My 427 SOHC Build..... Finally the time has come!

[cobracammer]

OK push start button is on its way (with 6 feet of wiring so I can run all separate than existing ignition wires.)

Question.  the button goes in the center of the dash above the radio.  it actually takes the place of a 12V outlet (cigarette lighter in older cars  LOL).  In a 2005 Mustang, the 12V outlet is hot at all times, not just when the key is in run or start.  Should I hook the button up to these wires?  I was thinking it would work, but then the car can be started and "Driven away"  without use of the key.  Maybe not the best Idea but wanted to ask.  I could always cap them and find a "hot in run" wire, but wanted to ask since it so convenient to have the wires right there  LOL

Thoughts?

[jayb]

It's just the start button, right?  If that's all it is, you are correct that the car can be cranked at any time without the key, but the ignition system will require the key to be on before it is energized.  So, the car can't be driven away.  Or, have I misunderstood something?

[cobracammer]

Nope.  You are correct!  I was having a senior moment.  You would need the key to activate the Ignition box, computer and fuel pumps.  I honestly do not know what I was thinking.  I think that's what Heo meant by wiring it so that you could crank it without fuel and spark.....  never mind.  :0)

[Tboggus]

I would figure how to wire it so that you couldn't hit the start button with the engine running. That way the starter could not be engaged with the flywheel while it is spinning. Maybe being pessimistic but a passenger could mash the start button while you're running 75 down the highway.

[ScotiaFE]

Write "HORN" on the button.
No one will want to push it.

[cobracammer]

Start button arrives today in the mail (Supposedly).  Hoping to tackle it this weekend. 

[cobracammer]

OK button came this weekend, but then I wanted to run it past you guys since I had doubts after seeing the wiring.  Did't quite look like what I had expected:

In my head, before the button arrived, I was going to unplug the 12 V outlet (cigarette lighter) and use the power and ground from that pigtail to power the button.

When the start button arrived, it looks like everything is piggybacked off of the relay, so the start button itself has a harness which all the wires are already connected to the relay (no loose wires for me to reconnect to the power and ground that came off of the back of the 12V outlet.  the only loose wires come out of the relay.  There is a "Red-thick(er)" wire which is power, there is a "Black Thin" wire which is the ground (already has an ring connector attached), and then there is a "Red Thick(er)" wire with a green spiral which should go to the solenoid.

I just wanted to double check before installing.  I am going to unplug the 12V outlet from the dash and just tuck that pigtail up under the radio (will not be used).  Then I will connect the thin Black wire with the ring connector to a grounding source, I will take the red thick wire and put it to a source that's hot in "Run" and "Start", and the Red thick wire with the green spiral and run it right to the starter.  Sound about right?

Here is what the button setup looks like currently:

From the button to the relay (Pin 30) - Blue thin wire
From the relay (Pin 30) to no where currently (loose wire)-Red Thick wire

From the Button to the relay (Pin 86) - Black Thin wire
From the relay (Pin 86) to no where currently (Ring connector on the end)

From the relay (Pin 87) to no where currently (loose wire)-Red Thick wire with Green Spiral

From the Button to the relay (Pin 85)- Red thin wire

[cjshaker]

Have you considered a hand crank? I've never seen one fail to work.

[cobracammer]

or just push start the car by popping the clutch.  :0)

[cobracammer]

Hey Guys.  Got started this weekend, finally.  It is not an exact fit straight out of the box ( because its a start button from a Honda S2000, but a little time and patience at the table with assorted diamond files, and It fits better than any mustang part, and looks like it came from the factory.  Now I just need to run the signal wire to the starter:

[cobracammer]

OK got it all wired up and back into the car.  This button (if I didn't already say it somewhere) was in order to bypass the PCM and the cars Passive Anti-Theft module.  I can't blame the car......  all in all there were probably 20+ sensors on the modular engine.  Now that the cammer is sitting in there, they are just unconnected pigtails just hanging there.  Cars computer can't "think straight" because it probably looks as if there is no engine in the car with all of the inputs missing.  Either way, I wanted to bypass the computers rather than cut and splice in wires incase down the road, if and when I have the electrical system done professionally, I can continue to use the key to start the car as well as the start button.

Took about 3 hours in all, but works perfectly.  I like ending on a high note these days, so I did not want to press on any further for the weekend.  I did however try cranking the engine with the ignition box switch off in order to try and get oil pressure to register on the gauge.  I only tried maybe 2 separate cranks of about 5 seconds each (I know that's not really that long, but I am nervous to burn out another starter.  I will try another few times to see if I can get oil pressure before I flip on the ignition box and FAST ECU switch and start the initial setup on the hand held.

Speaking of FAST ecu's....  I just got off the phone with the companies tech support.  I was remembering when I had the car running last year, I had followed the directions and adjusted the throttle blades (to get the indicator bar in range) when the car reached operating temperature.  Unfortunately, I was adjusting the blades with the huge vacuum leak.  I wanted to make sure I spoke with FAST to see how the throttle blades should be set when starting over.  The instructions per the tech were to close the throttle blades on both throttle bodies all the way.  Then crack them both open 1/4 of a turn.  I will do this when I get home from work today.  Also, the oil pan plug I found on speedway motors (which is actually a break booster fitting) is not working that well.  There is some oil under the car as its not sealing up the oil pan that well.  Luckily, Jegs just came out with a new plug (for a tranny), but the exact male and female threads I needed.  I picked it up as well as 9 quarts of new oil (as I do not want to reuse the oil that comes out when I switch the fitting).  As soon as I swap that out, I will roll the car into the driveway and give it a go!

[WConley]

Jason -

Glad to hear you're getting ahead of the electrical gremlins.  The new oil pan plug is a good thing too, because that will drive you crazy!  You'd probably end up stripping the threads trying to torque that old one up...

Looking forward to hearing the rumble coming from out East soon.

- Bill

[cobracammer]

Thanks Bill.  I was able to swap out that oil pan plug last night and reinstall the oil temp sender into it.  Then poured in a new batch of oil (9 quarts)....  no leaks.  :0)

Last thing to do is Fill it up with the new 93 Octane (since I pumped out the Gas from last year), get oil pressure to register on the gauge and start!

[mike7570]

Like your subject line says "Finally the time has come!"   Well, start it already !

[cobracammer]

Ok.  Got off work early today and buttoned up all of the last little things.  Air damn under radiator is reinstalled.  Checked around to make sure the oil pan plug is still not leaking oil ( it wasn't), re-adjusted fuel pressure to 43 psi as per the FAST instructions, checked to ensure throttle blades are in the original position on both throttle bodies for initial startup, and finally trying to prime the engine by cranking it over with the ignition box turned off.  Unfortunately I cranked it about 5 seperate times ( for 3 to 4 seconds each time).  I am not able to get oil pressure to register on the gauge doing this.  Question is, should I keep trying to crank it 4 seconds at a time until it registers?  I really dont want to remove the distributor at all.  Sounds stupid, but Jay has the engine working so perfectly, I dont want to "screw" with even the smallest part.  Lol