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Messages - jayb

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31
Doug, the valves are 2.25/1.71.  I don't know the chamber volume, but would guess it would be around 68cc - Jay

32
Starting to sell some of my stash of personal items.  This is a complete cylinder head package for an FE, with the best parts I could buy when I purchased them in 2006.  The heads are the Blue Thunder medium risers, the early ones, not the ones with the huge rectangular ports.  I purchased these CNC ported from Barry R at Survival, and used them on the supercharged engine in my Mach 1 that I ran at Drag Week in 2007.  I don't have flow data on these heads, but when I bought them Barry said they flowed around 360 cfm on the intake, and I have no reason to doubt him. 

Since the engine was supercharged I went with Inconel exhaust valves for durability, and normal stainless steel intakes.  I had the chambers and valves coated at Swain Technologies, and fitted the heads with springs that were much heavier on the intake due to the 17 pounds of boost I was running from the centrifugal supercharger.  The T&D rocker system, which is a dedicated system just for the Blue Thunder heads, uses the standard 1.75:1 ratio, with no extra offset on the rockers.  On the dyno, with an air to water intercooler, the engine made 1030 HP.  In the car, I couldn't get the intercooler to fit where I wanted, so it only made about 900 without it.

After Drag Week I had the heads gone through in preparation for reassembling the engine with them, but got bit by the high riser bug and went that route in the car.  So, these heads have been sitting in plastic since about 2008.  They have a new valve job, new surfacing, and several new valves because some of the old ones showed stem wear.  The ports were also cleaned up in order to remove the CNC tooling marks.  If you look carefully at the pictures you will see that the exhaust side of the heads has also been relieved about 0.100", in order to provide more clearance for the headers (Blue Thunder heads have the exhaust ports raised up just a little, so extra header clearance is good).

The valve springs, retainers, spring seats, and lash caps are included in this package.  The exhaust springs measure about 180 pounds at 2.000", and 520 pounds at 1.300".  The intake springs measure 280 pounds at 2.00", and 640 pounds at 1.300".  This is using my somewhat questionable spring rate checker; wouldn't surprise me if they were off a bit one way or the other.  The retainers are Comp Cams titanium retainers, and the spring seats are Comp steel seats. 

The T&D system requires oiling through the pushrods, so I am also including the pushrods that went in the engine.  Some of the pushrods have some rust spots on them that I've wiped away with WD40 and a Scotchbrite pad.  I would not hesitate to use them again, but you may be fussier than me.  There is one nut missing on the T&D setup; its got to be around here somewhere, but I have not been able to find it yet.  Also, when you purchase the T&D setup they provide washer-like shims that can go under the rocker bar, to adjust rocker geometry; I don't have those either, but they could be easily obtained at McMaster Carr.

This is all really top shelf stuff that I had more than $8K invested in when new.  I want $5500 for the package.  I will not separate it.  Shipping is extra.  I can take a personal check, and also a credit card, but if you use a card I will have to add 3.5% for the credit card fee I get charged.  Pictures are below.  You can message me here, email me at jayb@fepower.net, or call the FE Power number at 952-428-9035.    Pictures are below, and thanks for looking - Jay






































33
Non-FE Discussion Forum / Re: Valve spring at 8500 rpm.
« on: February 07, 2024, 04:16:45 PM »
What's really interesting is how much the valve stem itself moves around.  Certainly the head end of the valve is doing the same thing; argues for a lot of radial clearance from the valve to the piston eyebrows...

34
I've measured a few of my CP pistons, they are always at about 0.200".

35
FE Technical Forum / Re: Electric versus Flex Fan
« on: January 16, 2024, 11:12:50 PM »
I usually put mine in the intake, as close to the thermostat as there is a pipe fitting.  You can use a Tee fitting, sitting flat, to accomodate your original temp sender plus the sensor for the electric fan.  But Gerry's way is better, if you have a thermostat housing with a pipe fitting in it. Only downside there is if the thermostat sticks shut, you won't see an accurate temp at the sensor.  Of course, with no flow through the radiator, what good would the fans do LOL!

36
FE Technical Forum / Re: Electric versus Flex Fan
« on: January 16, 2024, 03:24:02 PM »
I always run 2 Spals, big as I can fit, with an on/off pressure switch in the water jacket.  Usually on at 180F, off at 170F, or somewhere close to that.  No shroud, to avoid blocking airflow through the radiator at high speeds.  Works great, even on my 1000 HP Drag Week car.  I've never had an electric fan failure.

Jay how do you find no shroud in traffic I am thinking of removing mine I have no problems in traffic but on long highway drives I am sure my shroud is killing the airflow even with large airflow flaps

The Spal fans come with their own circular shrouds.  Never a problem in traffic, even on a hot day.  In most of my cars I end up with one puller and one pusher.  Two pullers is better, if you can fit them.

37
Member Projects / Re: 67 Mustang Pro Street
« on: January 16, 2024, 09:36:06 AM »
Leny, on my computer you can right click on the picture and select Open Link in New Tab.  This will show you the whole picture.

Gonna be a very impressive car, that's for sure...

38
FE Technical Forum / Re: Electric versus Flex Fan
« on: January 16, 2024, 09:25:07 AM »
I always run 2 Spals, big as I can fit, with an on/off pressure switch in the water jacket.  Usually on at 180F, off at 170F, or somewhere close to that.  No shroud, to avoid blocking airflow through the radiator at high speeds.  Works great, even on my 1000 HP Drag Week car.  I've never had an electric fan failure.

39
FE Technical Forum / Re: Electric versus Flex Fan
« on: January 15, 2024, 10:24:38 AM »
+3 on Spal fans.  At low speeds the flex fan turns slowly, and will not pull the same amount of air as a couple of good Spal fans.  Beware, many of the other electric fans out there don't pull a lot of air, despite their promising cfm ratings...

40
FE Technical Forum / Re: Cam retaining plate bolt question
« on: January 12, 2024, 11:44:19 AM »
All the original bolts I have seen are actually Philips head bolts.  I usually replace them with hex head bolts, and torque them to 40-45 foot pounds - Jay

41
FE Technical Forum / Re: engine balance
« on: January 09, 2024, 08:37:52 AM »
You might have to have the pins fit to the new pistons, your shop should at least check that.  No reason you can't reuse them though.  All your piston/pin combinations should weigh very close to the same, so if you are +/- 10 grams with the old ones you don't need to rebalance.  Probably a good idea to mag the rod where you dropped the valve also...

42
FE Technical Forum / Re: FE oil air bleeded valve
« on: January 03, 2024, 01:32:33 PM »
Have to laugh.  There's so much misinformation on Facebook, how could anybody believe anything that is on there? ;D ;D

43
Non-FE Discussion Forum / Re: Calliope Engine Project
« on: January 01, 2024, 11:17:19 AM »
It would be nice if it was that easy.  But the head bolts are in different positions, and there are tabs on the Calliope block where the inside and outside head bolts go.  Plus there are no water jacket holes in the Calliope block.  I might be able to take a standard block and mock it up with the heads, but I don't think you could run it...

44
Non-FE Discussion Forum / Re: Calliope Engine Project
« on: December 30, 2023, 05:18:15 PM »
The Calliope block has two cams in it so yes, the block will be required.

45
FE Technical Forum / Re: electrical connectors
« on: December 29, 2023, 09:30:15 PM »
I use the individual spade connectors available from the electrical department of Menards or Home Depot.  The ones you want have the yellow plastic on them, and you can just crimp them on some 12 gauge stranded wire.  Tie wrap the two wires together, and you have an inexpensive solution that works just fine - Jay

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