Make sure you maintain clearance between the bearing and pressure plate fingers. As the disc wears this clearance goes away. You will burn the
clutch quickly when this happens. Steve

The 1305 bolt-on HTOB is a constant contact bearing.  The bearing and hydraulic system are designed so that the actual bearing always makes contact with the fingers of the pressure plate.  However, there is no pressure transferred to the pressure plate until the clutch pedal is depressed.

If you use a Tremec transmission.

I agree. BaT is the new auction house for the super rich. If any of you guys want to sell an awesome classic, BaT is the place to do it.

Doesn't need to be an awesome classic.  A big percentage of bidders on BaT have distorted their perceived value of the used car market.  If you want to sell a 1963 Dodge Dart, post it on BaT.  You may get 3x what it's worth.

https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1992-ford-mustang-6/
https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1965-jeep-wagoneer-5/

Thank you.

I've had several expansion tanks. The unit I use now, I completely dismantled it and removed all original solder and re-assembled it with high melt-point solder so I could powder coat it.

That being said, do you know the leak is at the point of contact between the tank flange and the intake manifold, as in the gasket area?  If so, I've stopped several minor leaks in that area without removing the tank.  Thoroughly dry the area, clean the area with some Brakleen, and then add a smear of your favorite color RTV.

I've owned a replica 427 Cobra for 28 years.  The 1st side oiler I installed in 1994 had a single Stellings air filter on a 750 Holley and the side pipes were 2.5" internal diameter.  I remember thinking the car was fast, but I actually expected it should have been faster than it was.

Step forward to present day, a different engine and a lot of tweaks to achieve more air filter surface area.  I had custom carb base plates made, used  1/4" phenolic spacers instead of 1/2", re-shaped the hood opening beneath the scoop to allow for positioning the 9" diameter x 2.75" tall filters.  I raised the rear of the hood 7/16" to provide more air filter clearance and let some engine bay heat escape.

The side pipes now have a 3" inner diameter muffler, that's not much of a muffler.  I register about 94 db sound level at idle with the meter laying in my lap.  I wear ear plugs.

Seems like there's a lot more horsepower getting to the pavement.

My set up.

are there anything you can do to improve high rpm shifting with a TL short of removing it or swapping for something different.when i wind up past 6000 my trans gets harder to shift.it makes me lose a lot of et with the slower shifts.trans is fresh,new shifter,clutch,flywheel.if i stay below 5500 its shifts great


I've experienced the same high rpm shift problem in the past.  I have a David Kee aluminum case Toploader.  5 years ago when replacing some internals of the TL, I spoke with David Kee and described my high rpm shifting issue.  One of his suggestions was to use 400 grit sandpaper and uniformly work the entire cone of the blocker rings.  He advised holding the sandpaper wrapped against the blocker ring, and rotate the blocker ring in one direction.  I did that and I feel it definitely helped.

I re-assembled the TL.  I ditched the McLeod twin disc clutch, and replaced it with a Ram long-style PP and single clutch disc.  The TL now shifts as well at 7,000 rpm as it does at 3,000 rpm.