Will an HEI style MSD distributor/cap fit under the MR 2x4 air cleaner?

[cjshaker]

I currently have a MSD distributor with the socket style cap, but I can't get the plug wires I want with the correct distributor ends. I want to replace my Taylor wires with the Crane Firewire Sleeved wires but they only seem to be available with the HEI cap ends. The current MSD cap is really close to the factory 2x4 air cleaner on my Medium Riser intake as it is, and the HEI cap looks to  be a bit taller so I'm not sure if it will fit under it. I can't raise the air cleaner any on my Mach as it just BARELY clears the hood as it is.

Any of you guys run one under this combo?

[jgkurz]

Hi Doug, I know this is old post but what did you decide for your distributor with the 2x4 aircleaner? I have a few options I'm considering for use with my MSD 6ALP. I am using Taylor ThunderVolt 8.2 wires that I can make whichever connector I want (HEI or Female). What worked for you and what didn't?




Duraspark - Mag pickup, locked with small cap with female connectors
This will fit and looks OEM but the cap is VERY small which may cause crossfire in a locked distributor.

Accel Billet 52200 - Mag pickup, locked with medium cap (HEI or Female available)
This is a nice distributor for the money but the cap is tan. It's has to be converted to a locked configuration.

Crane Race Billet 1000-1617 - Mag pickup, locked medium or large cap with HEI connectors only.
This is the best FE distributor out there aside from the MSD. Very accurate. Blue cap, HEI only.

[cjshaker]

The HEI cap did fit under my air-cleaner. Surprisingly, it didn't seem much taller than the standard cap and Taylor Spiro-Pro 10mm wires I had on it before. Not as much as I was expecting anyway. I think you may even be able to squeeze the Cap-a-Dapt wire holder on it also, but it would be tight. Using 2 air-cleaner gaskets would help. Personally, I don't see the need for it.

Here's a picture of the set-up I have now. I ended up using Crane Firewire plug wires, which Blair mentioned to me. I am VERY happy with them! I always had problems pulling the ends off of other wires I tried, including two types of MSD wires (8 & 9.5mm) and the previously mentioned Taylor 10mm wires. The heat shrink tubing that goes over the ends of the Crane Firewires helps add some strain relief.



Here's an older shot with the standard cap and Taylor Pro wires. While it's not the greatest comparison shot, you can see that while the HEI wires are higher up than the standard style, they still fit fine.

[jgkurz]

Very helpful Doug. Thank you. You have a sweet looking engine. I love the 428CJ valve covers. Kind of sneaky being a 427. : ) I am doing the same. The chrome fuel line from the pump looks nice as well. Did you bend it yourself?

Based on your feedback I think I'm going to switch distributors. My MSD 6AL2 Programmable requires a locked distributor so rotor phasing becomes a concern. If I go with the MSD 8594 Pro-Billet setup I will be able to use an adjustable rotor. No other distributor that I know of has that option. All this and I know it will fit.

I looked at the Crane Fire Wire plug wires and they have a lower resistance than my Taylor ThunderVolts. If I buy the Crane wires which boot style has worked best for you? Straight, 90deg, or 135deg? I seem to remember a post on a forum that some cylinders on the FE need different boot styles. I can't seem to find it.

[cjshaker]

I love the 428CJ valve covers. Kind of sneaky being a 427. : )

That might be so, if it weren't for the 427 badges on the hood scoop   Which, interestingly, causes all sorts of snide comments any time some "Ford guru" sees them. Very few people even know enough to look to see if it has crossbolts or a front gallley plug, let alone the head casting numbers.



I've always found that the 45* or 135* (depending on who the maker is. never could figure that one out) always works best. The 90* ends always aim it straight at the valve cover or the exhaust port. The straights, right at the shock towers. I found with the Crane 135* ends, it was best to aim the front 2 cylinders forwards, the rear 2 towards the rear, and that gives you plenty of clearance around the exhaust ports and away from the covers. For some reason, the Taylors all needed to be aimed towards the middle for best clearance. You can see that between the 2 pictures if you look closely. The Taylors may have had a different angle degree, I can't remember for sure.

[jgkurz]

I debated changing my badges to 427 but I'm going to stick with 428 just to avoid the argument... It will be interesting to see how many people figure out what really is under the hood. The cross bolts would be easy to see.  Thanks for the spark plug wire advice!

Did you make the chrome/stainless fuel line yourself?

[Nightmist66]

One of my favorites is one I saw on the "other" forum, I believe. It was the same 427 badge Doug showed followed by "Cobra Jet", lol.


Edit: Here it is


It was originally posted here a couple yrs back by bartlett. Looks believable.

[jgkurz]

One of my favorites is one I saw on the "other" forum, I believe. It was the same 427 badge Doug showed followed by "Cobra Jet", lol.

HA! Awesome!

[Nightmist66]

Doug, it looks like you may have a slight more amount of room between the head and shock tower, hard to tell. I used to have a set of old Taylor wires with straight ends and cheapo baldy styled covers. They fit well. I switched to Ford Racing 9mm wires and the chrome pentroofs. The Ford Racing wires only come with the 45 degree boots in the kit. I wanted the straight ends for the look, so the closest thing I found was the replacement boots for Moroso 8.65mm wires. It took some tugging and WD40, but managed to get them on. Mine just barely touch the shock towers. The hardest part for me is the middle cylinders, mainly because I just had to have the pentroofs, and there is next to no room for my hand now.

[cjshaker]

I don't know, Jared. Are you sure about that?...lol





My header bolts TOUCH my shock tower bracing! There's a reason they never put the 427 in the Mustang
The big block '69 Mustangs have a wrap around reinforcement on the shock tower. That alone takes up another +-1/2" on each side depending on how well they were installed at the factory.
If I hadn't heated the shock tower braces with a torch and used a sledgehammer and block of oak to beat them back while I had the car on a rotisserie, the engine would never have fit with the 8 bolt heads. That's why I warned about those braces with 427 heads.

I don't like the wires touching anywhere on the towers. With the vibrations of the engine, they will wear a spot on the wire insulation over time and cause them to start arcing.

[Nightmist66]

Doug, does the top bolt on #2 cyl. touch the shock tower? Looks like it.

I don't have any close up pics of mine right now, but there are a couple similar to yours. My dad and grandpa did some slight "massaging" to the shock towers a long time ago to make things easier. Still, when I put my headers on, there are a couple tubes I have to have the bolt in the flange as I put it in place or it will never go in. Also I still have the 14 bolt heads, more bolts the merrier.

Also, which headers do you have, FPA?

[cjshaker]

Jared, the #5 exhaust on the left bank and the #3 on the right bank peck at the shock towers at idle. The right side #2 just misses it on the back side, but it's pretty close, just like the #1 on that side. When I mocked the engine in the car, I couldn't even get it to set down with the headers in place because of the wrap-around braces.

 I'm actually making a torque strap right now to help combat that pecking because it's pretty noticeable inside the car when it does it. The headers are your typical Hooker Super Comps.