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Messages - CV355

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1
200*F for oil, or water, temps is just fine...no worries.
220*F for oil, or water temps is just fine....but getting up there.
Many choose temps in the 160-180 range and that is not ideal for many reasons...too cool.
But even 235*F is okay for one of these engines.

Not to hijack the thread, but I have read many conflicting opinions on the 160-180 topic.  Lots of people say this is too cool, many others say it's fine and that they've never had an engine wear out prematurely for running temp in that range.  My engine was running in the 210-215 range with a 180 stat in the first 100 miles (90-100f southern summer days), but I altered the grill for better airflow and now it sits happy in 178-182.  When I was in the 215 range, it dieseled badly on shutdown. 

Just curious what your thoughts are on the 160-180 being too cool.

2
Non-FE Discussion Forum / Re: braided hose
« on: April 22, 2024, 06:54:48 AM »
If you're buying PTFE braided hose and fittings, make sure to get fittings rated for hydraulic pressure and have a reputable shop crimp/swage them on properly.  You would be surprised how many fittings are sold without the pressure rating specs being advertised or considered.  Always assume it is low pressure class unless otherwise specified. 

Buy the same brand line/hose and fitting

ptfe fittings do not need a crimp connection you can get crimp fittings but most use a collar that goes over the inner liner under the braid.

Also added bonus to ptfe hose is it is much smaller OD then rubber. The -6 line I use for my power steering has an OD of only 0.429" it may look odd if you only do the one line

Good point!  Each manufacturer runs to different tolerances, so for "max material conditions" the ferrule may not actually fit over the teflon liner.  Incredibly frustrating when that happens.  I had 30' of 8AN PTFE and none of the ferrules fit, and it was the same brand. 

3
Non-FE Discussion Forum / Re: braided hose
« on: April 16, 2024, 08:12:42 AM »
If you're buying PTFE braided hose and fittings, make sure to get fittings rated for hydraulic pressure and have a reputable shop crimp/swage them on properly.  You would be surprised how many fittings are sold without the pressure rating specs being advertised or considered.  Always assume it is low pressure class unless otherwise specified. 

4
FE Technical Forum / Re: Need to quiet down our 484 FE...
« on: April 16, 2024, 08:06:38 AM »
I went through and made sure every header bolt was torqued, nothing had loosened and there was no evidence of a leak at the heads.  I think the issue is at the collectors, and it directs the noise towards the front of the car.  I crawled under while the engine was running and there is no leak anywhere near the cutouts.  There is no room for a clamp, short of me removing the collectors, slotting each primary tube and welding on draw tabs.  I may try the permatex method and hope it doesn't blow out.

I did find the main culprit for the exhaust stench.  The hood scoop blinker harness had pulled forward (CVF hinges open higher, so I needed a larger strain relief) and the grommets were no longer sealed up by the cowl.  That was an easy fix.  Every other area was sealed properly on the firewall and under the car.

Overall it is running great and I have worked out every other major issue.  Drives are getting more enjoyable and less nerve-wracking. 

5
FE Technical Forum / Re: Speedmaster latest theft of property video
« on: April 12, 2024, 12:50:03 PM »
The audacity of them putting "Broader Performance" on their counterfeit product is likely because the counterfeiter was lazy.  They likely used a 3D scanner and machined to data.  Chinese machine shops don't understand English.  I have received parts back with "Part Serial Number Here" milled into a surface instead of the serialized part number.  It was pure laziness.  I hate outsourcing machining to China, and have avoided it as far as my job would allow me to.  I've gotten into heated arguments with executives (former employer, not current employer) over it.  I like supporting local machine shops.  They cost a little bit more but they will always stand by their workmanship, and you can communicate with them.  Low-cost-country brokers may give you a tiny piece price but they charge you like mad for shipping, and God forbid you need to talk with a machinist or a part gets made wrong.  All so that some pointless bean-counter can say "I saved the company $121.54 last year."  I hate it.

Yes, I hope Broader sues them into oblivion.

 

6
FE Technical Forum / Re: Need to quiet down our 484 FE...
« on: April 11, 2024, 02:16:10 PM »
My sound check.
Both my FE's running. 428 with Hookers and 482 with Hookers.
If either one of mine was making that much noise under the hood I be changing something.
My Bro even said exhaust. The 482 pop just once and then 15 mins later shut down on the pass.
Pertronix let me down.

https://www.youtube.com/shorts/Rb1R_2wkHvk

Yours sounds excellent.  It looks like everyone is in agreement that the sound I'm experiencing is not typical header ping and there's a leak somewhere.  I'll re-torque everything and try again.  I'd love to get this resolved without having to change out exhaust components.

7
FE Technical Forum / Re: Need to quiet down our 484 FE...
« on: April 10, 2024, 07:13:42 AM »
None of this makes sense to me. I've had slip joint headers that showed the black marks from exhaust exiting between the joints....never smelled anything, or heard leaks. IF there was anything to hear, it was only at full throttle, where I couldn't hear it anyway over the carb and/or exhaust note. I most definitely never smelled like exhaust from driving, or smelled it at all for that matter.

Not counting a really REALLY bad leak at the head or collector, the only way I've smelled exhaust in the car (also a Mach 1), was when my exhaust terminated at the rear axle, OR when the exhaust didn't protrude past the rear valance, where it gets trapped under the car and makes its way back into the trunk, or back to the side windows. That is definitely an issue. I just don't believe a small joint leak could produce enough fumes to smell inside, let alone cover the driver. Almost 40 years of driving my Mach, with different engines, different headers, different mufflers...or no exhaust at all, that is my experience.

Sound can be a funny thing. Certain frequencies can trigger really annoying reactions, especially as a person ages and their hearing changes. It may be the case here, where a certain frequency from those particular thin wall headers is just not playing well with your hearing. But in fairness, I've never ran REF headers, so can't say whether or not they are worse, or just different, than others.

I'm putting the car up on the lift this weekend, checking every connection and re-torquing all of the exhaust flange bolts just to be safe.  I see no smoke, there are no oil leaks anywhere.  I do have electric cutouts but they are sealed well and it's all welded from the collector flange back to the mufflers.

Here's an example of the noise level in front of the car vs behind at the tailpipes. 
https://streamable.com/rrjdob


8
FE Technical Forum / Re: Need to quiet down our 484 FE...
« on: April 09, 2024, 08:15:58 AM »
Welding would be a good fix but to really do it properly you should remove it you could get it fitting up nice and tight then we all know that is a huge pain and most cars to remove any fe exhaust headers.

You could try aluminium tape as well could be hard to make that work at the collector but there is Aluminium tape you can buy for small slip joint leaks could be a cheap thing to try fist see if that stops the fumes.

I can try that.  I have shim stock down to 0.002" too.  I read that some people have success with ultracopper permatex but others say it blows out.  Given how small of a gap this must be, I might give that a try too.  No clue how hard it'll be to remove the collectors someday though.  I might have to make a jig with a draw bar. 

9
FE Technical Forum / Re: Need to quiet down our 484 FE...
« on: April 09, 2024, 07:50:39 AM »
I think what Urgefor means is you could tig a bead of weld around inside the collector or outside of the primary tubes so you get a tighter fit once the collector is fitted up tight.

If it is that bad that you smell like exhaust after driving your car sounds like the leak is pretty bad and it is getting inside the car. I would find out how those fumes are getting inside the car first that should not be happening could be firewall floor or trunk and i would think trunk or the rear of the car some place.

you could start the car on a car hoist and see if you can spot other leaks.

I'll put it on the lift next weekend and inspect all along both collectors.  I have the firewall plugged up pretty well but I'll check for any areas I might have missed.  The floor is sealed.

Regarding welding, that does make sense and I hadn't considered that approach- basically weld a tight bead around the inside and grind it to fit, just adding a few thou when done.  I can try that, might be really tough because it's over-locating everything and was a nightmare to install as-is.   

10
FE Technical Forum / Re: Need to quiet down our 484 FE...
« on: April 09, 2024, 06:38:58 AM »
Do you have the headers coated with anything? All the sets of REF's that I have done have been Jet-Hot coated. The coating leaves a bit of white residue inside the pipes and makes them fit very tight. When I did mock-up I could slide that collector on, after coating I had to use a rubber mallet to get the collector on.

I had mine Jet-Hot coated in 2020.  The collector pipes were very difficult to install but apparently there's just enough of a gap to jet exhaust gasses and sound.  It's a little embarrassing that I've been chasing a header leak like this for 2 years, but in my defense it doesn't sound like a typical leak.  I really thought it was just the way the headers were until I saw the tiny 0.5" scorch marks firing forwards on two primaries.  It's so minor overall that I'd guess most people would just run it and not care (especially at the track, which this is not a track car), but I need this car to be quiet and fume-free.  I took it for a 10 mile drive over the weekend and I reeked of exhaust when I got home.

I unfortunately can't weld the primaries to the collector because it would be impossible to remove the headers without destroying them and there's no way to get a torch in to weld the center areas.  Getting those REF headers installed was a puzzle I don't ever want to mess with again.

11
Non-FE Discussion Forum / Re: Home and Auto Insurance
« on: April 08, 2024, 01:24:51 PM »
SC here.  Close to a $700k property, I'm around $1400/yr in home owners insurance and about $1200/yr for auto across 4 vehicles with a $1.5M umbrella and $500k stacked underinsured. The underinsured part is the most costly portion, since most dingbats around here drive around drunk and meth'd out with state minimum insurance on the wrong side of the road.  That's the biggest disadvantage to living in this state, but it sure beats the taxes I was paying back up in New England...

State Farm has been very good to us.  I dropped Allstate 7 years ago after they pulled some really nasty stunts, and those crooks continued drafting from the wrong account even after I cancelled all policies, so avoid them like the plague.

12
FE Technical Forum / Re: Need to quiet down our 484 FE...
« on: April 08, 2024, 07:08:09 AM »
I think I discovered part of the issue with sound.  Two primaries have a leak where they enter the slip-fit collector on the driver's side.  There is a burn pattern where exhaust gasses have jetted out and fire forward (hence the noise).  But, it's very well hidden.  This also explains why I smell like I've been riding a motorcycle after taking this thing for a quick drive up the road and back.

Short of trying to expand the primary pipes and making it a nightmare to remove and re-install, what can be done about sealing up those gaps?  Are there donut gaskets that can be used?  I have read that any paste-type sealant will eventually blow out. 

13
FE Technical Forum / Re: Need to quiet down our 484 FE...
« on: March 27, 2024, 01:00:15 PM »
I wonder if wrapping the headers would change the engine bay sound enough to be more "pleasant"? I've wrapped mid-pipes on various vehicles. There's some change in sound but I couldn't classify is as more quiet. Just different.

Not sure.  I have wrapped exhausts before and didn't notice too much of a sound difference.  I can see it helping reduce the ringing noise, but it's more of the exhaust pulse expansion that I hear towards the engine bay.  Those REF headers are thin wall.

14
FE Technical Forum / Re: Need to quiet down our 484 FE...
« on: March 27, 2024, 12:48:40 PM »
I have Hooker comps on my 427. I had flowmaster 40's and electric cut outs. It was pretty loud. My biggest issue was the cutouts would start leaking after a couple minutes after you closed them. Then you'd open and close them again and a couple of miles later they's start leaking again. I finally bought a set of Varex X Force electronic mufflers. They an outfit out of Australia. I'm pretty darn happy with them. When closed, they are quieter than the Flowmasters by about 25% (if i had to guess) and when open they are slightly louder than the flowmasters were. And of course you can either use a supplied remote control or an app on your phone which is what I use.

It's perfect for me because when I leave for the local Cars n Coffee at 7am I don't want to bother the neighbors and I feel that this is about as quiet as it could possibly be and I've had no complaints. If anything I wish it was a little louder when open. If I could find a set of electric cutouts that absolutly didn't leak I'd install those as well.  Here's a video of them closed.

https://youtu.be/v2mzYmfb0Nk?feature=shared

Do you hear more volume from the tailpipes or the engine bay?  Our Mach 1 is ridiculously loud in the engine bay- all from the headers I suspect.  The exhaust note is minimal except under load.  I even have 2 layers of sound deadening in the cabin (including thick MLV) and it's unbearable.  This is coming from a guy who used to drive with a 5" exhaust sticking out the front bumper on another Mustang, straight dump from a 91mm turbo.  I know loud.   

I'm debating putting much quieter mufflers on, but I can't imagine that would have any effect on the engine bay.  Standing in front of the car is significantly louder than standing behind it at idle. 

15
FE Technical Forum / Need to quiet down our 484 FE...
« on: March 26, 2024, 07:27:47 AM »
Right now I am running REF headers, a Magnaflow X pipe, and Magnaflow Street-Series mufflers (straight thru design, not chambered).  I am considering some quieter mufflers, but I'm curious if this has any effect on the amount of perceivable header ping.  I'd really rather not have to change out those headers if I can avoid it.  It's louder at the engine bay than behind the tailpipes at idle.  Younger me wouldn't care, but older me needs something quieter so I don't feel guilty firing it up on a Saturday morning.   

I'm struggling to understand the sound dynamic difference between this and other cars I've built over the years.  I had a cammed GT500 with long tube headers and a similar exhaust setup, and the engine bay was quiet by comparison.  I imagine the wall thickness was greater on those Kooks headers than the REFs.  All of the sound was behind the car.  That's what I'd like on the Mach 1.

If I just swap out the mufflers for something quieter, do you think it'll get me what I'm looking for, or should I start looking for a different set of headers or exhaust manifolds? 

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