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Messages - jayb

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1
Member Projects / Re: 67 GT500....Eleanor 482ci build
« on: May 10, 2024, 07:32:08 AM »
Welcome to the forum.  I have seen a lot of damaged engines, and one cam that was broken in two pieces, but I have never seen one broken into five.  Any idea what caused the failure?

2
FE Technical Forum / Re: When to pull an engine for health check and oil temps on long highway driving
« on: May 08, 2024, 08:28:59 PM »
I always run a 160 degree thermostat and try to keep the engine temps at 170-180 or less.  I think if I wanted the engine to go 100K miles I might be inclined to run a higher temperature, but in the vehicles I have the engines will never be driven that many miles, so that kind of longevity is not a concern.  I like the fact that at the lower temps I am far away from any potential overheating issue, and of course the engine will make more power at lower temperatures, so that is a plus.

3
FE Technical Forum / Re: When to pull an engine for health check and oil temps on long highway driving
« on: May 08, 2024, 10:43:27 AM »
On pulling the engine, I wouldn't bother with that at any time.  However, I would recommend pulling the solid roller lifters at around 8K-10K miles, and either replacing them or getting them rebuilt.  Provided they have the pin oiling feature, and the lash is under control, they should be good for at least that long, but you don't want to take a chance of one of them failing.

Synthetics handle heat a lot better than mineral oils, but even at 230 degrees I don't think you are pushing the envelope too hard.  At Drag Week in 2016 I ran 250 degrees all week, with Valvoline VR1 10W-30.  I changed the oil once during the week just to be cautious, but it looked fine when it came out.  This was with a partially filled Shelby block, and no oil cooler.  I was uncomfortable with it at 250, so I will be adding an oil cooler to the car,  but when that engine came apart after the event it looked brand new inside. 

4
Member Projects / Re: 57 Yr wait for a Dream Car? 1966 Cyclone GT 390
« on: May 07, 2024, 08:56:07 PM »
Beautiful car, and one of my favorite Mercs.  I did have one back in the day, some pics are below.  I bought it with no engine or trans, painted it black with the stripes and stuck a 429 SCJ engine and C6 in it.  Did pretty well in the street race wars back then; I told everyone it had a 351C ;-)  After it was in the pictures shown, I ended up tubbing it and putting in a full cage with the intention of bracket racing it, but the local track closed just when I was getting it finished up.  I ended up selling it; another one that got away.  The one photo shows me next to the car, 40 years and 40 pounds ago LOL!










5
FE Technical Forum / Re: 427 Ford Steel Cranks Does Cammer take a different crank?
« on: April 27, 2024, 02:57:38 PM »
The SOHC can use any FE crank.

6
FE Engine Dyno Results / Re: Lykins Motorsports 434ci Clevor, 777 hp/630 tq
« on: April 23, 2024, 09:08:24 PM »
I'd rather not see every run of the mill non-FE engine, but an interesting build like this one is OK.  No Chevys, though  ;D  Would love to see head flow numbers and cam specs on this one...

7
Non-FE Discussion Forum / Re: Air Fuel Meters
« on: April 15, 2024, 06:20:16 PM »
I've had poor luck with Bosch wideband O2 sensors, they seem to wear out quickly.  Ballenger Motorsports makes a good unit, and you can upgrade to an NTK sensor, which I have found last a lot longer than the Bosch.

https://www.bmotorsports.com/

8
FE Technical Forum / Re: max spring pressure with aluminum heads
« on: April 06, 2024, 09:42:20 PM »
I use EZ Loks, same inserts I use in my cylinder heads.  I would pull out the helicoils and drill and tap for EZ Loks.  I've had poor luck with Timeserts, have had them crack and come out.  On my tunnel port heads I use EZ Loks with a 9/16-12 outside thread and the 3/8-16 inner thread.  Jim if you want to stop by sometime I will show you what they are like.

9
FE Technical Forum / Re: max spring pressure with aluminum heads
« on: April 06, 2024, 06:17:15 PM »
I would put in some inserts, there's really no downside to doing it and you'll get some peace of mind that way - Jay

10
FE Technical Forum / Re: Quench
« on: April 01, 2024, 08:36:41 PM »
Gentlemen,  I think we've all had enough of this argument.  Thanks, Jay

11
Private Classifieds / Re: eBay listing
« on: March 28, 2024, 03:51:39 PM »
If you mean you just want to post a link to an ebay auction here, that is no problem - Jay

12
Private Classifieds / Ford FE Low Riser 2X4 Intake
« on: March 27, 2024, 03:19:45 PM »
Note:  I am posting this for one of our forum members - Jay

Ford FE Low Riser 2x4 intake manifold. Date code 3A2.  Part #C3AE-9425-H. It has not been ported or altered in any way.  It has never been media blasted either.  I ran it on my 390 for many years and have upgraded to a bigger motor.  No issues with it other than on the driver’s side top middle valve cover bolt hole, needs a helicoil as well as the thermostat housing bolts have had 3/8 threaded rod installed. I am including the draft tube cover, thermostat housing, fuel log and linkage. See attached pictures. Any questions please contact me. 

Shipping will be discussed if purchased and based on destination. Willing to meet in the twin cities area for pick up.

$2,000.00
Cash Only!!!!!!!!!!!!!

















13
FE Technical Forum / Re: engine balance (updated)
« on: March 25, 2024, 09:14:43 PM »
Run it, Jim.  My big SOHC ran with one rod 10 grams out of balance compared to the rest, went out the back door at 7500 and I never felt any kind of vibration.

14
Non-FE Discussion Forum / Re: Calliope Engine Project
« on: March 20, 2024, 11:09:25 AM »
I'm not sure what it is, but I'd guess 429-460.  May be different though, it had to fit whatever transaxle Ford was planning to use in the car...

15
Non-FE Discussion Forum / Re: Calliope Engine Project
« on: March 20, 2024, 09:21:48 AM »
Picked up the Calliope heads from the foundry yesterday, along with the tunnel port heads.  Here are a bunch of pictures.  One thing that I did not realize before I picked them up is that the throttle shaft is not open between the runners; the casting is solid all the way across.  So there is no chance to use any of the flex type couplings in the middle.  We may have to either machine the castings to open these areas up, or have the throttle bores gun drilled to make sure they are perfectly straight. 


















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