Author Topic: breaking in a solid cam question  (Read 3853 times)

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NewFalconOwner

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breaking in a solid cam question
« on: December 14, 2013, 09:42:18 AM »
I have a 352HP from a 60 tbird, was rebuilt 4 yrs ago (10.5compression,etc.), and the guy pulled it out last yr and put a 390 in his bird to sell and I got the motor. Anyways,,

I have a custom grind comp solid flat cam, lifters ,chain, adjust rockers, ect..  but still has the stock C0AE heads on, but I want to put the solid in.. Ive read a lot about removing inner springs on recommended valve springs, so would it be safe to assume, I can install the solid cam and parts and use the stock valve springs in the 352 heads for break-in purposes, and when my C4's get rebuilt I can just swap heads and not worry about it when I do?

machoneman

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Re: breaking in a solid cam question
« Reply #1 on: December 14, 2013, 09:52:28 AM »
I'd say go for it. One could pull one or two springs and measure the spring pressure open but with a well-used head, they likely aren't even close to the originally low factory specs when new.
Bob Maag

NewFalconOwner

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Re: breaking in a solid cam question
« Reply #2 on: December 14, 2013, 10:19:07 AM »
thanx,, once the chain shows up,, I will get things organized,  :)

rcodecj

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Re: breaking in a solid cam question
« Reply #3 on: December 14, 2013, 01:30:55 PM »
I would at least check for coil bind because the results could be bent pushrods and resulting damage.

NewFalconOwner

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Re: breaking in a solid cam question
« Reply #4 on: December 14, 2013, 01:37:23 PM »
yeah thanx, good point

My427stang

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Re: breaking in a solid cam question
« Reply #5 on: December 14, 2013, 02:02:31 PM »
I would at least check for coil bind because the results could be bent pushrods and resulting damage.

Bingo, I seriously doubt the stockers will handle anything over about .530 lift, and if you run lash loose, you'll be hammering the lifters so hard it is probably better to just run the big springs
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Ross
Bullock's Power Service, LLC
- 70 Fastback Mustang, 489 cid FE, Victor, SEFI, Erson SFT cam, TKO-600 5 speed, 4.11 9 inch.
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NewFalconOwner

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Re: breaking in a solid cam question
« Reply #6 on: December 14, 2013, 02:14:03 PM »
so I should wait till I get the heads done, or at least springs good enough to run the cam.. few more months wont hurt I guess lol

Ididntdoit

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Re: breaking in a solid cam question
« Reply #7 on: December 14, 2013, 02:54:15 PM »
Sorry for the hijack but you say you have c0ae heads now (i assume c0ae 6090 c) and your changing to c4 (I assume c4ae 6090 g) aren't the the same head? If not, whats the difference? Has anyone flowed both? For that matter the c1ae 6090 a heads look exactly the same too...

NewFalconOwner

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Re: breaking in a solid cam question
« Reply #8 on: December 14, 2013, 06:23:08 PM »
they are stock 352 heads, and they are broken on the exhaust ears on each corner, but they work for now. the c4's are H, and they are bare, but I have CJ valves and some port work going on and no broken ears on the exhaust.

and I run the motor every once in awhile to hear it and get motivation. if I pulled them off to rebuild Id still have broken ears and exhaust leaks which sux.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dP8-aoYeyvs

1 carb wasn't working good, but the motor worked awesome before the dual 4 install, but I had to try it out even though a bad carb and no exhaust system and home made headers that had leaking gasket areas