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Messages - 338Raptor

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31
FE Technical Forum / Re: Need help with Holley carburetor tune.
« on: June 29, 2020, 10:12:25 AM »
Lance, 780’s have different venturi size for the secondaries, so calculating area doesn’t really work for this particular carb.

Certainly can calculate the area versus the original specs though, given a LIST number and before and after PVCRs

That being said, agree with all above, no need for 50cc and sewer pipe squirters. There are a few 4150 780s, so if you post your LIST number we can give you original specs to start from. My gut says dual 30cc pumps on the street, blue cam on the front if you need some oomph and 25s for squrters, 5.5 or 6.5 PVsr

I will say this, although I think the carb needs some un-loving.  It doesn't seem that crazy that the engine would go backfire and popping lean.  Are you 100% sure no crossfire, crossed wires, vacuum leak, tight intake valve, etc?

Also, is it a backfire through the carb (lean), or bangs in the primary pipe (rich)

I think I would run the valves, look at all the wires and plug insulators, double and triple check firing order, and be very sure you don't have a big vacuum leak somewhere, because although the ports are big on a SOHC, your build shouldn't need a crutch like that. 

Another option would be to see if some buddies good running carb does the same thing without messing with anything other than idle speed

List: 14936
The guy I bought the car from said it’s a 780. That may be incorrect.  I thought List numbers started with an R, this one doesn’t.

1. No vacuum leaks unless the one vacuum port hooked to the PCV valve counts. 
2. Firing order is correct. It runs great otherwise.
3. Timing is at 29 total.  Maybe it’s coming in too early?
4. I know the 50cc pumps and 40 squirters are big but watching my wide band the AFR stays perfectly steady at approx 13 to 1 when quickly smashing the throttle.  It spiked 18 to 1 for 1/2 a second with the 30cc pump.
5. The snapping/popping noise occurs when AFR hits 18 or 20 to 1, not when rich. 
6. Carb has been disassembled, cleaned, holes blown out etc. I’ve done this 2x. 
7. Motor runs good at WOT and Cruising and smash throttle hard acceleration.  It runs super lean when slowly easing into the throttle under light load (when the accelerator pumps aren’t a factor).
8. I haven’t checked valve lash. I need to do that anyway. I’ll do that next.

32
FE Technical Forum / Need help with Holley carburetor tune.
« on: June 28, 2020, 12:26:12 AM »
Need some opinions on what to try next.

To begin, I think my accelerator pumps (both 50cc, yellow and brown cams) and nozzles (both 40’s) are sized right. When I quickly smash the throttle 1/2 way and all the way my AFR stays at about 13 to 1.

At WOT my AFR is a bit rich at 12.2 to 1. I’m not concerned about correcting this until I get my tip in problem resolved (see below).

Details about the carb: 
780 double pumper
73 primary, 78 secondary jets
4.5 power valve.  But I’ve also tried 5.5 and 6.5 with similar results.
PVCR’s drilled to .0625”
10” vacuum at idle, transition slots are not uncovered. Idle = 1000rpm
Burning non-ethanol premium fuel
Float levels are set to mid window. I started with level at bottom of the window and raising it midway did help a bit.

Motor details:
10:1 compression.
Iron 427 SOHC 4V (500ish Horsepower)
Close to stock 1967 NOS cam specs. (Crane says operating range is 2500-7000 rpm)
2800 lbs street car

Here’s my problem:
The engine goes lean (16-17 to 1) when slowly increasing RPM at about 1/4 throttle and doesn’t richen up until I quickly press into the secondaries.  If I try to slowly increase throttle beyond 1/4 throttle the lean condition causes snapping and popping (bad noises).   
Anything less than 1/4 throttle (cruising) is a bit too rich (12-13 to 1).
When I go WOT I’m a bit too rich (12.2 to 1) I can easily fix this but I think I need to focus on the 1/4 throttle “too lean” issue first.

My first inclination is to increase primary jets and decrease secondary jets.  If I do this I’ll end up with close to the same size jets at all 4 corners with a power valve on the primary side only.  Does this sound normal? 

Should I be looking at increasing or decreasing emulsion jets?

33
FE Technical Forum / Re: Guess the horsepower game 6.20.20 # 1
« on: June 22, 2020, 11:53:15 AM »
551 hp

34
FE Technical Forum / Re: Guess the horsepower game 6.20.20 #2
« on: June 22, 2020, 11:48:16 AM »
627

35
FE Technical Forum / Re: 427 SOHC fuel filter part number and source
« on: June 18, 2020, 09:54:13 PM »
Thanks for the info. 

36
FE Technical Forum / 427 SOHC fuel filter part number and source
« on: June 17, 2020, 11:28:46 AM »
Does anyone know where I can get a Cammer fuel filter?  It’s the element that fits inside the OEM filter canister that mounts to the timing cover. 

37
FE Technical Forum / Re: NOS 427 SOHC cam spec question
« on: June 16, 2020, 09:34:17 PM »
If the OEM engine had 12 to 1 compression and made 550hp and my engine now has 10 to 1 with cams that are close to stock. I’m guessing I have a reduction of 6-7%.
So maybe it makes 500hp now?
Agree or disagree??


I guess I need to put it on a chassis dyno and quit guessing. 

38
FE Technical Forum / Re: NOS 427 SOHC cam spec question
« on: June 16, 2020, 03:47:19 PM »
If the OEM engine had 12 to 1 compression and made 550hp and my engine now has 10 to 1 with cams that are close to stock. I’m guessing I have a reduction of 6-7%.
So maybe it makes 500hp now?
Agree or disagree??


I guess I need to put it on a chassis dyno and quit guessing. 

39
FE Technical Forum / Re: NOS 427 SOHC cam spec question
« on: June 15, 2020, 03:03:00 AM »
No luck uploading a picture of the cam card.

Crane grind: CCR-570

Intake .570 lift at valve
Exhaust .570 lift at valve

                     Open.     Close.      Max lift.     Dur.
Int @.021   36 btdc      74 abdc.                    290
Exh @.021. 84 bbdc     26 atdc.                     290

Int. @.066   15 btdc    53 abdc.   109 atdc    248
Exh @.066   63 bbdc     5 atdc.    119 btdc    248

Remarks: the above reflects zero lash

40
FE Technical Forum / NOS 427 SOHC cam spec question
« on: June 15, 2020, 02:47:31 AM »
I just purchased a NOS 4v iron Cammer that the previous owner modified with 10 to 1 compression and different cams.  Other than some inter coatings, better carb, and electronic ignition the rest is stock. The motor currently is setup with 30 degrees total timing (which seems a little low) And the best I can tell from his notes the cams are advanced 2 and 4 degrees. His reason for these changes was to make the motor more streetable and pump gas friendly. I’ll send the cam card in the next post. I believe the cams he used are very close to stock.

My question is how much power do you guys think the motor is making?

41
FE Technical Forum / Re: Making an exhaust system - opinions?
« on: June 14, 2020, 06:32:12 PM »
I watched a YouTube video a while back from Engine Masters.  I just tried finding it and couldn’t locate it. They tested H pipes and X pipes.  Their results showed the X pipe made 2hp more than the H pipe, plus the Xpipe sounded smoother under power and quieter at idle. I’m sure results may vary based on dozens of factors. 

42
Non-FE Discussion Forum / Powder coating over Dow 7 on Magnesium
« on: May 25, 2020, 01:19:37 AM »
Does anyone have experience powder coating magnesium wheels that already have a Dow-7 coating on them. 
Does it work? Any potential problems?

43
Non-FE Discussion Forum / Re: 12” 6 piston Wilwood brakes
« on: May 10, 2020, 11:42:21 PM »
Good info.
I think I’ll go with a vacuum assist and a vacuum pump.
Thanks for the opinions.

44
Non-FE Discussion Forum / Re: 12” 6 piston Wilwood brakes
« on: May 09, 2020, 11:54:41 PM »
The car is a 67 fastback. The Wilwood superlite brakes came with the car when I bought it (in pieces) I’m assembling it now and I’m at the point where I need to decide between power or manual brakes.  My thought is with 6 piston calipers in the front and 4 piston in the rear with aggressive brake pads and a properly sized master cylinder I should have good strong manual brakes. I could easily go with power brakes if needed but I’m thinking it might not be necessary.

My brake pedal has a 8 to 1 ratio (12” overall length with 1.5” from pivot to MC link)
I’ll run a proportioning valve. 

45
Non-FE Discussion Forum / 12” 6 piston Wilwood brakes
« on: May 04, 2020, 08:59:57 PM »
Does anyone here have first hand knowledge of what it feels like to drive a car with 12” Wilwood 6 piston brakes (4 piston on the rear) without a brake booster. Then drive the exact same car with the same brakes except with a booster?
I’m curious if a brake booster is really that necessary when running big brakes with 6 piston calipers.

(3100lbs car with very sticky tires. Occasional autocross.)


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