Well the plot has thickened yet again ! Had the engine all together and up on the dyno set timing and just checking things over pulled dipstick and found "frothy" oil, was running 6 qts in 7qt pan as a test. Added extra qt to no avail.
 So here is what has happened over many weekends. Ended up finding that pump was pushing oil out at input shaft and "froth" there.
Reworked an old pump and put all back together, oil pressure was down about 20 psi running on drill which made us happier was about 70 psi before on drill. My buddy was running it later in the week as he tries not to offend neighbors with dyno runs after a certain time in evenings. Checked the oil and found water in oil checked her over and came up with manifold leak in one corner. So machined manifold to set more uniform and figured it was fixed. I had went down and spent a day cleaning the gunk out of everything and re assembling. Again he had it running later in week and found water in oil. So took her off the dyno as he had another engine coming in for testing. Made some block off plates for water jacket and found the real culprit a crack in valley above a couple lifter bores. Hairline crack but I decided we aren't attempting any repairs on that block.
 So yesterday went down and disassembled that engine inspecting for anything that could have been damaged, no issues thankfully.
 Loaded my original 428 block up and gauged the bores to see where we were with them. Ordered new pistons to work with the stroker kit for these bores. Once they arrive can finish machine this block and get it all back together.
 It's been an interesting time with all of this.

I had a 390 block that was cracked there. It did not show up on pressure test. could idle it no water in oil but as soon as i steped on it there was water in the oil
Discovered the crack when i was grinding on the block, the grinding dust formed a line along the crack like magnafluxing

I have the Quicktime bellhousing on my 428 with a C-4 trans. There is no access to tighten the torque converter nuts so I just drilled an access hole a little larger than the socket I needed through the 1 piece spacer/cover  in line with the converter studs. No problem with installing.

Hey Doug,
I have a used set of Comp 930-16 springs. (1.550)

They were set up at 330/120 with a hydro roller when I used them.

I have a 428CJ "C" scratch numbers matching engine that I just bored to +.030" over, and did a fresh sonic test that has cylinder walls capable of +.065" overbore and still have at least .125" everywhere.  The block is dated 8G23 which should be a '68.5 dated engine.  I believe that those real CJs have decent cylinder wall thicknesses remaining if the owners used antifreeze in their engines from the beginning.  Joe-JDC

I sonic check a few too and the C scratch is almost always head and shoulders over the early X, A, CI, and CX in thickness and consistency.  The later CI/CX can be as thick, but often inconsistent in core location, X and A tend to be a little thinner.  I agree with you though, if everyone would have used good antifreeze, things would be much easier.  I had one Mexican 302 casting that was thick for a Windsor, but rusted from the inside, sonic checked good, but I poured a little gas in the water jacket because I saw a shadow and it weeped.  Pitting can be bad

I finally figured out why I couldn’t get the hydraulic clutch system to bleed on my 1999 Ranger. 

The reservoir had a rubber insert that I thought was a filter to keep dirt out of the system.  I kept the filter filled while I tried to bleed the system.  The “filter” was not filter it was a rubber isolator to keep air out away from the fluid.  When I removed the “filter” to clean it I found that there was no fluid under it. 

As soon as I added oil it saw bubbles coming out of the line.  Bleeding the system was easy after that.