I have an issue with the power steering pressure hose pulling out of the fitting. The other Ford big block,Saginaw pump set at 1100 psi, -6 double sheathed stainless braided hose rated at 1500 psi, not sure of the fitting brand. Anyway,the hose eventually worked it's way out of the fitting for a really nice oil down. The guy wants to keep the braided look to match everything else.  So the question...any of you have any recommendations for braided hose and fittings suitable for high pressure hydraulic type situations?  Thanks!

I have this 3U crank with 1 3/8 snout. From what I've read,it's an FT steel piece. Sounds exciting but since it would go into a car with a toploader, not really sure of the pitfalls. Balance,accessory brackets,pulleys....or should I dump it and find a car crank? It's a really nice standard crank and would probably stay that way if it's usable.   Thanks!

For sale...most of the parts needed for a 4 speed conversion. All parts came from the same 69 Torino S code April build car. The car took a bad side swipe and has been parked since the middle 70s. It had actual 50k miles. The trans was excellent when disassembled, needed nothing but seals and gaskets.No wear on any rods or lever holes,all original hardware. The bell and block plate have some pitting on the bottom edge,inside only on the bell and not seen. Shifter was disassembled,detailed,new spring installed, handle is decent,some pitting on the bottom which would be covered by the boot.I could go on...lot of stuff here. Take a look. Everything is ready to install,really nice.No paint on anything that wasn't painted originally. I would like to sell everything as a lot and will ship at buyer's expense in one crate on a pallet but prefer pickup from 51103. Be easier for me and price will reflect that. Looking to get $3500 but will consider offers.  Thanks!
Toploader RUG C2,close ratio
Original shifter with handle,original backup light switch that works
FE Z bell housing and clutch fork,all threads good,no wear on pivot
Pedal assembly,swing bushings and holes perfect,working original brake light switch
Clutch release lever and rods,bronze bushings,frame bracket a little rough but usable,missing block bracket and push rod
Flywheel,resurfaced,new ring gear
Floor shift steering column,mounting brackets,original working signal switch,very nice wheel pad
Trans cross member,all rust chemically removed.
Mirror 105 block,tested,crank,rods,all standard,other engine parts
Richmond 4:33 9 inch gear set. USA made. Maybe 200 miles. Just throwing this in,too tall for what I was doing

Pictures to follow when I figure out how to post them.

The subject is a 184 tooth ring gear replacement on an original 390 flywheel.I have done a few of these on other flywheels but never a 390.So far I've heated the gear to 400 degrees in the oven.It almost goes but not quite.The flywheel OD is 14.250 and ring ID is 14.220.You would think at that temp it would expand enough to slide on but no.I now have the flywheel in the deep freeze but doubt that will help. Any ideas?  Thanks!

The problem...Have two halves of a cast aluminum fuel tank held together by screws. The original sealant was a hard drying semi clear stuff that was also very effective adhesive. Any ideas??

WTB...A pair of 14 bolt GT exhaust manifolds.Any year or casting number would be OK.  Thanks!

The block has 4 expansion-core plugs at the back but the plug kit I have has screw in pipe plugs for these so I guess I will be using them. The question(s)...It looks like I need to use a 7/16 drill in the holes for the pipe tap. How deep do I need to drill or do I need to drill at all? The block has a dribble valve behind the cam gear that I would like to knock out for cleaning that passage.I'm worried that I will damage the valve or not get it back in right.Is this thing necessary?   Thanks!