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Messages - blykins

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61
Non-FE Discussion Forum / Re: Over torqued Eagle rod bolts question.
« on: March 01, 2024, 01:40:00 PM »
Bolts work off of stretch and they all have a specified window that they need to be ran in.  For an ARP 8740 bolt, 64lb-ft gets them to the specific stretch window they need to be in.  I've never torqued an 8740 bolt to 80 lb-ft, so I don't know what it would do, but if it were me, I'd replace them all.  If you have put them all into some degree of plastic deformation, they are pretty much time bombs.

62
FE Technical Forum / Re: Valve stem groove
« on: March 01, 2024, 01:01:57 PM »
Typically don't need lash caps or hardened tips unless it's titanium or a hollow-stem stainless valve.  600 lbs of open spring load isn't enough to hurt a stainless valve, unless there was not enough lubrication. 

I'm leaning toward an incorrect heat treat on the valves.

63
FE Technical Forum / Re: Trickflow heads - gone for good?
« on: February 25, 2024, 05:40:06 AM »
Pond blocks are in stock, have Trick Flow Tunnel Wedges in stock.....

64
Can a hydraulic roller be reliable in the 6500-7000 range.  ?    Existing combo wants to run to 6500 with a flat tappet and want to duplicate that without fear of cam failure.  I really don’t mind a solid flat tappet if it can be made reliable with today’s offerings

Yes.  I have many hydraulic roller engines out there in that rpm range. 

Towd56, a member here, has one of my 390's with a hydraulic roller in his Galaxie wagon. Has made over 250 passes and has put 4000-5000 miles on it.  Launches at around 5000 rpm, shifts at 7000.  Factory non-adjustable rockers.

Solid flat tappets can certainly be reliable.  Pretty easy with a good lifter, such as a Crower EDM lifter. 

65
In a mild street build with a pressure fed block, where is the line drawn between hydraulic roller and solid roller?   I don’t mind the noise or the inconvenience of rocker adjustments.   And then what is the opinions of roller bearing lifter or bushing roller?

It's all in the definition of a mild street build.  If your mild street build is meant to turn past 6500-7000, then I'd use a solid roller.

Just know that a hydraulic roller lifter can last for a hundred thousand miles or more.  A solid roller is exposed to extra spring loads and valve lash, which essentially pound the bearings/bushing over time and they will need to be rebuilt. 

66
FE Technical Forum / Re: toploader shifting
« on: February 22, 2024, 11:55:03 AM »
Sounds like the blocking ring/gear teeth are not getting along. 

First though, what trans fluid are you running?

67
Brent

A while back there were discussions on several forums as to Morel lifters ( turned into a brawl )

IIRC, the answer was the correct weight oil was not being used

Can you give some insight into your experience with Morel lifters ( hydraulic and solid )

I am selling my storage collection of stuff and concentrating on one mill this time


Ricky.

Morel hydraulic lifters are setup with tighter operating clearances than most.  They are pretty picky on oil viscosity. 

Oil viscosities around 5W-20, 5W-30, 10W-30, etc.  will usually be happy.  I'm looking for my kinematic viscosity information that they work with, but haven't found it yet and I'm not confident enough to rely on memory. 

I usually use a Valvoline VR1 10W30 or a Lucas 5W20. 

68
FE Technical Forum / Re: Deck with water jacket rods/pins showing
« on: February 21, 2024, 05:40:48 AM »
Normal.

69
FE Technical Forum / Re: Valve adjustment
« on: February 20, 2024, 05:53:38 PM »
I'm similar.  For iron block/aluminum head combos, you can pretty much count on .006" difference between hot and cold.  I've never seen the lash change here on an iron/iron combo.  The all-aluminum stuff will swell up big time, about .014-.015". 

70
Since Edelbrock owns Comp Cams, you can pretty much bet it's ground by Comp Cams.   But I've never used one. 

One side note that I'll throw in here:  I've sold a couple hundred cams in the past year or so and not one single one of them has been on a 110 LSA.  The 110 LSA is about as universal as it gets, in an attempt to find a cam that would kind hit the high spots of a bunch of different engines.   With the onset of higher performing cylinder heads that don't need as much overlap, the correct camshaft for a lot of applications will be 113-114-115 LSA.  On some factory headed applications, I'll either be on the higher side of 110 for some mild applications, or to make the old factory iron sit up and talk, I'll be on the lower end (106-107-108-109).  I did two FE's in the past several months that even had 116-117 LSAs. 

I know that I've also said this 16000 times, but you can't count on the "RPM Range" to be anywhere correct.  There are many, many, many variables that play into where a camshaft puts the peaks, including displacement, cylinder head flow, etc.  That camshaft may pull to 6500 in a 352-390, but it wouldn't get within 10 miles of 6500 in something like a 482-496. 

71
Brent
I never thought of priming with the intake off. I was taught the other way but will try it on my new build in a couple of months.
Greg

You don't know how many issues I've caught over the years from priming with the intake off.  Issues that would have required me to pull the intake completely off, ruin intake gaskets, etc.  I also put the pushrods and rockers on so I can make sure I'm getting the correct amount of oil up top and I can check the amount of lifter preload I have while I'm doing that. 

1.  Check oil flow/amount of flow.  Easy to adjust lifter restrictions, if used. 
2.  Verify lifter preload (mostly important with non-adjustable rocker arms).
3.  Check lifter function (easy to grab a rocker arm and try to push the lifter down while/after priming).  If you were to catch a bad one, it's really easy to swap it out. 



72
I've seen this happen on extremely rare occasions when a factory block has a big, deep chamfer at the top of the lifter bore.   I use mainly Morel lifters and just don't see many issues on a large sample size. 

I really wish I could get everyone in the habit of priming the oil pump with the intake manifold off, just to see where the oil is going.  95% of issues would be caught, but lots of guys like to put the entire engine together, stick it in the car, then prime the pump.

73
FE Technical Forum / Re: rod bolt lube
« on: February 19, 2024, 05:40:32 AM »
I think the robins egg blue stuff is Lucas Extreme Pressure Synthetic Grease

Yep, I believe you're right.

74
FE Technical Forum / Re: rod bolt lube
« on: February 18, 2024, 01:27:29 PM »
Most of them are marked L19.  Some of the rod manufacturers private label them, so they may be a little harder to find. 

75
FE Technical Forum / Re: rod bolt lube
« on: February 17, 2024, 03:25:45 PM »
Brent, are the L19 bolts the ones than can be damaged from the oils of your hands? Seems kinda scary considering the bolts have engine oil spraying all over them.

Indeed.  Hydrogen embrittlement. 

I know of 3 instances right off the top of my head where the bolt heads flew off.  Once on an idling engine.  Twice on engines that were still on the engine stand with the rods torqued.

Avoid at all costs.

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