Should go real nice in a Stang I suppose

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Performance Summary:
      Cubic Inches:   464            Dyno brand:SF 902 Pro
      Power Adder:   n/a            Where dynoed: Pro Street Dino plus
      Peak Horsepower:588.6 @ 5500
      Peak Torque: 605@ 4500

Horsepower and Torque Curves:


Engine Specifications:
   Block brand, material, finished bore size, other notes: C scratch
     
   Crankshaft brand, cast or forged, stroke, journal size: 4.25 scat
     
   Connecting Rods brand, material, center to center distance, end sizes, bolts: scat I beam

   Piston brand, material (caster, hypereutectic or forged), dish/dome volume, static CR: Mahle 20 cc dish. 10.3

   Main Bearings, Rod Bearings, Cam Bearings brand and size:

   Piston rings brand, size, other notes: Mahle 1mm 1mm 3mm

   Oil Pump, pickup, and drive:Melling HV

   Oil pan, windage tray, oil filter adapter: Canton 15-850

   Camshaft brand, type (hyd/solid, flat tappet or roller), lift and duration (adv and @.050") 235 / 246. Lykins Custom Hyd roller

   Lifters brand, type: morel

   Timing chain and timing cover: closes

   Cylinder heads brand, material, port and chamber information: OTB TFS

   Cylinder head flow in cfm at inches of lift (28" H2O pressure drop):
      Intake               Exhaust
      .100               .100
      .200               .200
      .300               .300
      .400               .400
      .500               .500
      .600               .600
      .700               .700
      .800               .800

   Flow bench used, location:

   Intake valve brand, head size, stem size:

   Exhaust valve brand, head size, stem size:
   
   Valve springs brand, part number, specs:

   Retainers and locks brand, part number, specs:

   Rocker arm brand, type (adjustable or non-adj), material, ratio : Lykins

   Rocker shafts and stands, brand, material: POP

   Pushrods brand, type, length: Manton  11/32  .120 wall

   Valve covers, brand, type: CJ aluminum

   Distributor brand, advance curve information: Dura spark

   Harmonic balancer brand: Power Bond

   Water pump brand, type (mechanical or electric): aluminum electric on Dyno

   Intake manifold brand, material, porting information: Streetmaster home ported

   Carburetor(s) brand, type : 780 quick fuel

   Exhaust manifolds or headers brand, type: 2” dyno headers then switched to hooker 6114
[/quote]

HB Yeah it sucked. It was an engine that was in a storage shed for 20 or so years. So an old block that gave up the ghost. Heads are no name aluminum Ed copies. Was really just trying to save the original heads when I bought them. Stopped myself then from going deeper in engine as I knew it would be a stroker kit then.
 Heo That was how this one started no leak at first then started leaking when not running. At least it didn't hurt anything else and my buddy was able to get some testing done for some electronics for his NHRA Pro Stock guys. Imagine that an FE used to help out the chebbie guys. Don't think I can get any documentation from anyone for that.

MeanGene The guy is a chebbie guy and we have fun with that, he could never believe he hired a Ford guy way back when. Having been in many a engine, last I checked they all need the same things to run , Air , Fuel , Spark. Though it is about finding the stuff each one needs to work well. He has also had some record setting mopar stuff as well. Oh and the intake is only a 2.190" so no problem in a 4.160" bore wasn't a issue with a 4.080" bore either.

 Was down at shop last weekend and have the oil mods done in the 428 block tapped for screw in plugs on galleys. Also cleaned up and ready for assembly. Other stuff was working with design for a 2 stroke multi fuel engine, be trying some stuff out on it. He is also waiting for a ProMod Ford to get to the shop once chassis is done. It's BBF with twin turbo's. Will follow up with pics and some info as stuff progresses. Could be some time as I have to many things going on at once. 

 

https://youtu.be/usBJ-lhUeg0?si=mCMYpMo_D6nrP4zT

Cool to see the machining process of a raw block.

Well the plot has thickened yet again ! Had the engine all together and up on the dyno set timing and just checking things over pulled dipstick and found "frothy" oil, was running 6 qts in 7qt pan as a test. Added extra qt to no avail.
 So here is what has happened over many weekends. Ended up finding that pump was pushing oil out at input shaft and "froth" there.
Reworked an old pump and put all back together, oil pressure was down about 20 psi running on drill which made us happier was about 70 psi before on drill. My buddy was running it later in the week as he tries not to offend neighbors with dyno runs after a certain time in evenings. Checked the oil and found water in oil checked her over and came up with manifold leak in one corner. So machined manifold to set more uniform and figured it was fixed. I had went down and spent a day cleaning the gunk out of everything and re assembling. Again he had it running later in week and found water in oil. So took her off the dyno as he had another engine coming in for testing. Made some block off plates for water jacket and found the real culprit a crack in valley above a couple lifter bores. Hairline crack but I decided we aren't attempting any repairs on that block.
 So yesterday went down and disassembled that engine inspecting for anything that could have been damaged, no issues thankfully.
 Loaded my original 428 block up and gauged the bores to see where we were with them. Ordered new pistons to work with the stroker kit for these bores. Once they arrive can finish machine this block and get it all back together.
 It's been an interesting time with all of this.

I had a 390 block that was cracked there. It did not show up on pressure test. could idle it no water in oil but as soon as i steped on it there was water in the oil
Discovered the crack when i was grinding on the block, the grinding dust formed a line along the crack like magnafluxing