Hello all. I am working with a 1967 428PI, all stock, factory dual point distributor, factory dual quad intake.
I attempted to remove the distributor today to replace the seal.
The distributor is in excellent condition, no corrosion, or damage.
The clamp and bolt removed easily.
The distributor turns easy, and lifts about 3/4" easily too, and then seems to hit something inside.

This is making removal difficult to say the least.
I tried to nudge it a bit, wiggle things and work it out, but it feels like a hard mechanical stop.....so I quit rather than damage things on this particular distributor.

What in the heck is keeping this otherwise free floating distributor in the engine?

Thanks and have a great day.

I am considering an emergency generator and I would like any useful input you think is prudent.
I am versed in the electrical field enough to determine my electrical load needs so that is not too difficult.
I have worked with generators before so that is nothing new to me either.

What I would like to hear are those things you learned while using a generator in a time of need.

For instance, would one bigger generator be a better choice than two smaller generators?
Are there other brands that are as good, or maybe even better, than a Honda....Cuz man those Hondas are super quiet and run very well....but they are also $$$$.

Is a diesel powered generatot worth the extra cost? I currently drive a diesel powered truck so having a diesel generator may be a great travel asset too.

The main intention for the generator is a major power outage where I need to run my furnace.
While the furnace is the main concern, I know other electrical items will want to be run as well once the generator is up and giving power.

It is worth it to incorporate a power in port to my house electrical system so I can run the generator to the house circuit? I already have plenty of amp capable extension cords.

I also know, once this generator is an option, I will likely use it elsewhere simply because I have it available for use....You know how that goes.

Anyway, what are your "helpful hints" you would use to source an emergency generator?

Thanks and have a great day, and Merry Christmas.

My daily driver truck is a 1990 F-250, 2WD, standard cab, 8' box, 7.3L IDI diesel. It has a mid-ship 18 gallon tank and an aft of the rear axle 18 gallon tank.

The rear fuel tank rusted under one of the tank straps to the point of leaking due to a small rock getting lodged in there and wearing things away......DANG IT!

I have been looking at options and it appears my best bet will be to replace the tank rather than repair this tank. This one could be repaired but I don't know if it is the best option.

Anyway, I am asking about your experiences and thoughts for tank replacements, along with the other associated items for the job.

In my searching so far it seems SPECTRE is the only maker of aftermarket tanks at this time.
I have had pretty lousy results with SPECTRE offerings in the past and would like to seek other options if they exist.
The tanks they offer describe the exterior finish as "paint" rather than being galvanized.
The "galvanized" tanks I have used from SPECTRE were all marred up from the forming process which pretty much negated any usefulness in the galvanization.
I also see some poly tanks being offered but I don't have experience with those in a truck.

Another option is the tank size.
I am thinking about installing the big 38 gallon rear tank but wonder if there are hidden issues for installing something so much bigger than the factory planned tank.
I already keep the spare tire in the bed and I do have a class IV receiver hitch...but it does not appear like that would get in the way.

If you have good references for proper sending units, tank rings and seals, filler hose, tank straps and any insights on the use of the 38 gallon tank over the factory 18 I would like to hear what you have to say.

I have already looked at Rock Auto and Summit, as well as the local auto parts stores who all offer the same exact stuff.
I talked with our local Gas-Tank-Renu also. Still waiting for his reply.

Thanks and have a great day.

Well it happened, I was using my trusty old Craftsman advance timing light (P/N: 161.2194) and the inductive pickup clamp found its way to the exhaust manifold.
Now I have a nicely melted inductive pickup clamp...$#@@!!&&*^!!

I have searched around but can not come up with anyplace selling either a universal replacement clamp, or the exact clamp for this timing light.

Does anyone have any useful places where I could source such a part?

I believe this particular light was made Feb 1996 (there is a tag reading "B-96") and it still works perfectly, other than the new modification.

Thanks for any and all help and have a great weekend.

I am having trouble with a carb that has a vague return to idle.
Here are the details so far.
Autolite 4100 (1.12 if it matters) in excellent rebuilt condition.
I can adjust the idle with precision both up and down in rpm.
There is no binding with any portion of the carb linkage. (each portion has been isolated in an attempt to find a fault)
There is no binding with any portion of the cars throttle linkage. (each portion has been isolated in an attempt to find a fault)
There are two good return springs.

I have verified the butterflies are not touching anything during their sweep from full open to full closed, including the gasket or the intake runner.
I have verified nothing on the carb is loose or bent (throttle lever rivets, shafts, butterflies on the shaft, choke step up cams and so on)
The throttle screw, and its spring, are in good order.
I have verified no part of the throttle linkage is having any identifiable issues.

Everything about this carb, and its set up, appears to be in order yet here I am with a weird idle that seems to alter itself at will.
The idle is a bit finiky when cold, but when warmed up a little things are good (this is more choke than anything else I suspect, as in I don't use the choke at start up, I just baby the throttle for the first few seconds until things settle in)

But when driving around I may pull up to a stop sign and get my "set" idle, or I may get an idle that is a few hundred rpm higher.
The odd range is in the 700-1200 range and never above that.
Sometimes it settles into the set idle slowly too.

I have even checked the system for worn spots that may have a ridge or groove in any part of the linkage that is hanging up, or acting like a variable cam, but nothing like that was found.

I have dealt with many different reasons why a throttle may not return to the same position, but in this particular situation there is nothing that shows itself as the culprit.
Something is there, I just can't seem to see it at this time.

Any good suggestions about what to check.

Oh, this is a rod and lever throttle linkage, no cables.

Thanks in advance.

I have a pair of new, never installed, reproduction cast iron shorty headers made to copy the C1AE-9431-C originals.

They have been ceramic coated in dark cast iron grey.
They include the collector studs and nuts.
They have never been used so they are still as nice as they were when delivered.

I would post photos but dang, I can't seem to figure that out on this forum.
If anyone needs photos I can text you images....that I seem capable of accomplishing.

Asking $1,100, which includes shipping.
Reasonable offers will be considered.
Located in the Twin Cities area of MN.

Shop phone: 612-280-5560.
Please leave a message, and a good time to call you back.

Thanks and have a great day.

I have a 1965 289 HiPo that needs a rebuild.
It is currently running okay but a refresh is in order.

I am wondering if changing some internal parts will hurt the collector value of the finished engine.

I will certainly keep anything external that has a numbers matching casting.

But what about installing forged pistons, or an aftermarket crank and rods, a camshaft and rocker system?
Will changing these parts hurt the value?

Of course anything that gets removed will be kept as part of the "kit" for this particular car.
That way all the factory parts are still available, even if they are not currently installed and being used.

Some of the potential changes are simply to use newer parts that have not been cycled so many times over the last 56 years.

Thanks for any insights.

I have a Borg Warner T10 manual transmission that needs rebuilding.
My local transmission shop is no longer in business (retired...good for him)

If you know of a good shop that can rebuild one of these please let me know.

I can search for "shops" but I would rather learn about a shop that someone has had good service from than just finding any shop.

Thanks and have a great day.