Bump  **Photos added in post below.**

Barely used Ross forged flat-top pistons and pins.  Used only for dyno break in and 3 pulls. Decided to replaced these with dished pistons to lower compression.

For use in a 428 block bored .032 over (i.e. 4.162" bore) and using 4.250 stroker crank with 6.700" rods (i.e. typical 428 stroker set up).

Here's basic info:
Intended block bore:  4.162"  (428 bored .032 over)

compression height: 1.312
(My 428 block had deck height of 10.155 and this resulted in pistons .020" in the hole)

Weight of piston & pin (no rings): 588 grams

Set up for 1/16, 1/16, 3/16 ring pack

These yielded 11:1 in my 428 engine with 10.155 deck height, 4.25 crank, 6.7 rods, 72cc iron CJ heads, .040 head gasket.

400.00 plus shipping from Texas.

Happy to provide additional info or text pictures.

Thanks
Adrian

Moroso part number 22940.  Bought new but decided not to use a tray in my build.   Never installed but i did notch tray for dipstick clearance.  Happy to text photos to anyone interested.  20 bucks plus actual shipping from texas. 

Soon bolting heads on.  Iron heads and block. Machine shop sent Cometic MLS (.060 x 4.400) 5 layer head gaskets that puts CR at 9.7.   It occurred to me I could also use FP 1020s (.041) that would result in 10:1.   That said,  I’m looking for most fool proof combo...not max HP.   The 1020 seem simpler which is good thing for my simple mind. 

I believe either route puts me in the realm of 93 pump gas. 

I’ve read through posts re: the Cometics and seems the benefit is for high CR or forced induction scenario (definitely not me).  I’m not sure why machinist set me up with Conetic but I assume it was to get the CR well into the mid 9 range...although it seems 10:1 would do 93 octane.

Questio 1  for the resident experts:  FP 1020 or Cometic MLS. 

BTW: machine shop put smooth surface on block and heads.  I noticed on block the area directly between cylinders to very smooth...smoother than rest of surfaces (which are pretty darn smooth). 

Question 2. Can the FP 1020 be used where the RA is smooth enough for Cometics.

TIA

Sold

After dyno sheet showed lean condition during 2 pulls (A/F in 15-16 range), I decided to borescope at Brent's suggestions...which then led to pulling heads off.  I'll deal with shop that ran dyno'ed with lean condition (yes, inexcusable).

After removing heads,  I saw odd, bad, and truly ugly things.  .   I've posted a few photos and would appreciate thoughts/comments from experienced folks on the following:

The Odd:
First thing I noticed was sticky dark oil residue on tops of all pistons and back side of all intake valve.  Also could see on tops of piston oil pattern where it bulk oil was migrating across top of piston much like water on a windshield.  That led to investigation of PCV tubes and fitting (stock CJ resto stuff) where I found evidence of oil.  Oil baffles had been from the stock CJ cast valve covers to clear the rockers.  My understanding if IF motor was inhaling large volume of oil, that would greatly increase chance of detonation. 

The Bad:
Signs of detonation.  I'm no expert of forensics but it appears the detonation was extensive enough to escape the past the head gaskets and leave combustion residue including the sticky dark oil residue on the block-to-head mating surface beyond the metal ring of the head gasket.     

The Truly Ugly:
Two fairly deep scratches in #8 from two small pieces of debris that embedded into side of piston just above top ring.  I don't know if the debris could have been caused by detonation or lean condition.  (Side Note:  When new valve guides were installed, it broke/chipped bits of the head's guide boss as the guide was pressed in. I've always been leary a small chunk of the guide boss could further crack off  and get inhaled.  But I would have expected to see a bigger piece of loose guide boss than the very small pieces of debris that caused scratch.)
 
Pulled the number 8 rod/piston and bearing and crank look fine.
 
At first it appeared I could simply clean up the oily residue and address the PCV issue and retry on dyno  (obviously at different shop) using higher octane, richer carb setting, etc.   But upon discovery of the scratches,  looks like ill need bore job and bigger pistons.

I don't know if the lean condition and detonation caused the debris that led to scratches...of if they're separate and unrelated. 

So I suspect I'll be boring as needed and new pistons.   Dadgum it.       


 

Performance Summary:
      Cubic Inches:  462             Dyno brand: Superflow 901
      Power Adder:  N/A              Where dynoed: Kim Barr Racing Engines/ Garland TX
      Peak Horsepower: 486 @ 5600
      Peak Torque: 525 @ 3800

Horsepower and Torque Curves:

RPM    Torq    HP
3100   519    306
3200   513    312
3300   506    318
3400   505    327
3500   514    343
3600   522    358
3700   524    369
3800   525    380
3900   522    388
4000   519    395
4100   518    404
4200   514    411
4300   513    420
4400   513    429
4500   511    437
4600   508    445
4700   504    451
4800   500    457
4900   498    465
5000   490    467
5100   482    468
5200   477    472
5300   473    477
5400   465    478
5500   463    485
5600   456    486
5700   430    467
5800   375    414         


Engine Specifications:
   Block:  Ford 428 C-scratch,  4.162 bore,  10.155 deck
     
   Crankshaft: SCAT 4.250 cast
     
   Connecting Rods : Eagle H-Beam, 6.700 length, 7/16 ARP 8740 bolts

   Pistons: Ross forged flat top 10.9:1, Moly rings, Gap .018 / .022 2nd ring

   Bearings: Clevite

   Piston Rings: Moly 1/16, 1/16, 3/16   Gap: .018 / .022

   Oil Pump, pickup, and drive: POP blueprinted Melling M-57HV , Stock pick-up, Milodon Drive

   Oil pan:  Stock oil pan,  No windage tray,  CJ oil filter adapter

   Camshaft: Lykins Motorsports, Hydraulic Roller
                   Duration @ .050 227/235  Lift: .553/.564  113 Separation  109 CL

   Lifters: Morel

   Timing chain and timing cover: Double roller (forgot brand) with stock cover

   Cylinder heads: Ford C8OE-6090-N , minor blend behind seats and ports gasket-matched.

   Intake valve: Farrea  2.150 with 3/8 stem

   Exhaust valve: Farrea 1.650  with 3/8 stem
   
   Valve springs brand, part number, specs: Isky 8005A,  135 lbs / 395 lbs   

   Retainers/locks:  Comp Cams 1732 retainers / 616 locks

   Rocker arm: Harland Sharp

   Rocker shafts: POP shafts/stands/spacers/shaft stud kit

   Pushrods: Manton  ball/cup

   Valve covers: Cast finned CJ

   Distributor:  Stock Ford single point/condenser.  36 degrees total advance 

   Harmonic: Powerbond

   Water pump:  Stock

   Intake manifold:: Stock CJ cast iron:  C8OE-9425-C  Ports gasket-matched.  Stock CJ 4 hole 3/8" spacer.

   Carburetor:  Holley 780 vacuum secondary  Jets  72/81 

   Exhaust: Dyno headers with 1 7/8" primary

Need suggestions for jet sizes for an upcoming dyno run using a 780 vac secondary with single power valve on pretty tame 465 CJ

The dyno session will be brief (mostly to break in motor and leak check) so limited opportunity to dial in jetting....maybe just 1 swap.

The motor is fairly tame 465 CJ with mild Lykins hyd. roller, mild ported CJ heads, stock CJ intake.  Will dyno with headers but eventually running stock CJ manifolds in the car.

Elevation <1000 feet.

Stock jetting for  735 on a 428CJ is 66/79.
Stock jetting for 780 (in B302) is    71/82.

Since I'm cross pollinating the 780 onto the CJ...not sure which jets to use.  My gut says leave the 71/82 in the 780 but purely a guess.

I wouldn't be splitting hairs but unfortunately I wont have time to fiddle around much with the jets so am trying to get as close as possible on the first swing.

Hoping guys with dyno experience might have good ballpark numbers.

Thanks all
Adrian




 

Anyone have experience with Petronix line of stock-look:

https://www.summitracing.com/tx/parts/pnx-d7134630/overview/make/ford

I have what I thought was date correct unit built by Tim Oconner.  But turns out I didn't do my homework...70 Shelby GT500's had the distributor swapped to a late '69 date code.  So I'm stuck with a really nice incorrect distributor that I'd rather not stick in the hole.

I'm needing stock-look temporary place holder while I dyno the motor and search for correct date code.  I believe there are dizzy-savy folks around here somewhere.  Thanks