Self exciting 3g

[Hipopinto]

Hey all

I spent most of the weekend messing with my galaxie

I converted the mechanical fan to a Lincoln mark VIII two speed

With minor trimming and some slight radiator mount mods it fits as if it were made for that vehicle!

I also plan to re wire it this winter and add halogen head lamps and a decent sound system so I am going to add a 3g tuff stuff alternator

My question is are there any reasons “not” to add a self exciting one wire regulator?

It would really make the install cleaner and easier as the electric system in this old girl is questionable at best!

Also “could” I get by with this fan and the stock Alternator for a few weeks providing I’m not out at night (head lamp drain)

The only other “electric” item in the car is my ignition, wipers, heater and break lights

I just never drive it at night or in the rain

I guess I had a few questions to ask there!!!

Thanks again guys

Dave

[Falcon67]

Get a 100ish amp 3G unit and hook it up using the OEM 3 wire connections.  One wires are for race cars without full OEM harnesses IMHO.  You can remove the regulator and all the associated wiring also.  Battery, sense and the green/red from the OEM dash light are all that's required.  My large case OEM unit was $45 at the recycling yard and sees 12,000+ RPM twice every pass.

[TomP]

 I don't even like the idea of one wire alternators. That goes along with HEI distributors and Edelbrock carbs and other street rod silliness. Not always a good idea but monkey see - monkey do.

Two extra small wires are not going to mess things up too much and will function properly.

[Hipopinto]

Ok

I’m just asking at this point but do one wire units perform different than traditional units or is it personal preference

Again I’m curious more than anything

Thanks guys
Dave

[turbohunter]

There’s a very old thread from the Ford trucks forum about this conversion. Seeing the diagram may help.

[KMcCullah]

 I used a 3G alternator on the F-100. Mainly for the sake of simplicity. For the purists (dad and TomP) it doesn't look right. But it does make for a clean installation with a 1 wire conversion kit I found on ebay.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/ALTERNATOR-3G-REGULATOR-CONVERSION-KIT-For-FORD-3-to-1-ONE-WIRE-SELF-EXCITING/291120146332?epid=550827856&hash=item43c81ce79c:g:TkMAAOSw9N1VlLl8

[Falcon67]

Depending on how it's configured, one wire setups may have to be "revved" to get the alternator to start charging.  With a more factory type connection, they start working as soon as the car starts.  The sense wire (yellow) tells the regulator what the draw is on the system and allows it to compensate.  You can see that when I hit the switch on those big dual FT1 fans - the voltage takes a dip when the fans spin up but the regulator pushes the system voltage right back up where it should be. 

>Edelbrock carbs and other street rod silliness.
Having run a lot of the Ed carbs, I gently take exception.  They are excellent units for many applications. 

[Hemi Joel]

I have used one wire alternators before, and I don't like them. They don't start charging unless you rev it up. A regular three wire alternator starts charging instantly. Some of the  problems I experienced was with an automatic choke. When I stepped on the gas to rev it up and get the alternator to start charging, then the automatic choke releases the high idle. That foils any attempt to let the car warm up on high idle. And if you got a little bit more duration in the cam, it doesn't want to idle until it warms up, so that high idle  is needed.
In my circumstances anyway, I don't see any big deal about two extra little wires going to the alternator.

[Royce]

I thought all those MoPars still had manual chokes....

[Hemi Joel]

Royce, this was on my old Elcamino with a 500 Caddy motor and an edelbrock carb with an automatic choke.

[Hipopinto]

I removed the 1G alternator and regulator

On my car the “factory” wire to connect to the alternator is green with a red stripe

This is power on with key I will connect to the on wire of the alternator

I’m running a 6 gauge wire to the solenoid and the third wire is pre terminated with a ring terminal to connect to the power cable coming in

It’s essentially a two wore set up but utilizing more factory wires

I hope to get the install completed this weekend and have the whole thing up and going

I will keep you all posted my only concern is the potential of a “squeaking” belt but I’m not going to worry until I hear it

Thanks for all your help guys

Dave

[351crules]

I used a 3G alternator on the F-100. Mainly for the sake of simplicity. For the purists (dad and TomP) it doesn't look right. But it does make for a clean installation with a 1 wire conversion kit I found on ebay.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/ALTERNATOR-3G-REGULATOR-CONVERSION-KIT-For-FORD-3-to-1-ONE-WIRE-SELF-EXCITING/291120146332?epid=550827856&hash=item43c81ce79c:g:TkMAAOSw9N1VlLl8

who's pulleys?

[KMcCullah]

The alternator is a 135 amp unit for a '95 Mustang. It came with that pulley. The crank pulley is a March 7611 for a BB Chevy. Had to slot the bolt holes a little to make it fit the damper.

Also---This alternator charges at the blip of the key up to idling at 950rpms. 14.2 volts. No revving required.

[Hipopinto]

Hey All

I got the alternator installed with a single V belt pulley and it seems to be fine

I checked voltage before we started the engine and it was 12.4 volts

While idling it was 14.4 so its working!!!

No squealing or funny issues yet

Thanks
Dave

[chris401]

I used the same set up pictured above. Bought a rebuilt unit, I believe it is for a Ford Taurus. The exciter wire runs through the OEM ALT dash bulb.

[unclewill]

I installed the 200amp Powermaster 3g one wire in my Torino Cobra and is fantastic.  Runs two derale fans, Fitech efi, Walbro fuel pump, heated power seats, msd ign, +everything else no problem.