oil filtration

[oldtimmc]

Hello to all, first post so bear with me. I will be taking delivery of my brandy new Unique Cobra in about two or three weeks from now. The engine is a 447 stroker, solid lifter, 10.2:1 750DP from Southern Automotive. I will be installing an Accusump 2 quart for basically pre oiling only. Bill Parham suggests a motorcraft FL1HP filter. I have been eyeballing the canton CM spin on filter, lots more moola but better filtration. However it does not have bypass or flow back capabilities. So anyone reading this and has an opinion let'er rip.

[afret]

I like the idea of no bypass so use the CM filter.

[machoneman]

If it's good enough for Bill Parham, stick with the FL-1Hp filter.....for those who don't know, here's as short read on Bill's background.

 http://saacforum.com/index.php?topic=20451.0;wap2

[cjshaker]

Personally, I would be a little worried about not having a bypass. It sure sounds good in theory though.

My thinking is this....we all know that resistance is what builds pressure. Resistance in the filter itself is what opens the bypass so that it does two things; first it keeps the filter from building up too much pressure, secondly it lets thicker (cold) oil get to the bearings during crucial start-up periods. So when you remove the bypass, during cold start-ups, the filter may actually starve the bearings of oil by creating a restriction that can't be overcome by the thicker oil. Also, depending on what your oil pressure is, you may actually over pressurize the filter causing damage to the housing or the filter element itself.

If you live in a constantly warm climate and use synthetic oils it may not be an issue. Maybe just a warm climate is enough by itself, I don't know for sure. But I sure would hate to cause bearing damage by lack of oil. The Accusump will only provide oil for a couple seconds at best (but I still think an Accusump is a GREAT idea). I would rather just rely on regular oil changes to keep the oil clean and let the filter and bypass work as they were designed to. Or basically, I would rather have dirty oil circulate through the engine....than no oil at all. That's just my opinion though.

[Qikbbstang]

washable filter peddlers.          You all know you can't have your cake and eat it to. Ditto on the Washable Filters, the reason they are washable in the automotive oil relm is because they have wide open metallic filter media.  Washable comes at the price of requiring wide-open wire cloth or perf filter media. In washable automotive oil filters the pores must large enough to permit washing out the particles.  Sure you can have micro-fine filtration in metal filters like the typical filter paper media, but no mortal is going to wash that fine a metal filter in his garage unless he has ultra-sonic cleaners, lab grade solvents,  filtered pressurized solvent/wash flow all essentially in a clean room.. Please I'd like to hear from anyone that claims they can clean an automotive re-usable filter for less time/money then simply buying a spin-on.

  Here's a company that's been around for decades making state of the art metal filters and they'd go nuts laughing if you wanted one for your car but I'm sure you could get a price $$$$$$$$$$:
http://www.mottcorp.com/resource/pdf/elements_broch.pdf

JMHO------------install a remote dual head filter mount and two of your preferred parts store spin-on filters.  In each filter oil velocity is cut in half, the filter efficiency/capacity skyrockets and differential pressure drops* about as much as all that remote piping will cost you.
*reduced delta-Pres means the by-pass valve will be less likely to open.

[jayb]

From oldtimmc:

First off thanks to AFRET, MACHONEMAN, and CJSHAKER for your replies. I tend to agree mostly with AFRET. MACHONEMAN Bill certainly knows his stuff but you know how us motor heads can get. The motorcraft filter is fine and Bill would probably say something to the effect of "why spend all that damn money on a fancy filter when the motorcraft will work just fine" He is right on the mark. Knows about all things FE. There in lies the illness we are all afflicted by, it's just too much fun to put nicer, shinier parts on things. Bill is a god when it comes to the FE. CJSHAKER the reason I like the idea of the Canton CM filter is that it filters all the oil all the time. Check out canton's site and go to the tech spec page. The filter, even without a bypass valve will still flow more oil through it than the engine cold and a melling pump can produce hence the reason that it doesn't need the bypass. Motorcraft $12.00 to $14.00 VS Canton CM at $150.00 since when does money matter? When you have an illness you have an illness.

[afret]

And the filter element is disposable and the costs about the same as a good spin on disposable filter.  Don't have to mess with cleaning filter elements.

[cjshaker]

After looking at the Canton sight, they don't show much detail on the filter media, but they do say it filters down to 8 micron. That's quite a bit smaller than the typical 20+ for other name brands. They say the better filtering while keeping full flow is due to deeper pleats. Even an internet and YouTube search doesn't come up with any visuals of the internals. It sure would be nice to see some details on it. I'm always a little leary of claims while not showing any detailed info to back it up.

It DOES have an anti-drainback valve according to the Canton websight. And like Afret said, the filter media is replaceable at about the cost of a regular spin-on filter.

It looks like an interesting design and possibly a pretty good product. Canton certainly knows their stuff when it comes to oil management. Certainly something to consider if you don't mind the initial cost. For a road race application, two of these on a remote filter adapter would seem like a pretty good set-up.

But since most info I find on heavy equipment operations says that most of the damaging particles (ash, soot, etc due to combustion contamination) are below 8 microns, I wonder just how well it would work for the average street application. At least compared to an average filter.

[cammerfe]

Personally, I would be a little worried about not having a bypass. It sure sounds good in theory though.

My thinking is this....we all know that resistance is what builds pressure. Resistance in the filter itself is what opens the bypass so that it does two things; first it keeps the filter from building up too much pressure, secondly it lets thicker (cold) oil get to the bearings during crucial start-up periods. So when you remove the bypass, during cold start-ups, the filter may actually starve the bearings of oil by creating a restriction that can't be overcome by the thicker oil. Also, depending on what your oil pressure is, you may actually over pressurize the filter causing damage to the housing or the filter element itself.

If you live in a constantly warm climate and use synthetic oils it may not be an issue. Maybe just a warm climate is enough by itself, I don't know for sure. But I sure would hate to cause bearing damage by lack of oil. The Accusump will only provide oil for a couple seconds at best (but I still think an Accusump is a GREAT idea). I would rather just rely on regular oil changes to keep the oil clean and let the filter and bypass work as they were designed to. Or basically, I would rather have dirty oil circulate through the engine....than no oil at all. That's just my opinion though.

With the electric valve I could watch the oil pressure gauge as I 'dumped' the Accusump in my 390-equipped F-100. The oil-pressure was elevated for as much as ten seconds. Hit the starter as the pressure starts back down.

KS

[Mike Caruso]

Everyone should own one.

[mmason]

Here is a link where they talk about canton oil filters.
http://www.enginelabs.com/engine-tech/engine/a-close-look-into-billet-oil-filters/