Is there a consensus on whether the engine should be painted after assembly or at the components stage before assembly?

Does anyone have pushrod length data from a build using Barry's Felony heads, OEM non-adjustable rockers and stands, and Morel 5325 hydraulic rollers.  I need to order an adjustable pushrod from Smith Brothers to use to determine pushrod length (at zero lash)  for my build. The Smith Adjuster offered only has .250 range and ideally I can order one that's provides 1/8" adjustment in each direction.

I thought these checker pushrods would have more range, but Smith is the only option I found to get a 3/8 ball on one end and a 5/16 ball on the other.  I'm open to alternate suggestions.

I've been doing a little work on my long term project, a 482 stroker to drop in my '67 Mustang convertible with a 4 speed manual transmission.  It's being built for the street, power coming in low, and starting to run out of steam somewhere north of 5,000 RPM, maybe up to 5,500?  Yrs ago on a lark I picked up a used 3310-1 (Holley 780 cfm) carb.   It seems like it's a nice size for a street motor of this size, but...  The linkages might be for a GM auto transmission, and it needs rebuilt, but the finish is still very nice, better than most older carbs I see.  I plan on using a Blue Thunder MR intake. 

Any advice on how to determine if this carb makes sense or if I'm pushing on rope?

Probably a thread that will last years...

I have a '67 convertible GTA 390.  A/C, P/S, Power disc/drum brakes, Thermactor, C6, Deluxe Interior.  I have not driven in years due to engine trouble, transmission trouble, radiator trouble, brake trouble, steering trouble, suspension trouble etc...  It's a CA car that might be a legitimate 38k mileage car (I have not been able to make a decision one way or another as I dig into it, if I think the mileage is original.  I think it was wrecked in some way and sat for many years, and then put through a restoration of sorts in the early 90's.  Engine is correct date code, but has been out & apart)

At first I was going to freshen up the 390 and stroke it to 445 and use the original heads.  I got a lot of flack for that idea, and got carried away one weekend and purchased a set of Survival Heads from Blair Patrick that he worked over a bit.  Come to find out Blair could have set up the 390 heads the way I imagined for a reasonable price, but the survival heads were already purchased.
 
The block I've decided to use is a late service block side oiler that sat in the Collier's Collection's GT40 for many years before they realized it should have a properly date coded block.  It is in very good shape, hardly used, but some questionable factory machining and assembly work.  I've had it tucked away for 10 years or so. 

The block has just been machined by my local shop and I’m trying to get everything ordered to balance the rotating assembly in the next week or so.

I'm shooting for a 10:1 Comp ratio and a hydraulic roller with fairly low lift that uses factory non-adjustable rockers.  I'd like a Blue Thunder intake with a 735 or 780 carb on it, but I also get a little carried away with the idea of a Blue Thunder 8v with a set of 600s on top

I'm switching the transmission to a toploader, and have many of the parts needed.  It's a long list of parts and I still need more.  I'm using a McLeod RST Clutch and steel flywheel.  I have a new in the box Romac 427 balancer I've had for 10 yrs or so that I'll use.  I was going to use an original 427 balancer, but the shop talked me out of it.  (One less component to send out and get rebuilt)

More to come.

Will this kit be adequate for porting a set of cast iron heads.  I also have a few carbide cutters, but nothing like the selection of cartridge rolls in this kit.

http://www.amazon.com/Standard-Abrasives-260001-Deluxe-Porting/dp/B0015DQH2Q

Does anyone have some dimensional information on the location of the Valve Stem center or plane with respect to the chamber of the C6AE-R heads.  I have read that the valves are 2" apart, but do not see any data on where the intake or exhaust is located with respect to the center plane of the chamber  I can measure this to a degree of accuracy, but would like exact info if available.  The "Shoe" drawings I have are for a MR head which have a longer valve spread 

I'm starting to collect parts for a build I am slowly working towards and thought I'd share my thoughts and see if anyone has suggestions on the parts.

I have a running 390 that I plan on stroking;

I have the following parts;

Running 390 engine
Stroker Crank and Rods
CJ Intake
C6AE-R bare heads

My current thoughts are to
1) Get the heads built with CJ valves, pocket port and a minimal cleanup of the ports
2) Set the compression around 10:1 with forged pistons
3) Acquire a set of CJ exhaust manifolds
4) Acquire a CJ 735 Carb or similar
5) Acquire a Solid Comp 282s Cam and associated parts
6) Acquire stock type adjustable rocker setup

Regarding the CAM, I plan on getting a little advice from a cam grinder when I'm ready to buy the CAM, I'll have the heads done by then, but it seems like the 282s is a pretty standard recipe for a 445 build, so out of the selection of solid grinds in catalogs, it seems like a good starting point

I plan on using a 3.25"1 rear end, it's currently 3.00:1
My current transmission is a C-6, but I've collected most of the parts needed for a toploader conversion.
Exhaust will be 2.25 stock CJ or 2.5" that is visually similar to the stock setup if possible.

The engine is for a '67 Mustang convertible that will be street only.  Any strong opinions on a better way to go for a fun very responsive, but drivable street ride would be appreciated.