bolts.  They are new gaskets, motor has never been fired.  The are Best Gasket brand head gaskets, some kind of graphite composite material.  If I change out the bolts one at a time will the gaskets still be OK?

Paul

Looking to buy a SOHC mechanical  fuel pump?  Is anybody still modifying the Holley fuel pump arms to work with the SOHC?  Also have a friend that has a single 4 SOHC intake.  He said it uses a very small temp sending unit.  Any ideas where to source it?

Thanks
Paul