Author Topic: Coolant drain for head swap  (Read 3537 times)

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CDXXVII

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Coolant drain for head swap
« on: December 21, 2013, 10:03:29 AM »
To get the coolant level low enough do I have to remove the threaded plugs from the block skirts?

Barry_R

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Re: Coolant drain for head swap
« Reply #1 on: December 21, 2013, 10:50:16 AM »
You can always try a wet/dry shop vacuum, some duct tape, and a piece of fuel hose slipped through the water pump opening....not that I have ever done that  :)

CDXXVII

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Re: Coolant drain for head swap
« Reply #2 on: December 21, 2013, 01:55:20 PM »
OK so I guess just draining the bottom water pump hose wont do it.

cjshaker

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Re: Coolant drain for head swap
« Reply #3 on: December 21, 2013, 02:17:39 PM »
Pulling the bottom water pump hose will only drain the block to the bottom of the water pump holes.
There's any number of ways to drain the block....like Barry said (or just stick a clear hose in and siphon out), pull the skirt plug out (and then I'll often put a brass drain petcock in its place), or I've just stuck rags in the water pump holes to soak it up.

No matter what you do it seems you always get a little antifreeze in the cylinders. Just make sure to soak it up fast. Then I usually turn it over a couple times by hand and spray a little WD40 around the cylinders to make sure any moisture left doesn't start to rust the rings or cylinders.
Doug Smith


'69 R-code Mach 1, 427 MR, 2x4, Jerico, 4.30 Locker
'70 F-350 390
'55 Ford Customline 2dr
'37 Ford Coupe

cbolze

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Re: Coolant drain for head swap
« Reply #4 on: December 21, 2013, 02:25:01 PM »
Like Barry suggested a hose to a shop vac. I suggest trying to snake a small hose, like 1/4", 5/16 or 3/8 fuel line in through the head, down into the block once you take the intake off, of course at the rear of the head as the head gasket is open there for coolant flow. Some help might be to bend a coat hanger (or stiff rod) to fit into the bottom of the water jacket, then thread the hose over it and then insert into the coolant passage, once in, hold the hose and remove the coat hanger or cut both to length. Removing the bottom water pump bolt on the passenger side will almost drain that side of the block to lower than the holes in the deck (jack that side of the car up?? :o) Otherwise its try to get to the block drains (long extension, with a universal snaked through the headers, steering etc) and hope they will come out :'( Courtney.

Add: As Doug suggested, take off the water pump and vacuum out the coolant from the front of the block. Its just another 4 bolts, alternator, fan and 2 more hoses, minimum, more fun with AC and PS bolted to the front.
« Last Edit: December 21, 2013, 03:50:32 PM by cbolze »

cjshaker

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Re: Coolant drain for head swap
« Reply #5 on: December 21, 2013, 04:39:17 PM »
Add: As Doug suggested, take off the water pump and vacuum out the coolant from the front of the block. Its just another 4 bolts, alternator, fan and 2 more hoses, minimum, more fun with AC and PS bolted to the front.

Since none of my stuff has power steering or AC, I guess it's a tad bit easier for me to suggest that way. I didn't think of that  :)
Doug Smith


'69 R-code Mach 1, 427 MR, 2x4, Jerico, 4.30 Locker
'70 F-350 390
'55 Ford Customline 2dr
'37 Ford Coupe

My427stang

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Re: Coolant drain for head swap
« Reply #6 on: December 21, 2013, 05:01:57 PM »
Pull the heads and wipe the cylinders clean with a soft towel....
---------------------------------
Ross
Bullock's Power Service, LLC
- 70 Fastback Mustang, 489 cid FE, Victor, SEFI, Erson SFT cam, TKO-600 5 speed, 4.11 9 inch.
- 71 F100 shortbed 4x4, 461 cid FE, headers, Victor Pro-flo EFI, Comp Custom HFT cam, 3.50 9 inch