Long story short, after owning my Ford GT for almost 20 years, watching the value go so high that I didn't even feel comfortable driving it anymore, I worked a deal to basically swap the Ford GT and a little cash for two Boss 429 Mustangs.  One of them is complete and a survivor, needs paint and a good cleanup, and didn't run well when I bought it, but after some steering and brake work, a new carb (not the one that Drew is doing), and tune up/oil change, it runs and drives great.  Maybe the nicest driving old Mustang I've ever had.  The second car I bought in pieces.  It was totally restored about 10 years and 750 miles ago and the previous owner put a Kaase Boss 429 in it.  When he decided to sell it he wanted to put an original Boss 429 engine in it, which he had purchased new (!!) in 1969, along with a different Boss 429 car.  Anyway the engine needed a rebuild, so he did that, but made the mistake of putting standard bearings on a 10/10 crank    Fired it up on the engine stand and had low oil pressure so he tore it all down.  It was all sitting there when I bought it.  It is a beautiful car, probably the nicest looking old Mustang I've ever had.  I rebuilt the engine, dynoed it (425 HP and 446 ft-lbs, all stock except a hydraulic roller cam), but the carb I got with the engine didn't run right, so I dynoed it with a 750 double pumper I had on the shelf.  I sent the carb to Drew, and glad I did; I would have never thought to look for a gap between the main body and the base plate...

Any roller lifter (solid or hydraulic) can be re-used on a new cam without a break-in period.  Flat tappet lifters need to be broken in to a specific cam, but roller lifters don't.

I think the question was, would it be possible to go .060 over.  The original post says he has no plans to do that.

Looks great Carl!  That car really makes a statement...

I always run a 160 degree thermostat and try to keep the engine temps at 170-180 or less.  I think if I wanted the engine to go 100K miles I might be inclined to run a higher temperature, but in the vehicles I have the engines will never be driven that many miles, so that kind of longevity is not a concern.  I like the fact that at the lower temps I am far away from any potential overheating issue, and of course the engine will make more power at lower temperatures, so that is a plus.

Beautiful car, and one of my favorite Mercs.  I did have one back in the day, some pics are below.  I bought it with no engine or trans, painted it black with the stripes and stuck a 429 SCJ engine and C6 in it.  Did pretty well in the street race wars back then; I told everyone it had a 351C ;-)  After it was in the pictures shown, I ended up tubbing it and putting in a full cage with the intention of bracket racing it, but the local track closed just when I was getting it finished up.  I ended up selling it; another one that got away.  The one photo shows me next to the car, 40 years and 40 pounds ago LOL!

I'd rather not see every run of the mill non-FE engine, but an interesting build like this one is OK.  No Chevys, though    Would love to see head flow numbers and cam specs on this one...

I use EZ Loks, same inserts I use in my cylinder heads.  I would pull out the helicoils and drill and tap for EZ Loks.  I've had poor luck with Timeserts, have had them crack and come out.  On my tunnel port heads I use EZ Loks with a 9/16-12 outside thread and the 3/8-16 inner thread.  Jim if you want to stop by sometime I will show you what they are like.