SMF - Just Installed!
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Scott, I've been working on FE heads for most of my life. There are FE valvejobs, and there are infinite other ways to make a cutter. I called it a Chevy valvejob because it looks like widths and angles commonly used on Chevrolet and other aftermarket performance heads. That stuff seems to work on Chevrolet heads........I just know I have some designs that work better on FE heads. Some of my junk works on the other stuff, but I created the cutters I use testing only FE heads. I have several cutters that work for various ideas. I'd call mine FE cutters, and I call the others Chevy cutters.
Quote from: C8WE on December 24, 2017, 05:24:01 AM On my 427 build with as recieved BBM heads and a RPM intake the dyno rang up 450 Hp and about 500 Trq. With hand ported BBM heads, a proper valve job and Blue Thunder intake it produced 525 Hp and 530 trq.I do not know how the TFS will compare yet - they are owned by Summit with obviously a huge budget behind the company. They are cast at the Edelbrock foundry. My Edelbrock contact says that they provide a raw casting and TFS does all the finish work themselves. No idea if and where they did their engine testing - it will be interesting to see some results. I imagine the publicity will come through Summit's magazine relationships - probably see an article in Hot Rod sometime soon with a build at Westech or Grubbs.
On my 427 build with as recieved BBM heads and a RPM intake the dyno rang up 450 Hp and about 500 Trq. With hand ported BBM heads, a proper valve job and Blue Thunder intake it produced 525 Hp and 530 trq.
Quote from: C8WE on December 24, 2017, 05:24:01 AM On my 427 build with as recieved BBM heads and a RPM intake the dyno rang up 450 Hp and about 500 Trq. With hand ported BBM heads, a proper valve job and Blue Thunder intake it produced 525 Hp and 530 trq.A 427 with BBM heads should make more than 450 unless it was a really, really mild build. The closest to stock one I have done was already around 440ish with a set of unported medium risers, a stock 2x4 intake, and a 282S Comp (folks here know that that is a very mild street/strip cam). A set of BBM, Survival, or TFS heads will be significantly stronger than that with a 30 or 40 (or 50?) cfm airflow advantage from comparable cross section.I have flowed a set of BBM heads using the same valves and valve job we use on my stuff. Although BBM is a competitor - the parts appeared to perform quite well and were in the 290s with just a valve job and quick blend - no porting. Similar to my own stuff in terms of flow - single digit differences throughout the curve. I see single four barrel street 445s making 500 pretty often with mine and would expect about the same with BBMs. I do not know how the TFS will compare yet - they are owned by Summit with obviously a huge budget behind the company. They are cast at the Edelbrock foundry. My Edelbrock contact says that they provide a raw casting and TFS does all the finish work themselves. No idea if and where they did their engine testing - it will be interesting to see some results. I imagine the publicity will come through Summit's magazine relationships - probably see an article in Hot Rod sometime soon with a build at Westech or Grubbs.
Quote from: blykins on December 21, 2017, 06:13:54 PMQuote from: Rory428 on December 21, 2017, 03:49:15 PMQuote from: blykins on December 20, 2017, 02:25:33 PMYou split it. You cut it with a razor blade and then stretch it over the crankshaft. Split goes towards the top of the block.So, are you supposed to cut the real main seal into 2 pieces, or make one cut and bend it to get around the cranks flywheel flange? Either sounds pretty sketchy to me. Most 1 piece seals also use a garter spring on the backside of the seal lip, does this one also have a spring? Personally, I have always believed most FE rear seal leaks to be from the side seals or the cap, not tghe rubber seals, so you would still have that area to deal with, if you did somehow get this "1 piece" seal to fit properly and actually work.You make one cut and bend it around. I agree about the side seals.Carl Holbrook had a 'stash' of items that were, or had become, hard to get. He had a paper grocery bag half full of 'rawhide' side seals. You soaked them in warm/hot oil and then slid them in place. They'd swell up and did a better job of sealing than anything I ever saw, with the exception of injecting 'Right Stuff'. KS
Quote from: Rory428 on December 21, 2017, 03:49:15 PMQuote from: blykins on December 20, 2017, 02:25:33 PMYou split it. You cut it with a razor blade and then stretch it over the crankshaft. Split goes towards the top of the block.So, are you supposed to cut the real main seal into 2 pieces, or make one cut and bend it to get around the cranks flywheel flange? Either sounds pretty sketchy to me. Most 1 piece seals also use a garter spring on the backside of the seal lip, does this one also have a spring? Personally, I have always believed most FE rear seal leaks to be from the side seals or the cap, not tghe rubber seals, so you would still have that area to deal with, if you did somehow get this "1 piece" seal to fit properly and actually work.You make one cut and bend it around. I agree about the side seals.
Quote from: blykins on December 20, 2017, 02:25:33 PMYou split it. You cut it with a razor blade and then stretch it over the crankshaft. Split goes towards the top of the block.So, are you supposed to cut the real main seal into 2 pieces, or make one cut and bend it to get around the cranks flywheel flange? Either sounds pretty sketchy to me. Most 1 piece seals also use a garter spring on the backside of the seal lip, does this one also have a spring? Personally, I have always believed most FE rear seal leaks to be from the side seals or the cap, not tghe rubber seals, so you would still have that area to deal with, if you did somehow get this "1 piece" seal to fit properly and actually work.
You split it. You cut it with a razor blade and then stretch it over the crankshaft. Split goes towards the top of the block.
I'll probably submit 3 or 4 articles on these heads over the next year. Not sure if I'll have the first article posted or not but I'll be close. I should have the first one sent in by the end of this week.
The clear covers didn't work out. They aren't long enough to fit over the stands on the Comp rocker arms. And/or the raised rocker stand area on the TF head pushes everything up in the air including the covers. Too bad, I wanted to run a clear cover during the dyno test. I could make one from a valve cover and put a clear top on it but I don't think I will at this point.