First thought: vr1 10w30 is hard to beat. If you run a carbureted vehicle you should be changing the oil somewhat often due to possible fuel dilution. Kinda puts synthetic out of its range. (My opinion)
Second thought. Zinc is for sliding metals under high pressure. Stuff like flat tappets.
The EMD engines I work on can have NO zinc in it. We can’t even use galvanized piping. 10ppm and the oil needs to be dumped. These engines often go 50,000 hours between overhauls, so obviously zinc isn’t critical to engine oils in all applications.
So oil discussions almost always end up in a fight on forums LOL there is a wide range of "correct" However, I think that Drew's position mostly closely matches mine. I change oil regularly, a little less in my EFI motor, but still often, but it's also flat tappet
In the roller 461 we are doing, I intend to build it to use the same Mobil 1 we use in our minivans, likely not 0w20, but off the shelf 10w30 or 10w40. Not concerned about zinc in any way, I will keep clearances relatively tight and have good drainback.
In the flat tappet 461 on the stand, my 489, and my bench build 390, I run VR1 or Brad Penn, keep in mind, once these pieces are burnished (broken in) you can likely even drop the zinc way back, but I tend to be conservative given the cost benefit and stay with the higher zinc oil, but make no mistake, metal rubbing on metal bathed in oil, makes both smoother and harder. How lucky do you tend to be though LOL I am not willing to try my luck
Last though, Brent brought up a very serious point that I forgot, mostly because I don't do much hyd roller, and until this build, never a Morel in an FE. 20w50 gives the lifters fits, they are machined to tight tolerances and don't like the thick oil. Nothing to do with zinc, all to do with viscosity, and unless bearing clearances are real loose, I don't see any reason an engine would want the slow draining oil anyway. Old school guys like me still look at watery 5w30 and cringe, but if you have the oil film you need, thin is in.