Factory Heads VS Aluminum Heads

[Skeeter65]

Please feel free to move or delete this post if it is in the wrong place. I am new to FE's but I have questions. Why would I want to run Factory heads VS Aluminum Heads other than the cost factor? What I have is a '67 390 2V with the factory C7AE A 8 bolt heads out of a '67 Galaxie 500. Once it is built it will be going in my '67 S Code Mustang Coupe to replace the original that was removed before I bought it back in the late eighties. So what I am after is a solid reliable street motor and will likely do a 445 stroker but wondering about the heads. Should I have the factory heads worked over and go with a Performer RPM or for the extra cost involved go the TFS route with either their intake or the RPM?

Thanks for any input you can provide.
Jody "SKEETER65"

[GerryP]

You can do factory heads if all you want is, as you state;  "...a solid reliable street motor..."  You'll get more from the motor even in relatively stock form with good aftermarket heads.  If your iron heads need a lot of work...valve job, guides, springs, surfacing and all that, you start getting a machine shop bill that starts encroaching on new alloy head prices.  If you want to tart up the iron heads, porting and all that, then you are deep into alloy territory.  It all comes down to what your expectations are.

Just so you know, if you want to use those iron heads, they have an 8 bolt exhaust flange.  The C7 head also uses an exhaust port that is 1/4" lower than the earlier port and the CJ port.  If you do nothing, you might be able to run some headers, but it's a bit of a crap shoot in how good they seal.  Be very careful and understand everything if you are going the headers route.  The factory drilled the exhaust flange for a 14 bolt pattern for the unibody cars and used special exhaust manifolds to fit the chassis.  If you're thinking of using any manifolds but the factory unibody or CJ, then forget it.  They won't fit.  If you do want to use unibody or CJ manifolds, you'll need to have your head drilled to accept those.  The bosses are on the head, but are not drilled.

[Joe-JDC]

220-230cfm vs 255 up depending on the aluminum head chosen.  The TFS is a good 100 cfm better than the stock iron head you have.  That is an easy 100 hp difference depending on the build.  A 445 needs a better head than the H.  Joe-JDC

[427John]

If you do decide to go with iron heads the C6AE-R version built to 428 CJ specs will probably be a better choice for the 445 engine you propose but there will likely be little if any cost savings.You would need to get a quote from your cylinder head guy for cost of complete rebuild including installation of larger valves and any desired port work and add in the cost of the cores,to make an accurate cost comparison.Another thing to keep in mind with aluminum heads is depending on what brand you buy they may or may not be ready to run out of the box,so you need to factor in any cost for getting them checked by your head guy if that is necessary. 

[Skeeter65]

I would prefer to go with Aluminum for the newer technology and weight reduction. With the C7 heads I have being less desirable for performance without a lot of expensive work and fitment in the Mustang bay for as far as header choices, I guess I'd be further ahead to just to spend the extra on the aluminum heads. That being said, you guys would know this more than I would, but are the Trick Flow 175's more or less ready to go out of the box without the need for any machine work. I was thinking of using their Track Heat intake as well but isn't there an issue with the alignment of the pushrod holes with that intake? I am open to doing what needs to be done to make it right but if they are good to go for the most part I could have any additional work done after the fact over and above the pushrod alignment.

Hopefully I didn't ramble on too much.

Jody 

[Cyclone03]

As soon as you said Mustang ....
I would go with aluminum,heads intake water pump.
Anything you can do to get weight off the front.
The big cars benefit from reduced weight but the Mustang really needs it.

The modern aluminum heads all have the CJ exhaust pattern that makes header choice easy too.

[Falcon67]

The primary deal with stock vs aftermarket is cost.  Like here we only have a couple of performance shops left.  A shop with current equipment has $$$$$ overhead.  To redo a set of heads with updated valves, seats, etc and all the misc stuff you usually end up within $500 of a set of new generation heads that may well work better.  SBF heads especially are like that - stock heads are used to hold your 10x10 tent down at the swap meet. 

[Skeeter65]

The primary deal with stock vs aftermarket is cost.  Like here we only have a couple of performance shops left.  A shop with current equipment has $$$$$ overhead.  To redo a set of heads with updated valves, seats, etc and all the misc stuff you usually end up within $500 of a set of new generation heads that may well work better.  SBF heads especially are like that - stock heads are used to hold your 10x10 tent down at the swap meet.

Falcon67, there is no shortage of shops near where I am at, which is NASCAR country. I am just under an hour south of Charlotte Motor Speedway and there are plenty of race shops in that area but as you stated, they are high dollar shops. I've always done all my own assembly work over the years on small blocks with the exception of the needed machine work. I do agree with the fact that the extra cost to go aluminum is worth it.

[Skeeter65]

As soon as you said Mustang ....
I would go with aluminum,heads intake water pump.
Anything you can do to get weight off the front.
The big cars benefit from reduced weight but the Mustang really needs it.

The modern aluminum heads all have the CJ exhaust pattern that makes header choice easy too.

Thanks!

[Cyclone03]

As soon as you said Mustang ....
I would go with aluminum,heads intake water pump.
Anything you can do to get weight off the front.
The big cars benefit from reduced weight but the Mustang really needs it.

The modern aluminum heads all have the CJ exhaust pattern that makes header choice easy too.

Thanks!

All that said are aluminum heads available? What is your time frame? You may be looking at the end of the year before you get your engine together.

[Skeeter65]

As soon as you said Mustang ....
I would go with aluminum,heads intake water pump.
Anything you can do to get weight off the front.
The big cars benefit from reduced weight but the Mustang really needs it.

The modern aluminum heads all have the CJ exhaust pattern that makes header choice easy too.

Thanks!

All that said are aluminum heads available? What is your time frame? You may be looking at the end of the year before you get your engine together.

The car is in pieces while I repair the rust right now anyway so I am in no hurry to get the motor finished but I want to make sure I have my choices made before I start placing orders. I have to get the block magged first anyway before I can go any further with parts.

[Falcon67]

Falcon67, there is no shortage of shops near where I am at, which is NASCAR country. I am just under an hour south of Charlotte Motor Speedway and there are plenty of race shops in that area but as you stated, they are high dollar shops. I've always done all my own assembly work over the years on small blocks with the exception of the needed machine work. I do agree with the fact that the extra cost to go aluminum is worth it.

That's good.  The precision equipment isn't cheap.  Most of the guys doing this are retired, the best guy here is basically a one man shop. Very good equipment, young guy, good service.  Does a lot of diesel work and the bit of resto work going on.  Not a lot of performance builds, most guys now just buy crate engines.  The faster guys just buy a big motor - Sunset, SDPC, etc and have the seller do the freshups.