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Messages - ChiefDanGeorge

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31
FE Technical Forum / Re: Blew either head or intake gasket
« on: March 14, 2017, 03:30:09 PM »
Sorry about the sparse info. Was on way to work meeting and haven't had much chance to do anything worthwhile, Just checked the oil and saw the milky white mix and first guess was a head gasket gave out.

Quote from: Drew Pojedinec on March 14, 2017, 03:24:05 PM
Impossible to answer given the info you've provided.

If it was me.

-off with the valve covers.  inspect
-remove spark plugs.  inspect
-remove intake.  inspect
-finally get to the heads if nothing else seems obvious.

32
FE Technical Forum / Blew either head or intake gasket
« on: March 14, 2017, 02:37:37 PM »
I'm still in the process of building new motor(I am slooowwww, paranoid of making mistakes) but the motor in the wagon blew either a head or intake gasket. Found water in the oil and the idle vibration is really bad.
I'd like to fix the issue, but I don't want to do any machining on the heads. Would it be ok just to pull heads and replace gaskets as a temp fix? I'm hoping this kicks me into finishing the other motor, but I really don't want to screw something up rushing.

33
FE Technical Forum / Re: Timing cover install/balancer spacer
« on: March 08, 2017, 05:58:35 AM »
Good deal, thanks for the reply!
Quote from: Barry_R on March 07, 2017, 09:04:58 PM
Smaller diameter goes into the seal.

A dab of Teflon paste will work nicely on most of the timing cover bolts - All the top ones go into oil (valley), and some of the ones alongside the water pump go into water.  I have seen others where even a couple of the lower bolts get "wet" so I got into the habit of pasting them all just for confidence sake.

34
FE Technical Forum / Timing cover install/balancer spacer
« on: March 07, 2017, 07:32:00 PM »
I'm test fitting the timing cover(seal installed) and spacer and am unsure if I have the correct spacer. Which part of the spacer should be at the seal? Mine is on the smaller diameter part of the spacer, that doesn't seem like it would seal well, I thought it would go up to the transition(where it goes from the smaller diameter, transition, then larger diameter) on the spacer. I've got the Ford racing full roller timing setup so I am wondering it that gear is wider causing the spacer not to seat where it should.

Also, is there a diagram showing which bolt holes should get sealant?

Hopefully this makes a little sense, I just could not find any good diagrams on this step.

35
FE Technical Forum / Re: Intake manifold gasket question
« on: February 02, 2017, 03:59:20 PM »
Thanks for the recommendation!
Quote from: Joe-JDC on February 02, 2017, 11:54:54 AM
Those are the print o seal gaskets, which are prone to deterioration and leaks shortly after installation.  I would suggest the Edelbrock 7224 as a better fit and better sealing gasket over the long haul.  JMO, but you asked.  Joe-JDC

36
FE Technical Forum / Intake manifold gasket question
« on: February 02, 2017, 05:37:57 AM »
Fel-Pro sells a 1246 and 1247 with the difference being the port size, and the 1247 just lists 390 FE as engine compatibility:
1246: 2.34 in. x 1.40 in. Port
1247: 2.10 in. x 1.40 in Port

I measured the ports on the manifold and Edelbrock heads and both are around 2.0625", so to me that seems to be a 1247. Am I missing something and should order the ones with the larger port?

Thanks!

37
FE Technical Forum / Re: Timing gear install
« on: January 03, 2017, 08:22:37 PM »
Filed the keys to fit and then took the dremel out and filed down the tops on both and now gear and spacer fit nicely.

38
FE Technical Forum / Re: Timing gear install
« on: January 03, 2017, 08:52:11 AM »
Good deal, thanks!
Quote from: blykins on January 03, 2017, 05:56:47 AM
The key for the balancer has to be short. 

Push the spacer on and bottom it out against the timing gear, then just measure how much snout you have sticking out past the spacer and cut the key for that.  Should end up being around 3/4" or so.

39
FE Technical Forum / Re: Timing gear install
« on: January 03, 2017, 05:50:54 AM »
Sorry for the continued question  bombardment, but I'm still confused on the balancer spacer. The keyway for the balancer is 1/4" and on the Scat crank, it's about 2" long. I cut a key 2" long but then realized the spacer covers part of that keyway. Is that normal? So I should cut the key down to just the length of the remaining exposed snout for the balancer?

40
FE Technical Forum / Re: Timing gear install
« on: January 02, 2017, 12:44:19 PM »
Got it off, pulled the woodruf key out and then did a bit of filing on a new key.
The issue is still the spacer keyway is just not very deep. Seems like with the woodruff keys I got from O'Reilly, I'd need to do quit a bit of filing.

41
FE Technical Forum / Re: Timing gear install
« on: January 02, 2017, 06:03:33 AM »
I've got a washer, but the fuel pump eccentric would hold the dowel in as well correct?

I did try getting the gear to budge with my pry bar, not much luck, will borrow another one today.


Quote from: ericwevans on December 30, 2016, 04:15:55 PM
x2 on the washer to keep the dowel pin in.  I reused the original bolt and washer on my last timing chain install and much to my surprise when I pulled the timing cover a couple months ago the dowel pin had walked out enough that it had made minor contact with the cover.  As I said, it had a washer on it and since it was the same one I pulled out I never checked to make sure it covered the dowel pin and come to find out it didn't, so double check that on your install.

42
FE Technical Forum / Re: Tell me about counterweight plugs
« on: January 02, 2017, 06:01:30 AM »
COuld try one of those rods you can drop in distributor hole to spin the oil pump. Although if the issue is in the bottom end it's not going to be visible.

43
FE Technical Forum / Re: Timing gear install
« on: December 30, 2016, 07:23:21 AM »
Do you know what the brand is? The couple I saw with right angles where either not deep enough or way too thick to get behind the sprocket.
Quote from: blykins on December 29, 2016, 05:53:35 PM
I'm with Ross...you can use two pry bars, but it sure makes you feel silly...LOL  I do have a gear puller that will pull one off.    It's not a 3-arm, but just a simple 2-arm puller that has right angles on the ends instead of the curvy slide-hammer style fingers.  It's deep enough to swallow the snout.

44
FE Technical Forum / Re: Timing gear install
« on: December 30, 2016, 06:36:35 AM »
Thanks for the info! I was getting confused the more I read about the washer and the one YouTube video I watched that showed the assembly, the guy was using a washer.
What I am still not sure about though is the spacer. Does that one need a half height key?
Quote from: My427stang on December 29, 2016, 05:14:59 PM
1 - You do not need a washer behind the cam gear, that was for early timing sets, not sure anyone even sells a top gear like that now, and definitely not for the FMS roller.  However, you do need a washer on the cam bolt that captures the dowel from backing out.

2. SCAT cranks use Chevy-style woodruff keys.  However, I have had to grind/file all but one down, the one I didn't I used an old key, so it could have already been ground or shaped differently.  Some guys run only one, I use both slots for the timing gear along with the key stock for the balancer.

3. The oil slinger has been a debate for a long time.  I cannot say definitively that you NEED one.  However, I have never seen one leak without one (which is what I thought it was for) However, Blair brought up oiling, and looking at how it fits into the timing cover with the lip above it, I can confidently say that I think it directs more oil to the lower gear.  I used to use them because I thought it protected the seal, now I use them because I like the way it directs oil.  However, I know many guys successfully leave them out too

4. If I have a stuck lower gear I use 2 small pry bars at the same time, they usually move easy enough, although you feel silly trying to use two bars at the same time :)  However, if it is fully seated against the crank, and you can get the top gear on, then you could leave it.  Often I find that if the lower gear isn't all the way on it is easier to slide the top gear onto the dowel.

45
FE Technical Forum / Timing gear install
« on: December 29, 2016, 05:07:47 PM »
I could really use some pointers and info on installing the timing gears on my 390 build. I got the Ford full roller timing setup.

I've been reading and searching but I cannot find out for sure if I need a washer behind the cam gear. I've got the thrust plate setup, using a '69 ish block.

I've got a Scat crank and an original balancer spacer. The keyway in the spacer is not very deep, and is a different width than the long keyway at the end of the crank snout. There is another keyway in front of the one for the crankshaft gear, is that the one the spacer uses?

DO I need an oil slinger on the crank gear?

I got the crankshaft gear on, however I can't get it back off, not sure if the woodruf key is a bit off, but gear won't seem to budge. Not really sure I need to get it back off as I can get chain and cam gear on, however anyone have any advice on pulling one? I borrowed a 3 arm puller, however the gear is too small for the arms and of course with the snout, the smaller gear pullers don't have enough length to reach the back of the gear.

Sorry for the bombardment of questions, had a buddy helping me, but he's gone awol and I am trying to get this build done and this is my first build.

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