FE Power Forums
FE Power Forums => FE Technical Forum => Topic started by: Dryhoze1 on March 02, 2021, 12:14:52 AM
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Hi
Looking for some honest opinions.
Ready to purchase a new set of roller rockers (adjustable) I love Doug & his rockers, but some have broken on me in the past.
Who do you recommend? I need to put my mind at ease running this thing. All the best & stay safe & healthy in 2021..
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Here a few options.
https://www.shelbyengines.com/collections/all-fe-parts/products/shelby-fe-rocker-arms?variant=1033902273
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-19046/make/ford
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/csp-s4006nbk/make/ford
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I had Doug’s for years and although I did have 2 that broke that was after I raced it and drove it on the street for 8 years then let it sit for 18 years without letting off the rockers. So the 2 could have been holding pressure for all that time. I wouldn’t have a problem getting them. I had called Doug and he sent me 2 and I used them until someone practically gave me a set of Harland’s for half price.
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Has anyone here really beat on a set of these SHelby rockers ??? They sure are Purdy.. And what is the height on those stands ? I swear there are some Chinesium ones floating around out there that look damn near identical.
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I can tell you that those chinesium stainless ones(PRW) are pure garbage. A friend tried them out on a middle of the road hyd. roller with the appropriate springs. They were popping like popcorn. Could only get a couple miles down the road before one let go. One or two actually broke sitting in the garage running. The rocker shaft broke and the end stand gave out. He never even gave it all the beans, it was a fresh build. They put a slot through the end support strap like the hold down area, which completely defeats the purpose of the end support. ??? The Shelby are much more beefy. I have yet to get my hands on some, but plan to someday.
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Doug has what he calls the Generation 2 rockers which are more "beefy" than his original ones. Broke a couple of the originals and went ahead and bought a complete set of the Gen 2. No problems with them so far. The difference between the two is quite obvious. Give him a call and he can explain better than I can.
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To the OP: What type of camshaft and spring pressure will you be planning?
I think the ones I would lean toward the most are the T&D "street" and "race", Harland Sharp bushed(they do offer needle bearing), Shelby, POP. I believe Rocker Arms Unlimited still offers the aluminum roller rockers. The current POP rockers have been improved from the earlier ones. I have a set of the new ones, but haven't had a chance to try them.
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I saw the Shelby ones being made at a place called Rocker Arm Specialist or Specialties... in northern California. They had all sorts of rockers that were other brands for uncommon engines like Kenne Bell Buick ones and some Volvo and MG ones .
So they are US made. The Chinese have found a way to make paper mache look like metal.
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To the OP: What type of camshaft and spring pressure will you be planning?
I think the ones I would lean toward the most are the T&D "street" and "race", Harland Sharp bushed(they do offer needle bearing), Shelby, POP. I believe Rocker Arms Unlimited still offers the aluminum roller rockers. The current POP rockers have been improved from the earlier ones. I have a set of the new ones, but haven't had a chance to try them.
Thank you for all the replies!
Looks like I'll order the HS roller rockers
Jared I'll be running a solid roller
With
(0.674" lift, 262° @ 0.050")
If my memory serves me correctly
BBM heads
CP pistons
Tunnel wedge
4.250 stk
Etc
I run AV gas 100LL in the boat
Thanks again everyone!!
All the best,
Brian
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I think you will do fine with the Harland Sharps. I know they can handle over 700+ open. Good luck on the project!
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The spring pressure with the rocker arms is something to watch, but the spring pressure with the heads is something that really has to be focused on. Large spring pressures will pull traditional rocker studs clear out of the heads and I’ve had it happen at 600 lbs with aluminum heads. If you have no desire to cut the heads and go to a T&D race rocker, I would look closely at putting a bigger insert in those heads.
My rockers are made by Harland Sharp but I had them put a cup pushrod seat in them so that pushrods are easier to get. A cup end pushrod has never been an optimal option as it introduces pushrod sweep into the system. It also adds to the cost of the pushrod.
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The spring pressure with the rocker arms is something to watch, but the spring pressure with the heads is something that really has to be focused on. Large spring pressures will pull traditional rocker studs clear out of the heads and I’ve had it happen at 600 lbs with aluminum heads. If you have no desire to cut the heads and go to a T&D race rocker, I would look closely at putting a bigger insert in those heads.
My rockers are made by Harland Sharp but I had them put a cup pushrod seat in them so that pushrods are easier to get. A cup end pushrod has never been an optimal option as it introduces pushrod sweep into the system. It also adds to the cost of the pushrod.
Hi Brent,
Here are the specs of my heads done by you.
Thoughts ?
If you think T&D is the right rocker, I’ll go that route.
Thank you !
Does anyone know the T&D part number by chance ? (I’d like to just get the rockers as I’ve got new shafts end stands etc)
Here's the specs for your heads:
*BBM Ford FE castings
*SI stainless 2.190", 11/32" intake valve, 1.650", 11/32" exhaust valve
*45° seat, 30° back-cut on intake
*Chambers measured at 72.8cc
*Valve spring install height nominal 1.920"
*Comp 731 titanium retainers
*Comp 4776 spring locators
*Comp 611 valve locks
*Comp 529 Viton valve seals
*PAC 1245 valve springs
*Valve spring pressures 285/635
*Coil bind at 1.200"
*Coil bind clearance .070"
*.095" retainer to seal clearance
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The T&D race rocker requires head work. The head has to be milled down on the top so that a common bar can be placed on it. The bar is held down by the head bolts/studs and individual paired rockers bolt to the common bar.
You can't buy individual T&D rockers that will work with any shaft and stand. Most of the T&D rockers have needle bearing fulcrums and do not use standard FE shafts.
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The T&D race rocker requires head work. The head has to be milled down on the top so that a common bar can be placed on it. The bar is held down by the head bolts/studs and individual paired rockers bolt to the common bar.
You can't buy individual T&D rockers that will work with any shaft and stand. Most of the T&D rockers have needle bearing fulcrums and do not use standard FE shafts.
Aww yes. I do remember that.
Thanks for the reply
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I saw the Shelby ones being made at a place called Rocker Arm Specialist or Specialties... in northern California. They had all sorts of rockers that were other brands for uncommon engines like Kenne Bell Buick ones and some Volvo and MG ones .
So they are US made. The Chinese have found a way to make paper mache look like metal.
Redding, Ca. : http://rockerarms.com
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The T&D race rocker requires head work. The head has to be milled down on the top so that a common bar can be placed on it. The bar is held down by the head bolts/studs and individual paired rockers bolt to the common bar.
You can't buy individual T&D rockers that will work with any shaft and stand. Most of the T&D rockers have needle bearing fulcrums and do not use standard FE shafts.
Will you be doing a batch of adjustable rollers anytime soon Brent ?
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I saw the Shelby ones being made at a place called Rocker Arm Specialist or Specialties... in northern California. They had all sorts of rockers that were other brands for uncommon engines like Kenne Bell Buick ones and some Volvo and MG ones .
So they are US made. The Chinese have found a way to make paper mache look like metal.
Redding, Ca. : http://rockerarms.com
Thank you !
Spoke to them today (Gary)
Definitely going to give them some business in the future
Thanks again!!
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The T&D race rocker requires head work. The head has to be milled down on the top so that a common bar can be placed on it. The bar is held down by the head bolts/studs and individual paired rockers bolt to the common bar.
You can't buy individual T&D rockers that will work with any shaft and stand. Most of the T&D rockers have needle bearing fulcrums and do not use standard FE shafts.
Will you be doing a batch of adjustable rollers anytime soon Brent ?
Since I found out that POP offered their rockers with a cup adjuster up in the rocker body, I quit offering the special adjustable ones from HS.
With that being said, I’m direct with HS and can request about anything if someone wants it, but if I were going to that length, I would use Doug’s rockers first.