AAW Crimpers & General Rewiring Questions

[CV355]

Anyone who has done an American Autowire project, did you use the AAW crimpers they recommend or did another tool serve you just as well? 

I'm seeing a set of Summit ratcheting crimpers with exchangeable dies that is about 1/5th the cost of the AAW crimpers. 

Secondly, I'm looking at routing the heavy gauge cable from a trunk-mount solenoid/battery up to the starter through the passenger sill gutter on our '69 Mach 1.  We have bulkhead connector studs to hide down on the passenger-side engine bay panel next to the fender/starter area.  Unfortunately, the sill gutters only dump out into the passenger compartment and not the cowl or fender areas, so making that jump is what's concerning me.  I'm not too concerned about having the cable in the sill since it's only supplying current in the "Start" position.  Any advice on this, keeping everything waterproof up to the stud position?  Obviously the car won't be driven in the rain, but you know what they say about assumptions...

[Falcon67]

My cable runs up over the rear wheelhouse, along the rocker channel then up behind the passenger kick panel, under the fender lip then down and into the compartment in front of the shock tower.  From there it loops back to the starter.  nothing special in that route, just the way I decided to run it.  Been like that for over 20 years.

I think my crimpers are from Accel via Summit, had them a while. 

[CV355]

My cable runs up over the rear wheelhouse, along the rocker channel then up behind the passenger kick panel, under the fender lip then down and into the compartment in front of the shock tower.  From there it loops back to the starter.  nothing special in that route, just the way I decided to run it.  Been like that for over 20 years.

I think my crimpers are from Accel via Summit, had them a while.

That's the exact routing I'm looking for.  The tricky part in mine (at least tricky to me) is that the sill channel routes up to the kick panel, but it is separated from the fresh air vent area / fender area.  I'm figuring I'll have to drill a hole and pop in a grommet, which is no big deal.  I just wanted to make sure there weren't any reasons for not doing so- it's always what you don't know or don't think of that bites later.

I guess no matter what I do, it can't be worse than what the last shop did to the poor car.  The cable was run along the underbody, through non-grommeted holes, and held in place by a deluxe mixture of self-tappers and wood screws that protruded through the carpet. Classy.

[FElony]

I've done wiring on several thousand cars since the 70's. My recommendation is this crimper: https://www.ebay.com/itm/KLEIN-TOOLS-Forged-Steel-Wire-Crimper-Cutter-Stripper-2005N-/193365991539?_trksid=p2349526.m4383.l4275.c1#viTabs_0

The crimp section is forward of the pivot instead of behind, much better to maneuver with. You can do flat crimps or pinch crimps. The cutter in the nose is far superior to other types. I always stripped my wires with a small single-hole Miller, though. A pro can feel insulation penetration and not rely on fixed-aperture strippers. 45 years later, this exact tool is still perfect with no loosening, breakage, or splitting of the handle grips.

[wowens]

I've done wiring on several thousand cars since the 70's. My recommendation is this crimper: https://www.ebay.com/itm/KLEIN-TOOLS-Forged-Steel-Wire-Crimper-Cutter-Stripper-2005N-/193365991539?_trksid=p2349526.m4383.l4275.c1#viTabs_0

The crimp section is forward of the pivot instead of behind, much better to maneuver with. You can do flat crimps or pinch crimps. The cutter in the nose is far superior to other types. I always stripped my wires with a small single-hole Miller, though. A pro can feel insulation penetration and not rely on fixed-aperture strippers. 45 years later, this exact tool is still perfect with no loosening, breakage, or splitting of the handle grips.

This is my crimping tool of choice also. It also does a good job of cutting wire and crimping wire leader barrel sleeves when deep sea fishing.

[Barry_R]

Klein is what electricians use.  There is a reason for that.
You can also get a nice variety of good quality crimpers from Terminal Supply

[RustyCrankshaft]

I'm using a AAW 22 circuit in my 77 crewcab project right now. I mostly used a set of ratcheting Delphi crimpers that are for that style of terminal, but also have a pair of generic Snap-On and Klien "weatherpack" crimpers that work well, just slower.

I also ended up convertering to a lot of DT series connectors where I could and ended up with a combo of Weatherpack AAW, DT and OEM Ford connectors because I wanted to reuse all my stock Ford switches. I did end up using AAW's headlight switch (which I think is actually a common IH truck switch and probably some GM apps as well) because it will take a stock Ford knob and I didn't have to re-use an old crusty connector that way.

[cammerfe]

I've done wiring on several thousand cars since the 70's. My recommendation is this crimper: https://www.ebay.com/itm/KLEIN-TOOLS-Forged-Steel-Wire-Crimper-Cutter-Stripper-2005N-/193365991539?_trksid=p2349526.m4383.l4275.c1#viTabs_0

The crimp section is forward of the pivot instead of behind, much better to maneuver with. You can do flat crimps or pinch crimps. The cutter in the nose is far superior to other types. I always stripped my wires with a small single-hole Miller, though. A pro can feel insulation penetration and not rely on fixed-aperture strippers. 45 years later, this exact tool is still perfect with no loosening, breakage, or splitting of the handle grips.

I absolutely agree. During the early part of my life, my dad was an electrical contractor. Klein 'side-cutters', 'dykes', and all other wire cutters were 'de rigueur' at our house. Now you can get them on the internet, but I've always bought them at an electrical supply house.

KS

[cjshaker]

I'm glad I'm not the only one that doesn't own, or feel the need to spend, $180 on a pair of crimpers

I use the Kleins also. Even the cheap ones work for me, but the ones posted above are best. I also think it's important to use shrink tubing, for some strain relief and to limit breakage from flexing at the crimp butt. For critical connections, I always solder after crimping (tinned first). For batteries, I always use soldered connectors. If it's soldered and strain relieved, you will never have an issue.

[HarleyJack17]

Maybe I will be the odd one out here, but to me the different crimpers serve a different purpose. The Klein's work well for larger, more common stuff. However, if you get into small wires, lighter duty terminals, that require almost a machine type crimp(for making weather pack connections, etc.) then they do not do what others will do.  For 90% of car stuff they are fine, but there are some instances they do not fair as well.  But it all depends on what you are doing, materials, terminals needed, quality needed etc.  Note: I would not buy expensive crimpers....shop around, don't buy bargain basement, but not gold plated either.

I have found that the quick strippers work well until dealing with small or old wire too....the type you stick the wire in and squeeze the handle fast.....better and faster than the old squish and pull....but then again, I normally use a knife and go by feel unless I am doing a lot of connections.  Soldering I could take it or leave it....

[CV355]

Good advice as always, guys!

I ordered up the Klein crimper along with a rivnut tool so I don't have to use self-tappers anywhere.  Also, I plan on soldering all connections too.