I just changed the single pot to a dual circuit MC in my 64 Monterey last weekend. All new brake lines front to back too.
It might just be 100% in my head but the car just feels like it stops so much better. Much more confidence inspiring driving around town.
There is a brass tee I used that is female 3/8-24 flare on both ends and female 1/8" NPT in the center for the brake switch. I can probably find the part number if thats what you are looking for.
I’m converting the jelly jar master cylinder over to a dual resovior on my 64 Monterey. Staying with manual drums so there is no booster. The new MC has the brake line ports facing the outside of the car. I got the MC bolted up last night to plan out the brake line routing and it looks like it might be a cleaner looking install if the MC ports faced the motor. I can make it work with what I have but I feel like it might look nicer with the ports facing inboard.
For the people with 64 Galaxies / full size Mercs, what port direction did you go with? Can anyone post a photo of their brake line routing coming off the master?
Kit Summary OE Hub Offset: +.18 (Increase / Decrease Track Width) Spindle Type: Factory Drum Spindle Mount Type: Lug Caliper Type: 4 - Type III Ano Rotor Diameter: 11.3 Min Wheel Diameter Req'd*: 14 *This Brake Kit may fit 14-inch wheels. Please refer to the wheel clearance diagram to check to see if it will fit your specific wheel. Wheel Clearance Diagram
Huge thanks to Mike! I wasn't expecting to see a true Ford bushing with the Ford logo. I was expecting to see a machine shop part that someone whipped up. The factory part is a spring / split hollow dowel with the oil hole in the side. A nice piece for sure!
Thanks everyone. I did think about having a sleeve made up to fit around the smaller distributor shaft. I actually made a print for the sleeve and had it quoted by a machine shop. I still might go that route.
Mike stepped up and offered to send me a free bushing they had laying around. The more I think about it if the ID is too tight after I press it in, I can probably push it back out and have it opened up a bit. Takes a few more steps but should be fine. Like you guys said above, I just need to do the math and figure out what needs to happen
Right now I have a FT block in my 64 Monterrey. Larger distributor bore diameter and the 5/16" hex oil pump shaft. I read that the FT blocks can have a busing pressed in to reduce the size down to the standard FE bore so you can run standard FE distributors.
I may pull the motor over the winter to replace the cam and intake and generally clean up the engine and the engine bay. But I did not plan on taking the rotating assembly apart. I'd like to put in the distributor bushing in so I have more distributor options. Basically the only FT distributors are both HEI based. Which is what i have not and I'm not a fan
Does the busing need to be honed to size after its pressed in? Honing it to size is not really something you want to do on a assembled short block (I wouldn't think)
I really need to make it out to this show. I spent a few hours at the Jefferson Wisconsin swap meet a week or two ago and saw a grand total of two FE engine parts. One stock 4bbl intake and a pair of rusty heads that looks like they came out of a lake
Good stuff. Kids (and grandkids) turn simple things into lifelong memories. He'll remember working with you when he gets older Some of my best memories I have are doing little things with my grandparents when I was a kid
My daughter is 4 and loves working with me on the car. Not many kids in her preschool can say they helped change jets on a AFB in a '64 Merc.