freydaddy, just another chiming in with some helpful advice.
A full spool changes things drastically because you now have a single purpose tool in the rear end rather than a multi-tasking differential.

Do a bit of research online concerning the geometry at work when you have two different lines being traversed while connected.
The easy description: When turning, the inside tire travels less distance than the outside tire.
This means the two tires, connected via the spool, must figure out a way to travel different distances, at different speeds, while being radially connected by the axel shaft.....something MUST give.

What gives, hopefully, is the tires traction ability....meaning the tires must skid in some manner.
The inside tire scuffs around the smaller circumference while the outer tire skids and tries to keep up with the radius turning speed of the inside tire.

ALL of this causes every portion of the suspension and rear driveline to bind as it works to overcome the traction limits of the tires as they skid.

From the driver seat you WILL feel, and hear, many things you have not yet experienced.
Be specially aware of on and off throttle chassis/steering inputs as you go around cloverleafs at speed.
It will basically feel like your car is being shoved by the hand of god as it shifts during the turn....often in an unsettling manner because the car tries to either go straight, or the unloading and loading of the suspension "grabs" and then slips, and then "grabs" again, over and over until the curve is complete.

EVERY portion of this is elevated if the road surface has any type of traction limiters, (rain, sand, snow, dirt, leaves, mayflies, etc)

If you have a BIG parking lot available I strongly suggest you drive around that empty lot fiddling with turning radiuses, throttle inputs, braking inputs, and other things just to get used to driving with a spool and sticky tires.

Once you have a full understanding about what is going on and what is normal then you can drive around with knowledge and confidence.......But don't think for a second you can toss the keys to another driver and hope they do okay.

A spool is a dedicated tool that can not be duplicated any other way....but like most dedicated tools, they have their limitations and place.

I don't think the street is a good place for a spool equipped driver style car.
If you are taking a dedicated drag car to a special show once or twice per year then it is okay.
But if this is your "daily" cruiser a spool gives rise to many plausible troubles that other differential options cover in a far better manner.

A Detroit Locker is one better example.
They come with their own set of "instructions" but they are MUCH better on the street than a full spool.

Anyway, know what you installed and understand the "contract" you signed when installing the spool in your street driven toy.

Big power, skinny front tires, wrinkle wall slicks and a spool make for some exciting driving......just hope and prey it does not rain....ANYWHERE you will be driving that particular night of street racing, otherwise you may find yourself driving home at a comically slow speed just so you don't crash while driving straight down the highway....The on ramps are really fun.

I, ummm, read about this in a magazine once....Yeah, that's the ticket, in a magazine.

What is "stock" on any of these?

Because of this forum I was able to get into contact with another forum member from across the country to help with an automobile issue.
Mark Bliss, who lives and works nearby where my daughter is now living and working, is that forum member.
Mark and I talked about what needed to be done and he agreed to do that work for a small fee.

The task was the removal of an aftermarket car alarm that began giving troubles.

This whole thing took a few months to finalize, for a number of valid reasons, but today Mark
and my daughter scheduled the repair and Mark was successful in removing the troubled alarm.
Mark stuck to his original amount and would not accept more.....What can I say other than,

Thank you Mark Bliss.

Your mechanical efforts and experience helped solve a long distance repair issue I would not likely get to for a long while (I'm 1600 miles away)

But this seemingly small gesture goes beyond the simple mechanical repair.

Mark, you helped a dad get his daughter in a better spot from a long distance while providing a trustworthy, honest person to deal with.....That trustworthy and honest part is worth far more than the mechanical work.

Thank you Mark, you fixed the car, and you put a dad at ease in the process.
I am grateful for your generosity.

You have plenty of great suggestions already but I want to tell you one of my favorites.
Around here we have wrecking yards called "U-Pull" where you go pull the parts.
They are neatly set up in rows of similar age and make of vehicles.

When I need an electrical connector I go to a U-Pull and look at some of the modern cars (2010 and newer) because they are laden with electrical connectors....the higher the luxury options the more connectors.

I know what I am trying to make so I search for useful connectors.
Once I find a useful connector I cut that connector out of the wire harness leaving as much extra wire on each side of the connector as prudent.

Then I solder and shrink tube graft that connector into the wire system I am modifying and BAM!....a factory quality electrical connection for very little money and some time spent searching.

One way to get a "heated tank" is to purchase one of the magnetic oil pan heaters.....provided your tank is metallic.
Attach the magnetic heater to the side/bottom of the tank (outside of course) and plug it in.....pretty soon you have heated solvent.

Installing a drain valve of some type right from the get go is a great step in making all other fluid changes, cleaning, draining better because the plug is just a mess waiting to happen.

I have installed a ball valve along with some AN fittings so I can attach various things to the drain of the tank.
A regular hose, made from scrap braided line and old AN fittings, to run when simply draining the tank.
That same regular hose also attaches to an oil filter adaptor so I can filter the drained fluid if I choose and reuse it...I use standard FL1A filters.

One of my favorite water based cleaning fluids is standard Dawn dish soap.
If will get a bit foamy if not careful, but it really doea a great job cleaining grease from parts, it has not bad odor or fumes, and is relatively easy to dispose of at the recycler.

One caveot when using Dawn dish soap....it will begin to mold over time after being contaminated with dirty gunk..

Like Joe said, some of us dabble with other Fords, including small blocks. My pump gas, hydraulic roller 347 SBF runs 10.0s at 133 mph, and is "all motor".  So ask away, if nobody here knows, we will likely say so, unlike so many of the clueless responders on a lot of the facebook groups.

Rory428, you said a mouthful in this post.
There are forums dedicated to small block Fords and, unfortunately, many seem chock full of people DESPERATE to either tell you what they know, regardless of how wrong, or desperate to start an argument over the simplest thing......Like asking a basic question.

This forum does not cater to the small block but there are members here with PLENTY of small block knowledge and experience.

Diogenes, I have the Lisle lifter pulling tool.
If you need it I can ship it to you and when you are done just send it back to me....undamaged of course.
Basically you reach down the pushrod hole in the intake with the tool, grab the lifter, pull it out of the hole, shift it over to the bigger open area of the intake space between the ports and pull it out of the engine.

A strong magnet on a stick will also work, just pull slow and steady to release the oil film tension.
The small neodymium magnets are great for this type of grab and pull work.

I'm sure we have all experienced this in some fashion.
Working on mechanical objects exposes us to some irritating things....of which we find out in curious manners.

While the attention getting sensations you describe do make a lasting impression, I find it is the stealthy things that seem to get me the most.

Things like trac-lok additive............a seemingly benign little bottle of special lubricant.
However, should you get this on....well....anything, that thing will stink like the horrible additive for the next ten years and there is basically no way to clean it off.