FE Power Forums
FE Power Forums => FE Technical Forum => Topic started by: sixty3 on October 19, 2016, 12:43:23 PM
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http://milwaukee.craigslist.org/pts/5790741824.html
Not very knowledgeable on differential's only changing a few out in my time, specifically 9". I Have been exchanging emails with owner on the above full spool. I'm just looking for some cheap HP when I go to the track 2-3X's a year. I've done some searches on telling the difference between mini vs. full and thats about it. What should I be asking owner or looking for when I go see it?
THANKS Kevin
This is going in:
1963 Galaxie hardtop, 2 door
TKO 600
390, Stock bore and 2V pistons, RPM performer, Heads mildly cleaned and ported by me, headers, Comp XE262 cam
3.50:1 Posi traction lock w/ 31 spline
Currently has Holley 750 secondary that I'm working with. Had Edel. thunder series 650CFM
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Well, the 9" pictured in that ad has a stock carrier, not a spool. It may have a "mini spool" swapped inside, but I would never use one of those. Since the 9" case is a common single rib unit, I think 500 bucks is way too much.
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I would also recommend staying away from a mini-spool; seen too many of them break the stock carrier.
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Thanks guys!! I'm that bad couldn't even tell from the picture. Would have ruined my day as its 3hrs one way drive to look at it.
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Since I'm on the subject what would board members feel is the "best" gears for my current combo? Can't see me building a 445 anytime soon, at least not for 3yrs; but plan on it one day. Once I keep my promise to the wife and "attempt" to make her happy ( well both of us ); almost 20yrs since we bought house, very close to being paid off and would like to gut and update it.
Have been checking out complete packages for bolt in center section, around $1k. Not sure if I find a good core if I can build or have built locally cheaper? Figure I live in Central IL, corn country and my 13 mile commute to work is a nice 8mile freshly blacktop road.
Figure running a 28" slick / street tire out bck
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What MPH have you been running at the track, and what RPM do you shift at?
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Try this site:
http://www.sriperformance.com/Used-Ford-9-Inch-Rear-Gears-s/640.htm
Some on the other FE Forum have purchased used JNASCAR gears for about $150, added a new Detroit Locker and yoke to their old center housing for way less than $700. Roush's stuff and other NASCAR teams have all seemed to settle on about $1,100 for a ready-to-run center.
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What MPH have you been running at the track, and what RPM do you shift at?
Sorry its taken me this long to get back, couldn't find my best time slip , and I don't have that many.
Best MPH is 90.87
Have been shifting at 4k rpm. I know now I can go a little higher.
These numbers most likely are not best yet, as I just discovered this year my Edel. carb was starving me on fuel. Tried a "Frankenstein" Holley 750 and new immediately what my next needs to be.
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tru-trac or Detroit locker .... maybe tru-trac in your application .... if your 445 is for torque than big HP don't go more than 3.50 gear for just a couple times at the track a year .... as long as your torque converter matches your power band then rear gear selection is not as critical as a manual transmission car would be ... edit , just saw the TKO 600 ( darn bi-foculs ) ..... what overdrive does your TKO have ??
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Good question I haven' t been able to confirm and don't have any documentation when purchased. I.D. tag on tko is " TR3550-9 MA16 TCET4617 AE 0030"
Also remember I currently am running a 3.50 tru-trac. I can't see placing a 445 in there any time soon, so wanting a better gear to play with in the mean time for cheap fun.
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I don't think I would bother changing it. All gearing does is help with off the line traction. With your combination you should be able to get some decent 60' times as is. My biggest disappointments have always come with gear changes. Expecting to drop a few 10ths & nada. Gears don't change or make HP. they just help hooking up. If you look at the math formulas for 1/4 mile performance, nowhere in them is the rear ratio. The only way to go faster is less weight or more HP. Low gears are cool with a stick, makes you row through the gears, but you are not really going faster. Just my opinion, and that's usually wrong.
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Brent just got back with me, I have .82 overdrive.
Shady opinion are always welcome on my block as I'm totally new to this. Just trying to get a bigger fun factor out of my big heavy car ;D
That and I can't believe its taken me this long to discover the track.
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That Craigslist chunk is priced way out of line. I'd offer $300 tops for it.
Have you been keeping an eye on racingjunk.com? Lots of 9" stuff available. Some guys like to trade chunk for chunk too. Check out the link.
http://www.racingjunk.com/Other/182753936/3rd-Member.html
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I currently run 3.89 s in a moser center section , with a tko 600 with .82 o d , which means my final gear is 3.18 s , with a 26.7 inch tall tire at 65 im tach ng 2600 rpm , and i love the detroit locker ..
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A lot also depends on your tire that you use at the track.
If I use the same tire on the street and the track I tend to be more conservative with the gear.
If you are using a track slick only and then use a street tire when on the street
I feel you can be much more aggressive with the gear.
It's enough to deal with real sticky tires on a sticky track.
Street tires all I do is try and not spin them.
So no hammer drop. ;)
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Best of both worlds would be , 1 set of street tires , and a set of strip tires , if street strip only and like Howie said stay conservative with gear , or set up a couple different center sections .. Bud