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« on: March 25, 2023, 01:03:17 PM »
Additional thoughts following your post. The ultimate additive packages present in some of the assembly lubes, although petroleum based, appear to not respond as completely miscible with engine lube oil in a running engine.
Driven Oil is a quality product, at least in my experience with the synthetic variety, but they seem to employ an extremely slippery additive package and experience says it should be avoided until the rings are seated with a break-in engine lube. Sorry, but I have zero experience with Driven Oil's conventional based engine lube oils.
Strictly a guess, but I would side with you on the recent nature of the introduction of coolant into the engine lube.
The picture of the #8 intake port area seems to me to appear as though both the gasket and the intake have shifted rearward to misalign with the front vertical edge of the port. Perhaps that observation is a photo graphic artifact but the rear bolt hole in the intake gasket also seems out-of-round toward the front side. Are you using the factory alignment pin to locate the manifold or another method? Additionally, there appears that sealant has possibly closed the gap between the intake manifold and cylinder head around the bottom half of the oil return hole and, if that is the reality, delaying return oil from the head could be problematic. Some manifolds have abundant room in that assembled area but others are quite mechanically restricted.
Adjusting the oil pickup-to-pan floor clearance; should be finalized with the pan gasket in place and set somewhere between .290 to .350 range, ideally. The procedure you are using to drain/change your engine oil seems ideal. Good luck.