Best way to strip off multiple layers of paint?

[AlanCasida]

I have finally gotten to the point that I am ready to paint my '65 Mustang(FE powered). It has at least 5 layers of paint that needs to be removed. Since I am replacing the doors, fenders, hood, front/rear valances and the most of the rear quarters there's not a whole lot left to strip but it does need to come off. What is the best way to do this? Can I feasibly sand it off or would chemical paint stripping be better. I have the option of taking it to a place that media blasts cars. I know the guy and they do good work but it's not cheap.

[jayb]

I tried chemical stripping once and apparently I did not do a good enough job of completely rinsing the stripper off the car, because some of it was left hiding in some seams (like in the door jam area where the door skin wraps around), and when I painted the car it came out and wrecked the paint in that area.  If you've got all the trim off the windshield and back glass, then I guess I wouldn't be afraid to use it in your case, but beware of that potential problem.

Alternative a day with the DA and some 120 grit will get the job done...

[cjshaker]

Be careful using a DA to strip outside sheetmetal because the heat buildup can cause waves or warping on unsupported large flat areas of the outer skins. Especially if you're trying to remove multiple layers. Chemical stripping is usually best for multiple layers, but it can take a few times depending on how many layers and what kind of paint is used. And like Jay said, stick to the outside sheetmetal when chemical stripping. It can get in seams and is very difficult to wash out and neutralize completely. Chemical stripping the outside sheetmetal, then, after, DA the outer and any inside surfaces (where the curves and bracing stop any warping) is usually the best way if you don't go the media blasting route. A final seam and groove sanding by hand will remove the last areas the DA can't get to.

Sometimes I never want to see another sheet of sandpaper again in my life...lol

[Heo]

Sometimes if you heat the paint with a hot air gun
you are able to tear it of like a vinyl sticker right down
to the primer the more layers of paint the better.
Heat a spot and cut with a razorblade to get started
and just peal of and heat as you go
The paint strippers we have in Sweden nowadays
dont work on anything but waterbased paint
If you go with DA sander use as coarse paper as possible
(less heat build up)and keep the sander moving
 till you are down to the primer then
go 80-120

[jmlay]

My car was stripped with a razor blade only.

[Drew Pojedinec]

I was gonna second Heo's advice.
Propane torch works well too if used sparingly and lightly.

[AlanCasida]

Thanks for everyone's input. Tonight I decided to try the razor blade method(since it seemed the least messy) and the paint literally flew off the roof of my car. In a little more than an hour I had the whole roof and some of the trunk stripped. I didn't get to bare metal though. All that is left is a layer of paint/primer(not sure what it is)that is chocolate brown in color and it didn't want to come off so I left it.

[Heo]

my 65 mustang had 14 layers of paint when i bought it
and it was 16 years old. Say it was not repainted the first
couple of years when it was new. Then it was repainted
one time a year ...like an old wooden boat

[mlcraven]

I have recently been through this, having stripped the entire Cyclone down to bare metal.  After experimenting I finally settled on a Porter Cable 6-in variable speed random orbital sander with 40, 80 and 120 grit paper. 

Obviously, it doesn't have to be a Porter Cable tool, but I went the electric route because my air compressor doesn't have the capacity to run a DA sander.  The result was excellent, quick and thorough through multiple layers of paint and old bondo -- although it does kick up a lot of fine particulate into the air and makes a heck of a mess if you're working indoors.  A good mask is essential -- heaven knows what was in some of those old paint products.

On smaller items with compound surfaces, such as the fender extensions, headlight pots, cowl grates and various sheet metal struts and brackets, I used a local media blasting service.  Simply threw all the parts into a box as I disassembled the car and then took the lot off to be blasted.

On the basis of experience with previous project cars I am not a fan of chemical strippers for large surfaces -- I find it takes multiple applications, is time consuming and very messy.  And no matter how careful I am I inevitably end up with the toxic crap on my skin.   I'm not adverse to using strippers on smaller objects where blasting isn't an option, for example, stainless of aluminum trim that has painted surfaces or requires the removal of damaged clear-coating (drain cleaner can be used for this).  Also, on metal that has a lot of surface rust it is worthwhile using a rust neutralization agent -- I prefer Naval Jelly.

Finally, after a single experience of doing it, I will NEVER again have an entire uni-body car media blasted.  I had media (sand, in this instance) coming out of the car for literally years afterwards -- and it's my observation that no matter how diligent you try to be in blowing it out before paint you never get it all.

Good luck with the job.