I put on a new MSD6AL box,  MSD billet distributor, and a Summit Racing (SUM-850615) High Output Ignition Coil and have been trying for three weeks to get the Galaxie started. I'm stumped but I am pretty sure it is an ignition problem.  When I turn over the motor I get one or two good sparks on  #1 plug and then no spark.  I have checked all of the wiring, spark test the box, get good lights at startup on the MSD box but no change. I suspected the coil and checked electrical resistance and got good 40,000 Ohms on the primary but only 328,000 ohms on the secondary which seems low. However I swapped out the coile with another coil that had about 400,000 ohms on the secondary and still the same. I had the light silver springs and the "black-heavy" bushing. in the distributor but changed them to the two "light blue" springs and still same problem.

If you can give me any information on what the problem is and how to solve it I would be grateful.  I sure hope to make at least a few passes this season but I'm running out of good weather.

Larry,

Nope, I did not get the car running.  Its still in the trailer and I have not had a chance ( a lot of bad weather here) yet.

I'm rushing to get ready for Beaver Springs so no time to post pictures and more than quick information. I wanted to at least get this post done so send me respond with questions and I will try and respond.  I'll also have some other odds and ends I will bring and if there's anything you might be looking for also let me know.   
Complete 2x4 Tunnel wedge system:
·         Dove tunnel wedge intake manifold.  Not cut or ported.  Like new
·         2 Holley 4160 600 c.f.m. carbs. With milled choke horns rebuilt by
·         Linkage for a above
·         Fiberglass bonnet for headlight air induction
·         6” tubes to connect to headlight opening.
Race ready C-6:
·         Reverse manual valve body
·         Aluminum pan
·         Heavy duty steels , clutches and internals
Steel driveshaft for C6 install in 63/ 64 Galaxie:
·         Spicer 1350 yoke to fit C6
Two FE crank shafts
·         One U1B 428 needs some cleanup
·         One stock 390
Miscellaneous:
·         Plastic fuel cell
·         Chrome valve covers
·         More than a dozen radiator expansion tanks.

I've got quite a bit of FE / '64 Galaxie parts I have accumulated over the last 16 years so if you are looking for something specific let me know.

I am pushing hard to get the car ready for Beaver Springs and the good news is I got the motor back into the Galaxie yesterday.  The bad news is I am having a problem with the torque converter.

The issue is the tabs are drilled and tapped for a 3/8-24 bolt on the converter I had rebuilt for the new C4 trans. The threads were originally tapped with a 7/16-20 bolt. 

The quick fix would be to just get a set of 3/8-24 bolts but I contacted ARP and learned that the 7/16-20 bolts that were in the converter I had rebuilt are very common.  They are ARP part #200-2902.  They are described on the package as "Chevy & Ford Flex plate bolt kit".   The ARP rep. told me the only flexplate bolts they sell that have a 3/8-24 thread is their part number 206-2802 and they don't sell many of them.  They are almost twice the price of the 7/16-20 bolts, $30.31 versus $19.48 for the 7/16-20.  They are longer and I am not sure they will have the correct head flange to work with my flex plate.  I have ordered a set and I should have them tomorrow to compare to the 7/16-20 bolts.  I will have to check to make sure the small flange under the bolt head that mates to the ATI flexplate is a match.  If they match would the smaller diameter be sufficient for the torque.


The shop that did the rebuild advised to re-drill and tap the 3/8-24 holes to 7/16-24.  Although it will solve the mounting problem, I am concerned that the problem occured in the first place. Do you guys remember what threads are on your converters?  Is anyone running a converter with a 3/8-24 bolt  I am very leery about risking my motor and the new $3,000 transmission unless I can be sure the converter is a match.

I'm rushing to get my car ready for the FE Reunion and hit a snag.  I n adjusting the valve lash on my Dove rockers I found one of the adjusting nuts is cracked and the 5/32" allen key won't turn it.  Has anybody run into this and know a fix?  I bought three new rockers from Dove about a year ago and they have 1/8" female hex so I believe the cracking of the 5/32" has been a problem. I tried heating it with a hot air gun and that doesn't help.  I'd welcome any ideas.  I attached a picture file and the crack can be seen on the left side.

Ina spragless converter the roller sprag assembly is replaced with a solid billet .  Here's a link that explains better than I can.

https://autotransdesign.freshdesk.com/support/solutions/articles/9000098628-sprag-diode-roller-clutch-spragless-101-high-performance-torque-converter-

Thanks.  I'm glad I have the Victor Reinz.  Ironically I have it  because Rock Auto had a closeout on FE parts and the gaskets were one of the items I picked up.  My wife sometimes accuses me or being  hoarder but occasionally something from my "hoard" of FE parts works out .