Valve lash setting chart, is it good use for aftermarket cams?

[fairlaniac]

I've set my valve lash using this I downloaded years ago from Net54 fordFE.com.


Does it hold true on other cams with "bigger specs"? My card:


If I set lash using the chart and later check the gap by running through the firing order one cylinder at a time it seems I get a slightly different gap. But if I set and check per the chart using the sequence above it's right on at .026 each time. Does the sequence chart set lash at a different place on the lobe than setting each cylinder at a time? I hope I'm making sense? FYI - I'm getting no wear on lobes or anything.

Thanks,

[blykins]

The most accurate way is to use the "EVO" method.  Set the intake when the Exhaust Valve is Opening.  Set the exhaust valve when the intake valve is closing.  This will ensure that each lifter is positively on the heel of the lobe and is not affected by any overlap. 

I did a comparison a year or so ago on a YouTube video and there was a few thou difference between the EVO method and the TDC method. 

[1968galaxie]

I am agreeing with Brent again. EVO IVC

A little tighter than cam card lash is perfectly fine.
Looser than the lash ramp is not good.
I would be happy if lash fell between 0.020" and 0.025" hot.

[fairlaniac]

Thanks guys!

[Lowrider]

I used the 90° method on yblocks Ive run and had good results. Been using it on my latest FE build and seems to work OK. Reinstalling the 427 back in my 61 Starliner to fix my screw-up oll leak and I think I'll try Brent's method this time. Never was sure I was on the base circle when setting the valves.

[My427stang]

90 degree works unless the cam is big or significantly retarded or advanced.  That being said, I don't do it anymore, ever.

It's so much faster in the car to bump it with a starter button and use the EOIC method, and on the engine stand, it is good habit to do for pushrod length if you want to be accurate, and doesn't require any marking of the balancer and/or verifying the pointer is correct.  On the stand there is a bit more turning, but once you do it in the car, you won't craw under with a ratchet again

Actually, never say never, I have one exception, Cummins 6.7 diesels, those you need a special socket that engages the ring gear for leverage because they are so hard to turn over.  The balancer is marked and I do those on TDC, but hardly a race cam in a 3500 rpm engine