Last November, I had total knee joint replacement on my right leg. I am still recovering from that surgery (also recovering from twice-a-week, extensive, ongoing physical therapy). As such, I can work in the garage until the swelling and pain forces me into the house for an ice pack. But I continue to work on my 2000 rpm vibration.
So far, I have successfully identified the following items are
NOT causing my 2000 rpm vibration.
Not the spark plugs. Plugs are clean and dry. One side of porcelain is white (front row), the other is dark tan (back row). Gasoline is 91 octane unleaded premium. Checked the gaps to .035” and reinstalled plugs….be sure to recheck the gaps if you drop them on the concrete floor.
Any problems here? Some dark speckles?
Not the plug wires. Replaced wires with new, premium NAPA – Belden EDGE BEL 7000142. The new NAPA 7mm wires all measured very low resistance, 4900 to 5500 ohms, I was impressed. The old, previous Motorcraft wires measured 15,000 ohms (plus/minus).
Not the rotor, but I replaced it anyway with a NAPA – Echlin ECH FA 157. Here is the original.
Not the Motorcraft distributor cap, but replaced it with a NAPA – Echlin ECH FA79 (brass terminals). Here is the original, clean as a whistle.
Not the old, factory coil. My Ford coil tested good to Ford specs, Primary = 1.5 ohms. Secondary = 7500 ohms. Not sure if orange color arc is good, but it would jump +3/8” inch. The spark color across .035” gap on an Autolite plug was a satisfactory blue/orange color.