The EP3 grease is made by CMD. It's what Molnar sends with their rods and it's what some engine block manufacturers like Dart recommend for main fasteners. It's good stuff and I keep it here in big tubes because I use a lot of Molnar rods, but IMO there are some other good lubricants as well.
I'm pretty simplistic in how I torque rod bolts, I just follow the rod manufacturer's instructions for both lubricant and torque specs. If it gives me a torque spec such as 64 lb-ft with ARP lube, then that's what I use. If it says 30 lb-ft + 60° with CMD, then that's what I do. Some aluminum rod manufacturers require just a 50W oil on the threads and under the heads. Some other rod manufacturers focus on stretch only, so you spend a lot of time with the stretch gauge.
I've also noticed that the quality of rod really doesn't affect the lubricant that's required. For instance, I just used a set of Callies Ultra rods ($2400 a set) and they just wanted ARP lube. Oliver (~$1500 a set) doesn't use CMD, they use another brand of lubricant that's colored like a robin's egg.
I personally have never noticed a difference in release torque, only the effort it takes to get a particular fastener to stretch appropriately. But I've also never used anything to measure the release torque either, which is something that the bolt manufacturers would be more inclined to do. There's a big difference between a 1.600" 7/16" 8740 bolt and a 1.600" 7/16" 2000 bolt, one takes 64 lb-ft of torque, the other will end up hitting somewhere around 85-90 lb-ft to get to the 30 lb-ft + 60° spec.
Since different lubricants can change the torque spec, I just use what they tell me to use and do what they tell me to do.
My only real advice about rod bolts is to never use an ARP L-19 bolt. They are bad news, stay away from them.
