Toploader counter shaft leak fixes?

[67428GT500]

I rebuilt my Toploader. The kit came with a new shaft and of course I used it. However, I noted some gear oil on the inspection cover and along the bottom side of the case. It's also getting on my coated headers.
Is there a way to seal the front side without removing the trans or pulling it completely out of the vehicle that anyone could recommend?

                                                                       Keith

[Tom Gahman]

after I install the plug, I wipe a little permatex or silicone over it. No leaks.
I think you'll have to pull the trans out to clean it good.
Tom

[67428GT500]

There was no plug on my case. Should there be a cup plug in the front of the case? I don't show one in the service manual either. I could always move it back and lay the input on the housing and have a few inches between the front of the case and the bell housing.

                                                                                    -Keith

[blykins]

There’s a little shallow cup plug that goes in the front to cover the cluster shaft.

[shady]

Are you sure that the oil is not coming out of the vent hole on the top cover? Mine does this.

[BattlestarGalactic]

The countershaft has no seal or plug.  It is just flush with the face.  It is a pretty tight fit and I've never had any issues with seepage.   It fits tight against the face of the bellhousing so it's pretty hard for it to leak.  It gets pushed in from the rear of the case, as it has a locating pin in it.

The shift rail has a small plug, and I do put a dab of silicone on it before tapping it in and then wipe around it enough to remove the excess and make sure it won't seep.  It is high enough in the case it shouldn't really be an issue.

You may have issues, but I doubt it is either of the above mentioned.

[Gregwill16]

Like Larry mentioned the countershaft has no plug unlike the shift rail. I put a wipe of silicone on both. Not to scare you Keith but I bought a trans a couple years ago that leaked around the countershaft. Somehow (previous jakeleg I'm sure) the shaft was allowed to walk forward and the roll pin in the back came out of its slot and this allowed the shaft to wear the case in the front.

[blykins]

Ahhh that's right.  The plug is not for the counter shaft.  Sorry.

[BattlestarGalactic]

Like Larry mentioned the countershaft has no plug unlike the shift rail. I put a wipe of silicone on both. Not to scare you Keith but I bought a trans a couple years ago that leaked around the countershaft. Somehow (previous jakeleg I'm sure) the shaft was allowed to walk forward and the roll pin in the back came out of its slot and this allowed the shaft to wear the case in the front.

Good point, I've seen cases like that also.  Only real fix is bore the case and install a sleeve.  Not worth fixing unless you can do the work yourself.

[67428GT500]

I was really careful. The kit came with a new shaft. The OE ford shaft never leaked a drop. As usual, the second gear syncro was on the beat side. It made sense to rebuild it while it was out. It shifts smooth as glass. 

[Tom Gahman]

Your right, no plug, but I would still wipe your favorite goop over it after it is clean and dry.

[rockhouse66]

I think it should always have a smear of RTV on the face in that area.  Like this;

[67428GT500]

That looks like TA31 sealer. I am trying to figure out how I can clean it up enough to get it to seal without removal. I didn't see anything about this in the Ford sevice manual nor did my trans have it when it was torn down. Sometimes it comes down to old tricks and past experiences.  I guess I'll drain it, clean it up well with brake kleen and use a bondo spreader to force sealer in and use a small piece if the thin rubber sheet. Stick it to the face of the case and the wet TA31, get it back in the splines and bolt it down and let it dry over night.
If someone has a better idea, I'm certainly willing to listen.

[rockhouse66]

The sealer I used is just the Permatex Ultra Grey RTV.  It has a smoother and less sticky consistency than red, for example, and is easy to "smear".  As I recall, the shaft should be back from the face of the case a little bit, so if you get it clean and dry you should just be able to put some of the RTV on a body putty spreader and smear it into the recess.

There used to be a guy who sold rebuild kits under the name Toploader Heaven and he had a very nice and comprehensive set of illustrated instructions for use by the novice rebuilder.  His instructions included a recommendation that this area be sealed with RTV or I probably wouldn't have thought to do it.

[BattlestarGalactic]

Yes the shaft can be knocked back a touch as there is nothing to actually hold it besides friction in the bores.  Some brake clean should do well enough to apply some RTV.