Starting to understand why building engines may be best left to the professional

[Joe-JDC]

There are fuel catch cups available with a long spout and handle that you can buy.  They are designed especially for quick change of jets in a race situation.  Check with Jegs, Speedway Motors, Summit, etc.  Joe-JDC

[Drew Pojedinec]

Moroso part # 65805

[Joe-JDC]

Beat me to the part number!  Moroso Drain Cup # 65805 is correct.  Check with Smiley's parts for pricing.  Joe-JDC

[Drew Pojedinec]

hehehe, I've considered getting one for years when I'm bulk ordering parts from Allstate carb, but dang man.... $8, ya know?  my old cut up margerine container might just need to hold out another year or two.

[fastback 427]

Ha. Cut in half beer can works for me.

[My427stang]

Ha. Cut in half beer can works for me.

Shop rag under the lower float bowl screw for me most of the time

[Yellow Truck]

Getting back to the main conversation - I'm setting it up with the mixture screws our 3/4 as per QFT for factory setup (called them to confirm) and I'm going to back the initial timing off a bit before I start it.

Where I think I really am regarding timing is 18-19 initial, and 33-34 total based on the timing light showing 20 and 35. This is based on the known error of 1.5 degrees on the marks (true TDC occurs around 1.5 degrees on the balancer), so all the values the timing light captures are 1.5 more advanced than is really the case.

[machoneman]

Unless the balancer's outer ring has slipped (and I guess not) no harm in bending the tab (sheetmetal)or otherwise re-marking the pointer by making up a new one. Had used a thick still wire, bend one end into a small circle and with a longer front cover bolt, stuffed said wire under the bolt and re-tightened. Be sure to grind the other end...pointy! 

If it's one of the pointy solid ones sticking out of the front cover, then no dice on that idea.

[Yellow Truck]

Bob,

I think this one is a "no dice" proposition, especially in the truck, as it is.
IMG_3437 by Fred Snoyd, on Flickr

Before I fire it I'm going to pick up another lower rad hose, I have one of those nice stainless deals on there now and I just can't get it to not leak from the lower rad connection. Since you can't really see it (unless I am running over you, in which case I don't mind if your last thoughts are "what a crappy looking rad hose") I am going to a molded black one.

[My427stang]

I had a run where I was building engines for street rod guys when stationed in Vegas, they loved those stainless ribbed hoses, I hated them... LOL

Stock hoses are where it's at in my book.  Sounds like you are going to be close with the carb, fire it, warm it up, get it to idle and set timing (may as well go 14-16 initial, that's about where you will be with the new distributor so you'll know what it feels like at idle anyway), then fine tune idle a/f (should be pretty close as is)

In the event the new distributor makes it feel a little less responsive, don't sweat it, your advance is too quick now, which may feel good, but when you don't have to worry about ping/rattle anymore, your engine will thank you

[Yellow Truck]

Well, at least the top one works fine. The new rubber one fought me but it fits well and looks like it doesn't leak. It was dusk by the time I was finished, so I'll fire it this morning.

Dusk is coming very early these days. The time to hibernate is coming!

[Yellow Truck]

Now this is annoying . It started pretty easily, was happy - no fuel leaks, but had to stay on the throttle to keep it lit while it warmed up. After 30 seconds it died. I sat for a few seconds and realized I hadn't heard the fuel pump. Checked, and the old glass fuse under the dash that feeds the relay had burned out.

Now I put in a clever oil pressure cut off to the fuel pump at my buddy's suggestion. In theory it is a good idea - if you ever lose oil pressure the fuel pump cuts out. Except that it is burning fuses now, and to take the switch out of play I have to take the PS brackets off - you can see the three red wires buried in the middle. Since the damned thing ran for 50 years without losing oil pressure I think I'll just take the thing out and run without it.

IMG_3438 by Fred Snoyd, on Flickr

[Yellow Truck]

Even more annoying - I had to do some work on my motorhome and I think I broke my thumb. Going to make everything that much more difficult, especially since it is my right hand and I'm right handed.

[Yellow Truck]

I did get the cut off switch removed from the circuit, and the fuel pump runs for about 20 seconds before it cooks the fuse. The pump draws its power from a direct connection to the battery via a separate in-line fuse. This is just the relay and it is cooking an old style cylindrical fuse in the Ford fuse box under the dash.

I noticed that the heater fan is on that circuit, but it was shut off. I don't think it is a short I introduced, but when the sun comes up I'll pull the relay and replace the fuse, and turn on the power and see if the fuse cooks without the fuel pump relay.

While this is VERY annoying, at least the new distributor showed up today. I won't put it on until I have the carb sorted a little more (idle and mixture adjustments).

All with a black and purple thumb! I can feel my heart
 beating in my thumb.

[My427stang]

Well, first, when a mechanic has a new issue right after they did something, it is generally their fault.  Been there, done that, got the T-shirt LOL  (too many times)

I would look closely to make sure you didn't pinch a wire when you jacked the motor up or putting together the accessories.

Second, remember, ignition timing first, carb setup second.  So although one thing at a time is good, once you get the initial set, total and rate verified, you are done with the ignition.  So, don't be afraid to get that engine running and enough basic adjustment to let it run, then get the good distributor in there

Sorry about the thumb, there has got to be a lesson there too