There are lots of desktop calculators for that, just have to google it.  I found that I could figure it out using algebra, once I knew the rollout on a tire, or given rpm limit of an engine, you can work backwards to figure out what is needed.  Tire height is not always a good indicator, but rollout cirumference in inches will give you exact numbers to work with---until the tire grows at rpm--as in slicks.  Joe-JDC.

Roll-out of tire, or circumference of tire always affects final drive ratio.  It therefore affects gear multiplication in every gear.  You will find that you have to start somewhere, and take a particular tire size that fits your vehicle, then change gear ratio in differential to make the most of that combination.  I used a 10.5x29x15 on my '69 Mach I, and with a JPT C-4, I found that my 452MR would cross the line at 7200 with 4.57:1 gears.  If I wanted more rpm, I would go to 4.88:1. You usually have to pick a size and then try it to see how it works.  Go to the track and check out what everyone else is using, and you will save yourself some trial and error.  Engine RPM(stroke/cam/valve springs/carburetion), horsepower, torque, vehicle weight, aerodynamics, all play a part in gear selection.  Just don't select a gear that maxes your rpm out at the 1000ft mark when you still have 320ft more to go.  Joe-JDC

I am still trying to find a decent LR 8V intake with/without linkage or air cleaner.  Carbs not needed since it will not be for a restoration, simply a street engine.  I have linkage and several air cleaner tops, etc.  Joe-JDC

Wanted still:  LR 8V intake for project engine, not for restoration purposes.  Will be ported, so something that has already been massaged but salvageable, would work.  Thanks, again.  Joe-JDC

Weather, inside temperature, outside air source temperature, water temperature at start of pull, oil temperature at start of pull, oil level in pan, bsf reading, total air flow consumed, temperature of exhaust, all things to look at to see if the numbers look legitimate.  Rate of acceleration, time to climb, and timing all affect the outcome.  Just an educated guess, but gaining that much horsepower and torque from 4* timing change seems unlikely.  Joe-JDC.

Not trying to confuse anyone, but if you leave your distributor timed this way, you will be WAAY off in timing.  The spark will jump to the terminal from the rotor as soon as it gets within its power range to overcome the distance.  To start you should have the balancer timing pointer at approximately 10-12* BTDC after you determined TDC on #1 by backing the piston down to the timing mark, then install the distributor with the rotor just before which ever terminal you choose for #1.  The tip of the rotor should be just coming into range of the terminal so that the engine will be timed and ready to start without having to move the distributor around after trying to turn it over with the starter.  The spark will jump the distance to the terminal as it moves in the arc and continue to spark the full sweep of that single terminal, and stop when the rotor moves too far for the spark to cross the gap, then on to the next spark wire terminal, etc.  The current in modern caps lasts longer because of the rotor having a wide rotor tip with an arc to get the most time for a complete burn in each cylinder.  All this happens very quickly, but I have tried to simplify it so you can understand the sequence.  Hope this helps start-up timing.  The light method works well, also if you have a light to connect to the points or module.  Joe-JDC.

FT engines required the distributor bushing.  Not regular 360/390s. Joe-JDC

I would think you will be dooming the block to not being able to replace any sleeves in the future by pouring in a block sealer.  If you have new sleeves, then you will only be able to bore them until they are used up.  Then the block will be a display item.  Is that your plan?  Joe-JDC