I'll second Ross' thoughts.
My first response is that the engine really needs a hydraulic roller. Running a solid roller cam on the street for an engine working well under 6000 rpm is a risk with really no reward, other than the sound. Now, I will say that some guys make it work, and if you're not wanting to put 15-20k miles on the truck, you'll probably do fine. However, for the long run, solid rollers just really aren't the correct choice.
My second response is that switching to a hydraulic roller will require different lifters, as well as probably different length pushrods, depending on the lifters you have now. That's a big chunk of change to shoot for, and I could understand the desire to keep with the parts that you have.
My third response is that whoever spec'd that camshaft needs to go back to Camshaft 101. I may give him the benefit of the doubt that not all necessary information was disclosed to him at the time of ordering, but something with 78° of overlap makes power brakes pretty much useless as you've found out, and can make tuning EFI stuff a little rougher. As a matter of fact, most of the self-learning TBI units actually give you an overlap number to shoot for when ordering the camshaft.
I haven't thumbed through the catalog, but something around Ross' suggestion of 242/242 @ .050" with a 110 or 112 LSA would work really well. You could even potentially match the lift so you can reuse valve springs.
There are several lobes that would get you down to around 60-65° overlap, where you need to be.
