Well, that's a pretty full set of questions LOL! I will take a stab on at least some of the answers, especially the dyno related ones:
- It has been my experience that there is never enough time to really wring the combination out on the dyno. Even with a dyno in my own shop, schedules to get the engine in the car or get to the track generally cut the time short. This is much worse for most people, who are at the dyno for only 4-8 hours. You just don't have time to try all the different combinations. So you will probably have to figure on getting individual cylinder timing, stagger jetting, and other more advanced tuning work done at the track.
- You are correct that the dyno will get you close, but that you will have to optimize in the car. However, my experience has been that the dyno will generally get you really close, especially with a naturally aspirated engine, so there is nothing at all wrong with running the same settings that you got on the dyno first time at the track (if it is close to the same altitude; see more on that below). On the dyno remember to jet for horsepower! The A/F numbers are a guide, and will get you in the ballpark, but some engines want to run leaner than 12.5:1 - 13:1, and some want to run richer. If you are dialed in right in that range, don't be afraid to go up or down in jetting and come out of that range in the search for more power; your engine may want that.
- I'd suggest you get the A/F in the right ballpark, then run dyno pulls to optimize timing. Most CJ head engines will want 38 to 40 degrees total; make sure when you check the timing you are doing it at an RPM where all the mechanical advance has come in; that's where most of the dyno pull will be taking place. Run some good race gas at the dyno so if you go to far with the timing, you won't hurt the motor; make sure it is the same gas you are planning on running at the track. Start at 36 and go in increments of 2 degrees until you see the peak power start to fall off. Go back a degree at a time to really dial it in. Usually I've found that there is a 2-3 degree band where the engine makes the same peak power, so if you find that set the timing to the low end of that band. After you have the timing set, then start moving the A/F around with the main jets to see if you can pick up power going leaner or richer.
- If the altitude of the dyno shop is dramatically different than the altitude where you are running the car, then you may need to adjust the jetting somewhat from the dyno settings before you run at the track. If you are going up in altitude at the track, you'll be rich compared to the dyno jetting. I think I'd run a pass with the dyno jetting anyway, because it will be rich and you won't have a chance of hurting the engine. Look at the wideband O2 sensor and adjust from there. If you are going the other way, meaning the dyno is at a significantly higher altitude than the track, you will need to jet up to be safe. Just as a guess, I'd say one jet size for every 1000 feet of altitude difference. Again make sure you are running good race gas so you've got some margin for error. Also, main jet size will have a much bigger impact than the air bleeds, so I'd be working with the main jets at first.
- On individual cylinder timing, most of the systems I'm familiar with retard timing in the various cylinders. So, if you start messing around with this, you will need to retard the timing on some cylinders and then advance the timing overall to compensate. Regarding exhaust temps, I have found them to be a poor indicator of mixture and timing, because every cylinder has a little bit different flow path and this affects the exhaust temps. A/F numbers are much better. You don't need 8 O2 sensors, just 8 bungs; do the cylinders one at a time. You will be surprised at how much variation there is from cylinder to cylinder, especially with stock heads and a stock intake. If you adjust the timing on one cylinder and the A/F numbers change, obviously timing will have an effect on that cylinder. But jetting will generally have a bigger effect than timing.
- On my favorite subject (intake manifolds), the PI intake is definitely not the same as the CJ intake, although they are pretty close in power production. The CJ intake usually makes more low end torque than the PI. Neither of these intakes has particularly good distribution, compared to a single plane intake, so stagger jetting may buy you something. I've never experimented with that though, so I can't really say what will work there.
- Finally, there has always been talk of ET to be had by pulling timing out of the engine at the top end of the track. I know some folks who have tried it, and it has never worked for them. But some people say it works. I would say it is combination specific, and maybe worth a try, but not until you get some of the other stuff dialed in.