The turbo injection pump puts out more fuel than the NA pump. Running it with an NA engine overfuels the engine thus raising EGT's. Dunno if you swapped IP's or not. The advance curve is also different with the turbo pump. Of course all the advance curves sucked on these.... much power to be gained but not an easy task to adjust as it's fixed via the advance arm. With the early 7.3's always get a pyrometer.
The CDR valve can puke oil into the engine if it is worn or stuck open.... typically this oil ends up in the back two cylinders (4 and 8 ) You can often hear/see this on cold startup as there will be a pop pop sound for a second while the oil burns. Make sure there is a real baffle for the cdr connection to the valve cover, without it they end up with a good bit of oil in the cylinders. This can melt/break things.
To turn the fuel down in the pump there is a triangular window on the driverside of the pump, three 5/16th bolts hold it in place. When you remove it fuel will spill out, so have a rag.
You'll need a mirror to see into the pump. Turn the engine over until you see a small allen screw head (I think 5/32 allen? It's been 12 years). You can turn that to change max fuel output. (I can't remember which way, I think it is counterclockwise to reduce, clockwise to increase). It will be tight, so best to use a socket/allen combo.
I'd put the turbo back on tho... I like turbos.
Also make 100% certain your timing is dead on. It needs to be set with a luminosity probe or a pulse probe. That is what the funky injector thingy on the #1 injector is for. Timing is critical and more than just lining up the marks on the housing. (speaking of which, NEVER remove the gear housing when changing the injection pump).
Another fun fact of the DB2 injection pump..... as it wore internally the timing would retard. I discovered that by increasing fuel pressure the timing would advance. I could prolong a rebuild of these pumps by either advancing the timing or using an electric fuel pump and a regulator.... by increasing the pressure every year another psi or so I could get a huge amount of longevity out of these pumps.
I used to redo the injectors myself... it isn't hard with emory cloth and a homemade pop tester that I built out of a grease gun. Pressure is simply set via shims. Brand new injectors I'd always retest at 20,000 miles as they'd be all over the map after they broke in.
On the 89 F250 I had, I had an ats turbo, a highly modified injection pump and an intercooler. I could make 18psi boost.... it was a beast. That truck could get 22mpg light and 15 towing. Driving by pyrometer was the key..... 600 was typical cruise temps, 800 was a light load and I would pull longterm at 1000degrees with no issue.... Climbing a hill I'd just slow down as the temp would hit 1200. Never over, had 100,000 miles driving it just like that with the above setup.
I loved it, but couldn't justify keeping it when I went offshore (which is why I got into FE's).
I commend you for sleeving all the bores. I think in that situation I would have sourced a 6.9 block and swapped all the upgraded 7.3 parts on that engine. The 7.3 is simply a .110 overbored 6.9 anyway, thus why the 7.3 had cavitation issues. The 7.3 had better rockers, glowplug system, etc.
I would tune the combustion pressures on these in a somewhat redneck way... I was poor, and didn't have much in the way of resources. I wired up a glowplug to a multimeter and would read resistance off it while driving. It didn't give temperature, but the temp changes would change the resistance in the glowplug. I would test each cylinder this way until I could get all the cylinder running the same for a perfectly balanced engine. Took a long time.... but I had plenty of it back then.
Any other questions, just ask.... but I might be a hair foggy as I sold my last IH 7.3 idi in 2006
