46
FE Technical Forum / Re: oil gallery
« on: March 13, 2024, 03:54:41 AM »
They make extended length taps so that you don’t have to do that. I have a nice sharp 6” 1/4NPT tap.
This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.
Brent, you apparently don't know what a dry seal plug is.
Your short Pioneer plug, is most likely a a dry seal.
A pipe plug thread gauge will keep a lot of people out of trouble in tapping for pipe plugs.
The type of pipe plug that you will need, is called a "Dry Seal". Edit: The dry seal plugs, had a little different taper and that's why they don't go in as far.
In a critical area, you need to use a pipe plug thread gauge to be sure that the thread is deep enough but, as shallow as possible. The gauge has a flat on it, across 3 threads. When you reach those threads, the first is min, next is nominal and the last is max thread depth.
You may not need to drill all the way threw if, you use a pipe reamer. It tapers the hole the proper length for the thread.
I'm prepping a mirror 105 block that has all screw in plugs except the one in the distributor hole. I knocked the cup plug out for cleaning and would like to put a screw in plug in that location. The factory drilled the hole,stopping about 1/16 inch from the lifter bore,leaving a ridge with the ID of the gallery bore. If I run a tap in there it will surely mess up that ridge. Should I go ahead and tap it as is,drill the hole all the way through with a 7/16 drill and tap...or leave it as is and stick another plug back in. It's a nice standard block and I don't want to screw it up.
Thanks!
I've got a new damper (professional products) to go on it when i change the cam.
That would be a significant downgrade. You just need a pointer change. I even have adjustable pointers where you could do it quickly.
If i said the ATI is 20 years old would you still feel the same?
Ive gotta get some rocker shims anyhow, i'll get a pointer too.
I found my notes stuffed in a Christ book, looks like i determined true TDC was about the missile on my factory pointer, not very precise but it'll work for now.
I've got a new damper (professional products) to go on it when i change the cam.